Gauge Install HELP!!

GTn00b

New Member
May 25, 2004
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Independence, MO
I am not mechanically inclined, I'm a computer geek!! I bought an autometer gauge pod, Autometer A/F Ratio, and a Autometer Mech Oil Pressure gauge. Doe's anyone have a how to with pictures? Please help!!!
 
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Hey man, don't sweat it. Computer geeks can do this stuff, just takes a little research. :)

I can't help you with the details of the A/F gauge specifically but I believe they tap into one of the O2 sensors for their signal (they're mostly just a "lightshow" anyways - wideband meters are the way to go, bleh). I'm sure someone else will chime in and be able to tell you exactly what you need to do in order to hook up your A/F gauge.

Now, for the oil pressure gauge, you would need to hook up the sending unit to the factory sending unit location which is located on the oil filter housing. If you look right at your oil filter, the sending unit will be just over on the other side (it's a good idea to do this install during an oil change, makes things pretty convenient).

I don't know of any GT-specific threads that have pictures of an oil pressure gauge installation. However, the link below outlines an install on a 99 Cobra. It should be fairly similar (electric gauges in the write-up, not mechanical)

Bob Cosby's "Aftermarket Gauge & Stereo Install Results/Pics..." Thread


Also, check out this link over on fnsweet for the actual A-pillar install write-up:

A-Pillar Gauge Pod Install

:cheers:

*There are also generic installation instructions available on the autometer.com website (should have also been included with the gauges you purchased).
 
I don't know if computer geeks are that good with plumbing, since that is the talent which is needed to connect up a mechanical oil gauge. :rlaugh:

As mentioned, you need to find your current oil pressure sensor, remove it, find/fabricate/install a pipe "T" into where the sensor was originally attached, connected up the original sensor to one side of the "T", and connect up the new gauge's tube to the other side.
 
Ryan02Stang said:
I also need to know what wire to tap for the A/F gauge. There are a TON of wires on the PCM. What color is the wire you would have to tap into to get an A/F reading?
Ryan, I did a search for A/F gauge here on SN and found a schematic from Autometer for the install. It shows which color wire to splice into on the PCM.....
 
Ryan02Stang said:
So I can splice into any of the following...

(R/LG)
(GY/LB) - I assume this is grey/light blue
(P/LG)

But what are the others??? And do I just need to splice into one of them?

#60 & #94 are for the signal. The harness for the PCM has very faint numbers imprinted on it so you can identify the pin #'s. Don't simply go by the color - it's dark under there and in artificial light (flashlight) you could tap into the wrong color wire. Which could equate to bad for the gauge or PCM.

There are also power and ground wires. There is only ONE wire that will tap into the PCM - that is the signal wire. Nothing else should tap into the PCM. GY = Grey, LB = Light Blue, Y = Yellow.

Jay
 
Ryan02Stang said:
Ok...so i can only tap #60 or #94. I could see the numbers last night...but it seemed they were only on the ouside of the pinout...I guess I will have to look harder tonight. Thanks for your help GTJAY! :nice:

Yep, only #60 or #94 - those are the signal wires from the left and right front O2 sensors. Either one will work. They are on the outside - you just need to count the pins so they correspond to the numbers. Good luck with the install - it's really not too hard - you'll get it! :nice:

BTW - a lot of people will tell you the A/F is just a light show, that is true at part throttle because the PCM is seeking out 14.64:1 A/F. However, I've found after a few dyno runs at WOT that I get a reasonably accurate feel for how rich/lean I'm running. When I was at 12.5:1 I had all but four lights lit up. At 11.5:1 I had all but two. It helps a little bit. Not nearly as good as a wideband, but it'll work in a pinch.

Jay
 
Do you have a multimeter? I opened up the dash and tapped into 12V on the headlight assembly. I believe there are two positive leads. One for the gauge itself and one for the gauge light. The gauge needs to be attached to a "key on" power source and the gauge light needs to be attached to a power source that is on when the headlight knob is pulled.

Use a multimeter to test the wires in the headlight assembly for one that comes on when the knob is pulled. The "key on" source can be found in the fuse box.

Jay