Here is a question that I didn't see raised:
What was Ford's thinking behind putting a 55mm MAF sensor on a 60mm throttle bodied motor? How about the 94/95 70mm MAFS?
What is the actual flow capacity of the 55mm and 94/95 70mm MAFS?
Per the Ford Racing catalog:
If the MAF meter is not large enough, it will become a restriction in the intake path and will limit the overall horsepower output that the engine is capable of. The MAF meter’s calibration is equally important. If you are using a different fuel injector than the engine was originally equipped with, the computer has no way of knowing this. By introducing a properly calibrated MAF meter matched to your injectors, the computer can be ‘tricked’ into thinking that the engine is receiving less air. If properly calibrated, this will cause the computer to generate a smaller injector pulse width, allowing the larger injectors to function properly throughout the entire RPM range. The potential down-side to this method is that on Ford electronics, the PCM schedules spark advance as a function of (among other things) engine speed and engine load. Engine load is defi ned as the mass of air entering a given cylinder divided by the mass of air that can fit in the cylinder, and is calculated directly from the MAF signal. If the MAF sensor is “tricked” into thinking the engine is receiving less air, then load will be artificially low. Since required spark advance typically decreases as load increases, this “tricked” MAF will result in additional spark advance being scheduled, which can result in spark knock.
Be aware that the MAF meter houses the single most important sensor in a Ford fuel injection system! The engine’s air/fuel ratio and spark advance are primarily determined by the computer from the input received by the MAF meter. This is why it is of the utmost importance that there are no vacuum leaks present in a MAF-based EFI system.
There are several ways to “trick” the MAF meter. The fi rst method is to change the MAF meter’s voltage output by manipulating the electronics of the meter. For EEC IV electronics, this can be an extremely accurate way to calibrate a meter, since the meter’s “curve” can be precisely targeted to refl ect the needs of the new application. A second method is to manipulate the signal from the meter by mechanically changing the amount of air that is permitted to pass by the filament of the MAF meter by installing a different size ‘sampling tube’ or restricting the fl ow through the tube with a screw. While this method can be effective, and can work quite well at wide open throttle, it is frequently the source of idle and low-speed drivability concerns. Another source of idle and low-speed drivability issues is using a meter that has far too much capacity for the application. For example, don’t use a meter good to 750 HP if you only
plan on making 200 HP. The low-flow resolution of the high horsepower meter will not be as good as a meter designed for a 200 HP application, and issues can result that are impossible to tune around.
There is also a method of using a mass air meter that has not been calibrated at all. However, these meters will usually require the use of an aftermarket “chip” or “flash” to work properly. Using an “off-the-shelf” or “mail order” computer chip is discouraged with these types of mass air meters. If you do choose this type of meter, it is strongly advised that you have the overall combination tuned on a dyno while monitoring the air/fuel ratio. Provided this is performed by a competent tuner, this is the best method and will result in the best part-throttle drivability and idle. Additionally, before tuning on a dyno, you should BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the ground circuits for the EFI system are in pristine condition. Otherwise, you are merely tuning around a problem, and a tune that works well one day, can be substantially different if the ground signal varies. You can actually have a tune that works properly when tuned ‘around’ a poor ground, and it is then possible to make it perform poorly by simply correcting the ground signal! It can’t be overstated that prior to the vehicle being tuned in any way, all vacuum leaks, electrical issues, etc., need to be resolved. Fixing them before you go to the dyno will always be cheaper than paying for dyno time while you’re wrenching on your car.
As a general rule of thumb, the following mass air meters will support the corresponding horsepower:
MASS AIR METER Horsepower Level
55mm (Stock 88-93 Mustang) 275 HP
70mm (Stock 94-95 Mustang) 350 HP
80mm (Stock Ford) 425 HP
90mm (M-12579-54) 540 HP
What was Ford's thinking behind putting a 55mm MAF sensor on a 60mm throttle bodied motor? How about the 94/95 70mm MAFS?
What is the actual flow capacity of the 55mm and 94/95 70mm MAFS?
Per the Ford Racing catalog:
If the MAF meter is not large enough, it will become a restriction in the intake path and will limit the overall horsepower output that the engine is capable of. The MAF meter’s calibration is equally important. If you are using a different fuel injector than the engine was originally equipped with, the computer has no way of knowing this. By introducing a properly calibrated MAF meter matched to your injectors, the computer can be ‘tricked’ into thinking that the engine is receiving less air. If properly calibrated, this will cause the computer to generate a smaller injector pulse width, allowing the larger injectors to function properly throughout the entire RPM range. The potential down-side to this method is that on Ford electronics, the PCM schedules spark advance as a function of (among other things) engine speed and engine load. Engine load is defi ned as the mass of air entering a given cylinder divided by the mass of air that can fit in the cylinder, and is calculated directly from the MAF signal. If the MAF sensor is “tricked” into thinking the engine is receiving less air, then load will be artificially low. Since required spark advance typically decreases as load increases, this “tricked” MAF will result in additional spark advance being scheduled, which can result in spark knock.
Be aware that the MAF meter houses the single most important sensor in a Ford fuel injection system! The engine’s air/fuel ratio and spark advance are primarily determined by the computer from the input received by the MAF meter. This is why it is of the utmost importance that there are no vacuum leaks present in a MAF-based EFI system.
There are several ways to “trick” the MAF meter. The fi rst method is to change the MAF meter’s voltage output by manipulating the electronics of the meter. For EEC IV electronics, this can be an extremely accurate way to calibrate a meter, since the meter’s “curve” can be precisely targeted to refl ect the needs of the new application. A second method is to manipulate the signal from the meter by mechanically changing the amount of air that is permitted to pass by the filament of the MAF meter by installing a different size ‘sampling tube’ or restricting the fl ow through the tube with a screw. While this method can be effective, and can work quite well at wide open throttle, it is frequently the source of idle and low-speed drivability concerns. Another source of idle and low-speed drivability issues is using a meter that has far too much capacity for the application. For example, don’t use a meter good to 750 HP if you only
plan on making 200 HP. The low-flow resolution of the high horsepower meter will not be as good as a meter designed for a 200 HP application, and issues can result that are impossible to tune around.
There is also a method of using a mass air meter that has not been calibrated at all. However, these meters will usually require the use of an aftermarket “chip” or “flash” to work properly. Using an “off-the-shelf” or “mail order” computer chip is discouraged with these types of mass air meters. If you do choose this type of meter, it is strongly advised that you have the overall combination tuned on a dyno while monitoring the air/fuel ratio. Provided this is performed by a competent tuner, this is the best method and will result in the best part-throttle drivability and idle. Additionally, before tuning on a dyno, you should BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the ground circuits for the EFI system are in pristine condition. Otherwise, you are merely tuning around a problem, and a tune that works well one day, can be substantially different if the ground signal varies. You can actually have a tune that works properly when tuned ‘around’ a poor ground, and it is then possible to make it perform poorly by simply correcting the ground signal! It can’t be overstated that prior to the vehicle being tuned in any way, all vacuum leaks, electrical issues, etc., need to be resolved. Fixing them before you go to the dyno will always be cheaper than paying for dyno time while you’re wrenching on your car.
As a general rule of thumb, the following mass air meters will support the corresponding horsepower:
MASS AIR METER Horsepower Level
55mm (Stock 88-93 Mustang) 275 HP
70mm (Stock 94-95 Mustang) 350 HP
80mm (Stock Ford) 425 HP
90mm (M-12579-54) 540 HP