Alright as many of you know, an SN95's axles are 3/4 of an inch longer than fox length axles. So, this puts the brake location out farther. Most people just go out and buy special bracket kits to make fox length axles work with SN brakes. Well I decided not to do this. Here's what I did: I started off with no brakes on the rear end because that's how I bought it. Hopefully you guys can get yourself this far without assistance, because if you're going to tackle this, you should be able to simply remove calipers and bridges. 1) Remove the 4 nuts/bolts holding each of the brackets onto the axle housing. I used a 9/16 on both sides of the bracket. 2) Using your preferred cutting tool (mine was a sawzall but I'm sure a cut off wheel would be good), cut off the front top bolt hole of both brackets. By front I mean the bolt hole that would be facing toward the front of the car if it were still bolted up. Such as right here. This was the factory right hand side bracket. The one cut in this picture below shows how the factory LEFT hand side will look when cut 3) Take one of your newly cut brackets and put it on the OPPOSITE side of the rear end. This part you must pay attention to. I did not flip or rotate the bracket. Simply grab the bracket, take it from it's original location, and move it to the INSIDE of the flange on the opposite side of the rear end. If done correctly (no flipping or rotating) the FLAT side of the bracket will be touching flat against the INSIDE of the flange (stock went outside). And the grooved side will be facing in toward the differential instead of away from it when in stock configuration. Factory right hand side bracket will now be the left hand side and the factory left hand side will be the right hand side bracket. 4) After you have installed the brackets correctly, it's time to put your axles in. Slide them in, put your C clips in, then slide the axles back out to where they stop on the C clips. Then you need to put the pin in the carrier and bolt it back in. Put the rotors on and put at least one lug nut on it to bring the rotor flat against the axle, this will help when putting the caliper back on. 5) Now you're ready to bolt the caliper bridges in place. I ended up having to use a washer between the bridge and the bracket because the bridge was almost coming in contact with the rotor. I don't know how thick these washers were so you'll just have to play around with a few until you get them right. 6) Put your brake pads on and then the calipers. Make sure everything is bolted down securely and make sure your axles still spin. I went ahead and took everything back apart and painted the bridges and calipers And here's a picture of how the grooved side of the bracket faces toward the differential instead of away from it in the stock configuration. If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, post 'em! I'd be glad to hear them.