FMX to AOD on a 351c

351carlo

New Member
Mar 9, 2004
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Philadelphia
Hey guys,

Well the trans is more than likely shot. Now I need to go with an AOD Transmission, just so I can throw some 3.73's or 4.10's in my rear. I also want something that shifts hard, and will withstand the RPMs. I'm gonna get the transmission built for me, but what else do I need to bolt this up? What kind of flex plate is necessary? Driveshaft length gonna bolt up? I know about the TV cable/rod. I just need to know in addition to the transmission, how much more it will cost for this swap.

THANKS Carlo
 
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since you already have the fmx you're in pretty good shape. the flexplate should work as is, and the fmx crosmember can be modified to work. basically you just have to get the tv cable and possibly the shifter linkage, but i have heard of people geeting the factory linkage to work. you'll probably have do some mods on the cooler lines and you might have to get a different yoke for aod.
 
Did it last fall with 3.89 gears. VROOM BABY!!

My advice would be to NOT modify your crossmember. Get an after market piece and sleep well knowing it is built well. I do not know that the FMX flexplate will work... if it does, I wasted that $100. If you do get an aftermarket, be sure you get the right (28oz) balance. Also, your stock FMX starter will work, so dont go buy an AOD one.

I spent probably $2600 including everything. I went with an Art Carr AOD. PLEASE do NOT skimp on the transmission. I have seen others do this, and it ends up costing you 4 times as much.
 
The AOD transmission is about 3/4 in longer than the FMX and when I ordered my new trans yoke from NPD it was actually 3/4 in. shorter than the original yoke so no shaft needed at this time. The shifter linkage worked out with minor modifacation and one trans cooling line needed to be modified. As for the trans mount I am modifying my old one because that is one good piece of steel there and still should be strong enough. Don't forget to get longer 7/16 bolts for the block because the other one's are too short.

I forgot to add that I did reuse my 28OZ. FMX flexplate.
 
Whoa

2600 is WAY out of my budget. Luckily when it comes to the transmission, a friend builds them, so my transmission will cost roughly 500, built to withstand whatever I can put into it.

I really need to know all the additional costs involved, that's my biggest factor.

Thanks guys.
 
351carlo said:
2600 is WAY out of my budget. Luckily when it comes to the transmission, a friend builds them, so my transmission will cost roughly 500, built to withstand whatever I can put into it.

I really need to know all the additional costs involved, that's my biggest factor.

Thanks guys.
Additional costs will probably come out to be $500 if you can use your current driveshaft.
 
Hold on... don't you need some sort of bellhousing adaptor to work with a Cleveland? A windsor should be no problem.. but will the AOD bellhousing bolt up to the cleveland block?
 
70_Nitrous_Eater said:
Hold on... don't you need some sort of bellhousing adaptor to work with a Cleveland? A windsor should be no problem.. but will the AOD bellhousing bolt up to the cleveland block?

Silly Nitrous_Eater... of course not! :)

351C shares everything smallblock in how it mounts to the car and transmission.
 
Nitrous_Eater:
Lots and lots of external parts/accessories swap between all the SBFs, Ws, and Cs. Even the 300 I6.
That's what makes Fords so much fun to do engine swaps (trans swaps too). It's a piece of cake.
Dave
 
The input shaft will be one piece. I'm not going to go into details on why it will only run me 500 for this, but that's all it's costing me. I definitely understand why you would be concerned, but I am highly assured it will be a great build, and yet only for around 500. The guy building it is a friend of the family, with a few favors owed.

So anyway, what stall converter would you guys suggest?

70 351c 2v with
Edelbrock 600
Hooker 1 3/4
Patriot Sidepipes

Soon to have
1.6 Rollers
Hydraulic cam, most likely 272
port and polish on the heads
flat top pistons
block .20 over

Just a sidenote, any idea what kinda power I would be laying down? I've got a friend in a lightly modified fox body (91) who wants to run when I'm done. When I put my 3.73's in the rear, I don't see myself losing.

Thanks all.
 
70_Nitrous_Eater said:
So then a T5 behind a cleveland would be no harder to do than behind a 351W as well?
I have never done it, but all the parts that would be used on a 28 oz 302 or 351w would interchange with the Cleveland perfectly.
I used to run 351c flywheel/clutch/etc... on my 302 in order to get the 11" clutch. The bellhousing is larger, but has the same bolt pattern and uses the same starter, it just spaces it out further to work with the bigger flywheel.
Dave