Ok so the fuel lines are almost 40 years old....guess it's time to change them! I'm hoping that might be what's causing the overheating and pinging at cruising RPM's. The car was originally the "C" code engine (1967) with the 2 bbl. carb so im assuming its got pretty pathetic fuel lines on it? Should i get the pre-bent ones? Where did you guys get yours? Stainless Steel the way to go? Any tricks on removing/installing them? Any ideas would be awesome! Thanks guys!
Fuel line question
- Thread starter Beef97
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Dirty or clogged fuel lines do not cause overheating or pingig. Check the timing, flush the radiator, change the thermostat, and use antifreeze. Also make sure the water pump is working as it should too. Once a water pump went bad on me because the propeller had completely rusted to dust but the pump never leaked.
If you do decide to replace your lines, I've been researching it for my 67. It seems the way to go is the late 67 lines which are larger (3/8") and supposedly have a better routing for safety. You could also get a roll of line from Jegs or someplace and route your own but I doubt that line is as strong; probably more susceptible to road debris.
I'd replace the line and the entire tank immediately if they are original. I replaced a fuel tank over 12 years ago was was full of so much crud/gunk that I could not beleive the car ran well at all.
IIRC, the I6 was the smallest factory line at 5/16ths, the V8s got the big 3/8 line.
I have a stock fuel line for a 67 with 289 sitting in my garage and I'm about 2.5 hours away from you. It still has the red-plastic covers on both ends, installed then removed. Turns out it was not going to support 400+fwhp so I had to make my own line.
PM me if you are interested.
IIRC, the I6 was the smallest factory line at 5/16ths, the V8s got the big 3/8 line.
I have a stock fuel line for a 67 with 289 sitting in my garage and I'm about 2.5 hours away from you. It still has the red-plastic covers on both ends, installed then removed. Turns out it was not going to support 400+fwhp so I had to make my own line.
PM me if you are interested.
monk302
Founding Member
I bought a 20' roll of 3/8 aluminum from Summitt a few weeks ago and bent it myself. Easily and inexpensively enough done. Check it out.
Ok a couple more questions.....how did you bend it? Just remove the old line and try to bend the new one in the same shape? Did you route it the same way? EVENTUALLY I'm hoping to make somewhere in the 400-450 HP range with a 347 stroker, so would the 3/8 line support that? Does anyone sell pre-bent 1/2" line?? It just seems like such a pain to bend all that line and then try to route it!
Pbum5
Member
monk302 said:
I did the same thing on my 67.. Russell ALum about $25 for a 25' roll..
I could use about 2' of 3/8 line if anyone has any extra??
PM me
Stainless lines are expensive but you won't need to replace them, don't rust, very strong, etc.
1. Put the mechanical pump on ebay, block your hole
2. By an electric pusher ala Holley red/blue (regulate as required)
- this are pusher pumps. I custom made brackets for both of mine
(ones dedicated to NOS) and mounted it just below the tank line exit.
3. Ran my lines down the frame rails and through the trans mount using
a bulkhead fitting, up the back of the firewall where both regulators
are mounted as close to the carb as I could, and then to flex #6 to carb
and flex #4 to NOS Solenoids.
It's tricky with dual exhaust through the rear valance but it worked out sweet. Use A/N fittings....don't even go for that inverted 45 flare of old. Best flare tool for me is the Rigid tool about $100 bucks. (I did all my own 3/8 stainless brake lines in A/N as well so it was worth the investment).
As far as size versus need. 3/8 lines properly motivated is plenty for just about anything you'll run on the street. e.g.
WOT/full power fuel consumption for a beefy street machine will be ~ .5lbs of fuel per Horse Power Per hour. Gasoline weighs in at about 6lbs/gallon. So for a 450HP engine you'll need about 37 Gallons of fuel per hour. A Holley 'Blue' delivers 110 Gallons per hour. at ~ half it's rated pressure of 14 let's guestimate it'll give you half the volume...still leaves 18 gallons/hour of margin ~50% derated from the need..so we could be off as much as 50% and still meet the need.
Besides,
1. Who drives WOT @ full power for an hour.
2. You have a built in capacitor with the float bowl.
1. Put the mechanical pump on ebay, block your hole
2. By an electric pusher ala Holley red/blue (regulate as required)
- this are pusher pumps. I custom made brackets for both of mine
(ones dedicated to NOS) and mounted it just below the tank line exit.
3. Ran my lines down the frame rails and through the trans mount using
a bulkhead fitting, up the back of the firewall where both regulators
are mounted as close to the carb as I could, and then to flex #6 to carb
and flex #4 to NOS Solenoids.
It's tricky with dual exhaust through the rear valance but it worked out sweet. Use A/N fittings....don't even go for that inverted 45 flare of old. Best flare tool for me is the Rigid tool about $100 bucks. (I did all my own 3/8 stainless brake lines in A/N as well so it was worth the investment).
As far as size versus need. 3/8 lines properly motivated is plenty for just about anything you'll run on the street. e.g.
WOT/full power fuel consumption for a beefy street machine will be ~ .5lbs of fuel per Horse Power Per hour. Gasoline weighs in at about 6lbs/gallon. So for a 450HP engine you'll need about 37 Gallons of fuel per hour. A Holley 'Blue' delivers 110 Gallons per hour. at ~ half it's rated pressure of 14 let's guestimate it'll give you half the volume...still leaves 18 gallons/hour of margin ~50% derated from the need..so we could be off as much as 50% and still meet the need.
Besides,
1. Who drives WOT @ full power for an hour.
2. You have a built in capacitor with the float bowl.
Not that I am aware of.
In fact I'm not sure 1/2 inch stainless would even be able to follow the stock routing, you may be able to do it with 5/16th though (it would be a beyotch though).
Regarding the HP/ID sizing requirements...I saw a bunch of conflicting numbers there but in general 5/16th with an electric should handle up to 450, with a carb no more than 400. The 1/2 is a BIG hose and I've even seen it listed as 500+, I'll post some pictures once I get busy again.
In fact I'm not sure 1/2 inch stainless would even be able to follow the stock routing, you may be able to do it with 5/16th though (it would be a beyotch though).
Regarding the HP/ID sizing requirements...I saw a bunch of conflicting numbers there but in general 5/16th with an electric should handle up to 450, with a carb no more than 400. The 1/2 is a BIG hose and I've even seen it listed as 500+, I'll post some pictures once I get busy again.
The 3/8th pre-bent stainless is what I bought and ended up not using. I have amechanical fuel pump and carb, I might look into an electric pump down the road but am not a fan of EFI on my classic. The pre-bent (OEM Style) 3/8ths line was not gonna let me get over the 400fwhp mark, so I left it on the shelf. I'll sell it for 35% of the new price.
