Explorer Rearend

golf4283

Active Member
May 30, 2003
1,253
1
39
Orland Park, Illinois
Ok, so I have my rear-end and I am going to take it to the shop to have it cut down and the perches moved for use in my 1966 coupe. Could someone who has done the swap or knows about it tell me how much to cut off which side and how far to put the perches in order for it to fit. I know D.Hearne that you did this swap. If you could give me some help here that would be great becuase it would be easier to tell the people that will do the work what I want exactly than have them guess at it.
 
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The Explorer rear I narrowed went into my 89 Ranger. Just measure the distance from center to center between the spring perches on your Stang ( I think they're 43" but not sure) If you're gonna just narrow the one side then the other needs to be exactly the same in dimensions. Also make sure the Explorer rear will be wide enough after narrowing 4" ( I assume you want the pinion centered) to mount the spring perches the distance they need to be apart to fit your Stang. The spring perch's angle also needs to match your Stangs rear too, to keep the pinion angle correct. Some guys who do narrowed rears will also build into the pinion angle to compensate for its movement when the gas is nailed. If the guy who does yours does it like the guy who did mine, you're gonna need both axles there so he can fit them.
 
Well I thought I read somewhere that since the pinion is offcentered then I could just shorten one side and it will line up correctly?? I also thought that the explorer rear-end was 2 inches longer than what I need so I just cut 2 inches off of one of the sides. I will have to look around some more.
 
The pinion is 4" to the right of center.
The left axle is 3" longer than the right axle. Cutting 3" off of the long side will still leave the pinion 1" to the right.

Bring both axles that you intend to use so it can be mocked up.

Note: Expy axles on left, and Fox Mustang axles on right.
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I'd like to try the same thing. The hardest part for me seems to be finding a shop that will shorten the one side of the housing. The places I've checked with all want upwards of $200. They won't just shorten one side. They "require" straightening the housing (even if it doesn't need it), and welding on 9" ends. This would also reuire me to have 9" axles shortened to work in it ( another additional cost). Then, weld the spring perches in the Mustang location.
 
golf4283 said:
Im not going to use currie anyways. I am probably going to be going to check out Strange because its only about an hour away from my house. whereas currie is like 5 states away from my house. Just easier :banana:

Did you do this yet? I got a quote for $50 to shorten the one side. I'm assuming it won't cost much more to move the spring perches.
 
I had a versailles 9" rearend w/disc brakes. It would have cost me over $1200 to finish it. Parts, such as rotors, pads and calipers are not readilly available and are very expensive when you can find them. It cost nearly $500 for a 9" center section. The emergency brake setup is allso a PITA.

You can buy an explorer 8.8" rear with 31 spline axles, trac-loc, 3.73 or 4.10 gears and disc brakes for $250-$400 and sometimes less, depending on your location. They made a billion of these things so parts are easy to find and inexspensive.

I'm going to see if this rearend will work out ok without shortening it. If not, I already have the short axle and it will only cost about $50 to shorten.

I know an 8.8" isn't as strong as a 9", but I don't think I will see enough power to brake the 8.8" and I'm not running slicks.
 
I had an Explorer rear narrowed for my Ranger. Cost me $100 for the rear. Had 3.73's, 31 splined axles, trac-loc. Drum brakes. Had it narrowed both sides to 52" axle to axle. New Strange 31 splined axles w/9" ends.New Summit girdle cover. Cost me altogether $700.