figured out why my engine was knocking!

My Crane Cobra 1.7's look pretty good...got em for $50 too! :)

Of course, they are still sitting on my desk...but my desk looks faster now! :)

Parts like that always look better on your desk because they are so pretty. It's hard to cover them up and get them all oily. :D I had a Spec Stage 1 clutch sitting on my desk along with the zinc plated polyurethane motor mounts. They sat there about 2 weeks before I installed them.
 
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So 300-600 for a good set of rockers is worth 10-15HP? So now a 5.0L Mustang can have 235-240HP vs. 225? It might be reeeally fast after that!!!

He never said the motor was stock. you are right that on a stock motor roller rockers dont make a difference, but you can see pretty clearly in the picture that he has aluminum heads and stud mount rockers so the awesome stamped steel stuff isnt really an option here.

To say that they all are junk is just rediculous, its like anything else you get what you pay for, and i bet if you had a comp, trick flow harland sharp, etc... do that, the company would warranttee the part or at least figure out why it broke. Some times its installer error
 
He never said the motor was stock. you are right that on a stock motor roller rockers dont make a difference, but you can see pretty clearly in the picture that he has aluminum heads and stud mount rockers so the awesome stamped steel stuff isnt really an option here.

To say that they all are junk is just rediculous, its like anything else you get what you pay for, and i bet if you had a comp, trick flow harland sharp, etc... do that, the company would warranttee the part or at least figure out why it broke. Some times its installer error

Even with a built upper half RR's will still only net the same amount of HP. Risking one of these popping off just isn't worth it to me. I'd put the money else where.
 
So 300-600 for a good set of rockers is worth 10-15HP?

Um... yes! Definitely worth it to me. Your range is off. You can pay $170 for the cheap stuff, and you can pay $1000+ for the Jesel top-o-the-line stuff. Although, only the rockers I just purchased actually cost me $600. Valvetrain stability, reliability, and reduced wear, in addition to the hp gain in my case makes it absolutely worth it. My engine currently revs to 7k rpm, and one day may well rev to 9k.

People pay $100 for pullies that yield 5-10 hp and they're pretty about that purchase. Some pay $500+ for top of the line long-tube headers & mid-pipe when when a ratty pair of flo-tech headers would cost $350 less. They may only get 5-10 more hp out of that difference, plus the confidence that they have quality parts. I'm sure those people would be equally happy to spend the same money on a quality valve train.

So now a 5.0L Mustang can have 235-240HP vs. 225? It might be reeeally fast after that!!!

Everything adds up. 10hp in the valve train, 8 hp pullies, 5 hp CAI, 15 hp headers, etc, etc... can make a big difference in a race and in the fun of modifying your car. I'm sorry you don't approve, but roller rockers are a great way to improve performance.

You're wrong in thinking that just because a cheap pair of pro-form rockers broke, that makes the stockers best. That's not even close to accurate.

Chris
 
I am not an expert but I believe valve train geomerty is pretty important in a motor. They may only net a few HP I am sure less friction will greatly prolong the life of your engine. 300 bucks may be worth it to help your high reving motor last longer.
 
I said that because this is not the first thread where I've seen RR's fall off and/or break. Who was the guy who built the crazy red hatch LX that was all tubbed with a huge motor? I thought I saw a thread of his where one of his broke too. Not sure on the brand of his RR's but it just seems to happen too often. And...I doubt that member went cheap on that purchase cause his car had lots of time and money in it.
 
Your logic dosent make much sense, theres way more of a chance to break a valve or beat the seats up if your stock stamped steel rocker's geometry is way off and not controlling the valve the way it should be. This is a first for me seeing a rocker break, and personally, i took my old 302 with FRPP rockers on it to the moon and back(i saw the tach coming down at over 7500 so id guess i was over 8k), and those rockers were all fine. If your rocker breaks before a pushrod will bend, then you bought junk rockers. I had pushrods in that motor that were bent in 2 different directions
 
Yeah, I'm trying to find magazine articles to support the power that they make, and I can't! The HP difference between rockers shown in magazine usually compares one type of roller rocker to others, like pedestal vs. stud vs. shaft. I'm not seeing articles showing stock stamped rockers vs. rollers. You're right, though about power. There doesn't seem to be the gain that I had in mind.

Nevertheless, you can damn well bet, I'm not going to chance my high rpm valvetrain with stock parts. From what I understand, the stock stamped rockers will flex and will not control the valve well with aggressive ramp rates or under high spring pressure.

Chris
 
anything over .500 lift really should get roller rockers. after that you get start getting too far away from the center of the valve stem with the contact pattern, and in some cases i have seen teh patten completely on the edge. then there is how much spring pressure you run, the main body of the stock rocker is plenty strong the issue is. will the pushrod pad hold it? how long till the pedestal wears out?

but to the origional poster if you want a cheap rocker that is tough as hell try out some prw stainless rockers. http//www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=14957&CtgID=14947

if you want a high quality try out lunati voodoo. i bought a set and i am very impressed with quality, sturdyness and precision of these things.
CNC-Motorsports.com is your resource for High Quality, Hi-Performance auto parts from industry names you trust. Lunati Voodoo® Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms, Ford (260-351W) 1.7 ratio 3/8, set of 16

i have also used a set of harland sharps the are a good quality rocker. midgrade in my book. i also bought a set of proforms and sent them right back.

on a scale of one to ten i rate them as follows

proform - 0
prw - 5
harland sharp -7
lunati -9
jesel -10
 
I said that because this is not the first thread where I've seen RR's fall off and/or break. Who was the guy who built the crazy red hatch LX that was all tubbed with a huge motor? I thought I saw a thread of his where one of his broke too. Not sure on the brand of his RR's but it just seems to happen too often. And...I doubt that member went cheap on that purchase cause his car had lots of time and money in it.

My twin turbo 383 has RR's on it after many rebuilds and never had an issue
 
just curious why the other parts were loose. How many miles on the set-up, and what were you doing with the car prior to breakage? Were you the one who checked your valvetrain geometery? Just wondering about proper pushrod length etc. Be sure to confirm it when you buy a new set.
 
just curious why the other parts were loose. How many miles on the set-up, and what were you doing with the car prior to breakage? Were you the one who checked your valvetrain geometery? Just wondering about proper pushrod length etc. Be sure to confirm it when you buy a new set.

im not sure why the spider was loose?? and I had about 5k miles on it, i drove the car daily but i do drive it hard though. and my uncle helped me w the valve train geometery. everything was good. just the spider came loose!? but other than that everything should b ok w a new set of rr!