First dyno today. Disappointed

Only 231rwh and 253rwtq. I know that translates into 300 flywheel hp but still I thought it would be more for a 306 roller block, Edelbrock RPM heads, Weiand Stealth intake, 650 Holley DP, 2.5" Magnaflow.
I do have PS and AC though.

Oh well, time to start saving for that 418 stroker crate motor I've always wanted.
 
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manual or automatic? could the carb isn't right for the application if it's an auto. double pumpers and auto trannies don't get along too well. cam specs would also be good. are you running headers or stock manifolds? i'm assuming headers since have e'brock heads but you never know. what kind of ignition system do you have. it may be that there is nothing wrong with the engine combo you have but the tune could be WAY off. also do you have any idea what your compression ratio is? how big are the combustion chambers on the heads, 60 or 64 cc? are you running flat top or dished pistons?

too many questions to really make any suggestions, however if you are running a stock 5.0 roller cam the numbers you posted are pretty damn respectable actually and about what you would expect to get from a head swap actually probaby a bit more as most of the 5.0 engines were rated in the 205-225hp range, so 75hp from what basically amounts to head swap is pretty damn good, assuming a stock or even a mild cam.
 
I think you need to be asking another question: does the car perform the way you want it to? Don't get so hung up on numbers that you lose sight of the big picture. The numbers you quoted are nothing to sneeze at for a street driver and you aren't stressing anything to the limit to do it. Remember the late '80's 5.0 Mustangs? They were only rated at 215-225 rwhp and they are a blast to drive! They likely made 15-20 hp less than their rating on top of that! Do you find yourself running out of power on a daily basis? If not, don't worry about it.
 
Don't get so hung up on numbers man. The only ones that matter are at the bottom of the timeslip. I dynoed a whopping 275 and ran 12.1's on motor. And now I only dynoed 369 to the ground, but smoke the tires @ any mph.:shrug:
I've never had any problems with a DP and auto. That is all I have ever run.
 
This brings up another point, tuning. I think it was Hot Rod mag a while back that got something like 40+ hp just from jacking around with the timing, jetting, etc. Maximixe what you've got before worrying about tossing your whole combo for another non-optimized setup.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll try to answer all your questions.

coolblue65 said:
What cam do you have?
I don't know. The PO claimed it was a Comp cam of some sort but he could have been lying.

bnickel said:
manual or automatic? are you running headers or stock manifolds? what kind of ignition system do you have.also do you have any idea what your compression ratio is? how big are the combustion chambers on the heads, 60 or 64 cc? are you running flat top or dished pistons?
if you are running a stock 5.0 roller cam the numbers you posted are pretty damn respectable actually and about what you would expect to get from a head swap actually probaby a bit more as most of the 5.0 engines were rated in the 205-225hp range, so 75hp from what basically amounts to head swap is pretty damn good, assuming a stock or even a mild cam.
Thanks. A few folks have said it's still better than a stock 5.0
I have long tube headers. I don't know what the compression ratio is. The PO claimed flat top pistons. It has Pertronix ignition


zookeeper said:
I think you need to be asking another question: does the car perform the way you want it to? Don't get so hung up on numbers that you lose sight of the big picture. The numbers you quoted are nothing to sneeze at for a street driver and you aren't stressing anything to the limit to do it. Remember the late '80's 5.0 Mustangs? They were only rated at 215-225 rwhp and they are a blast to drive! They likely made 15-20 hp less than their rating on top of that! Do you find yourself running out of power on a daily basis? If not, don't worry about it.
It's a great street car, but I would like to perform well at the track. I'm going for the first time this Saturday


10secgoal said:
Don't get so hung up on numbers man. The only ones that matter are at the bottom of the timeslip. I dynoed a whopping 275 and ran 12.1's on motor. And now I only dynoed 369 to the ground, but smoke the tires @ any mph.:shrug:
I've never had any problems with a DP and auto. That is all I have ever run.
I'd be happy if I ran 12's. Everyone thinks I'll run 14's.


Dark Knight said:
Something isnt right, I put 263/295 down in my vert with AFR 165's, stock cam with 1.7's and a plain old EGR performer and 600 holley..

Do any tuning? A/F ratio? Timing? Auto trans?
T5. I'm going to have the engine performance tuned. When it hit 5000 rpm on the dyno white smoke came out the exhaust. The technician said it was running way too rich.


zookeeper said:
This brings up another point, tuning. I think it was Hot Rod mag a while back that got something like 40+ hp just from jacking around with the timing, jetting, etc. Maximixe what you've got before worrying about tossing your whole combo for another non-optimized setup.
The dyno tech said the same thing about possibly getting as much as 50hp more just in tuning.

Here is the dyno sheet. The second pull was done imediately afterwards and was worse I was told because the engine was getting hot.
 
it could also be that the valve springs are either not right for the cam you have or are just flat worn out. i've seen a valve spring change add more than 50hp before, of course that was at higher RPM but still. i still have a feeling that the cam is either stock or too mild for what you're wanting.

at some point i'd recommend pulling the cam and identifying it, check the valve springs out and possibly just change them, especially if you find the cam is stock and decide to replace it.

here is what i would do for a start at least:

carb work, re-jet and possibly change squirters, power valves, etc. to optimize the carb for your app.

either re-curve distributor and add some kind of ignition box, MSD, Mallory, etc. or just ditch the dizzy and replace with an MSD unit and a 6a box.

change the oil to a low weight synthetic, like Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Valvoline, etc. 10w-30, same for trans and rear diff.

still don't know if you are running headers or not. if not i strongly suggest adding a set. either long tubes or a mid length shorty. i have hedman mid length shorties and really like them.


i still think your cam is going to be a limiting factor. it doesn't sound as though it has anything more than a stock cam or possibly a very mild RV style cam. consider changing the cam for something more along the lines of an X-303 cam or similar.
 
bnickel said:
i still think your cam is going to be a limiting factor. it doesn't sound as though it has anything more than a stock cam or possibly a very mild RV style cam. consider changing the cam for something more along the lines of an X-303 cam or similar.

by stock cam do you mean the E303?
 
"I'd be happy if I ran 12's. Everyone thinks I'll run 14's"


Let us know how it does at the track...I'm sure you could get 13's as your making more power than my 289 and it runs high 13's w/ stock heads..Traction will be key, do you have slicks or drag radials?
 
You should be able to get more out of the engine through timing and carb tuning but it should be a pretty good runner as it is. I would bet you will be in the 13's easily. 10secgoal is right on: The #'s that really matter are waiting for you at the dragstrip.