Headers for Stock 5.0

[svtpower]

other stuff

Forget headers on a stock to near stock 5.0. Waste of time.

You would be better off spending that money on something else.

Right now I'd say the 3.27 gears are hurting you the worst so I'd get some 4.10s if I were you with that automatic.

If you really want a "bolt-on" mod, a Tmoss ported lower intake would get my vote. At $120 it's a heck of a deal and performs through the rpms better than a Cobra intake on a stock to near stock 5.0 (no loss of low end torque).

Yeah you have a cold air intake, bigger TB ...bla bla bla but your biggest bottleneck right now is your lower intake.

 

[5.0Droptop]

which ever you get make sure it has a thick solid flange.. the others warp..

I agree, a thick solid one pc flange is the best route. Individual flanges on each tube will let the tubes warp and when you take them off its a pain to get back on.

 

[GTOreturns]

ahh gotcha. but at the track how about if you street the car 90% of the time? just curious don't own an auto.

I'm not sure I understand the question.

Forget headers on a stock to near stock 5.0. Waste of time.

You would be better off spending that money on something else.

Right now I'd say the 3.27 gears are hurting you the worst so I'd get some 4.10s if I were you with that automatic.

If you really want a "bolt-on" mod, a Tmoss ported lower intake would get my vote. At $120 it's a heck of a deal and performs through the rpms better than a Cobra intake on a stock to near stock 5.0 (no loss of low end torque).

Yeah you have a cold air intake, bigger TB ...bla bla bla but your biggest bottleneck right now is your lower intake.

Why r u giving out this bad advice?

I have a ported t-moss intake and it "DOES NOT" pull better then a Cobra. T-Moss himself will tell you the same.

 

[svtpower]

Why r u giving out this bad advice?

I have a ported t-moss intake and it "DOES NOT" pull better then a Cobra. T-Moss himself will tell you the same.

I'm not giving bad advice.

On a daily driven stang, a Tmoss ported lower IS better for low to midrange power (where it matters most on a daily driver). And even if you want to argue about which one is better (they are very close) the price alone should make it an easy choice.

From the FAQ on Tmossporting.com


"All of the people I have ported stock lower intakes for have noticed a significant difference in the usable power band their engines make. 10-15+ horsepower and 20-25 lb-ft is common in a ported stock lower. However, this is NOT a race intake modification. A properly ported stock intake will make more power than a Cobra up to about 4,200-4,500 rpm where its flow potential will take over and it will make more power. HOWEVER, if you look at average power (what matters most) over a usable rpm band, you will find that a properly ported stock intake will make the same average power over a usable stock short block rpm range (1,500-5,600 rpm). Below is a comparison of a ported stock lower vs. a stock Cobra on the same car with no other changes. If the Cobra test had started at 1,600 rpm, you would have a better idea of how much stronger a ported stock lower is than the Cobra in the 1,600 – 3,000 rpm band and the average power of the ported lower would likely have been slightly higher than the Cobra intake over a 1,600-5,600 rpm band"

 

[skunk21]

I'm not sure I understand the question.



Why r u giving out this bad advice?

I have a ported t-moss intake and it "DOES NOT" pull better then a Cobra. T-Moss himself will tell you the same.

I ment is it still a good street gear for someone who doesn't track thier car very often if at all. going by other posts on his topic it seems 4:10's have been the choice for the auto guys.

straight from the T-moss sight a ported stock lower flows 200-220cfms a gt-40 lower(cobra) stock flows 205-210 cfms. so there is a gain until it hits the stock E7's and for $120 bucks it's well worth the gain. I noticed it and when I had my stock E7's ported and valved it improved even more.

 

[GTOreturns]

What ever bro!

T-Moss makes a good intake. The new Cobra's have a lot of problems because there made by China now. An original is a better all around intake.

Being it's an aod a high speed stall would be the best investment you can make rite now!

 

[skunk21]

thanks. I get it. Is 1 1/2 bigger than 1 5/8's? I thought it was smaller than 1 3/4's. I'm going to be specific on what I have now. I have a 2 1/2 X-pipes with no cats and flowmasters. I have K&N filter, 65mm throttle body and EGR, Pro-M 75mm mass air sensor calibrated for stock injectors, msd cap and rotor, ford racing 9mm wires, smog pump delete, and I will advance my timing to possibly 13 to 14 degrees with 93 octane fuel. I now have stock 3.27 gears, stock AOD trans and stock headers. I already filled the stock intake manifold with the most air as possible. Longtubes will be better for stock engine then? Just curious.

The other guys are right about staying with stockers, again I used the 1 1/2 just for discussing to show that there is a loss of low end torque. the only 1 1/2 headers I have seen are jba's and that part # doesn't come up on thier web site anymore, but dont worry about 1 1/2 headers they cost $$. stay away from 1 3/4 rule them out. if you really want headers. 1 5/8( the main stream).

you have an auto, long tubes are out for you, atleast with bbk and probally with others. they fit really tight with 5speeds a nightmare with auto's.

this is getting repetitive.

 

[5.0Droptop]

Stock headers are fine for a mild bolt on stock 302.

 

[Roland69]

I used some BBK part # BBK1515 and like them. I cleaned the port openings on mine with a die grinder to remove alot of excess weld. I only bought them because I heard alot of good about BBK and my stock headers were starting to leak from the collectors rotting away

 

[50specialist]

I used some BBK part # BBK1515 and like them. I cleaned the port openings on mine with a die grinder to remove alot of excess weld. I only bought them because I heard alot of good about BBK and my stock headers were starting to leak from the collectors rotting away

Ok. I'm keeping my stock headers for my mild bolt-on 5.0. So, what do you people think about using seafoam to clean the inside of my valves and injectors for my next oil change? :SNSign:

 

[50specialist]

Forget headers on a stock to near stock 5.0. Waste of time.

You would be better off spending that money on something else.

Right now I'd say the 3.27 gears are hurting you the worst so I'd get some 4.10s if I were you with that automatic.

If you really want a "bolt-on" mod, a Tmoss ported lower intake would get my vote. At $120 it's a heck of a deal and performs through the rpms better than a Cobra intake on a stock to near stock 5.0 (no loss of low end torque).

Yeah you have a cold air intake, bigger TB ...bla bla bla but your biggest bottleneck right now is your lower intake.

I agree on the lower intake part, but I floored my mustang to test it out, and trust me, 3.27's are not as good as 373's or 410's, but it pulls hard. I'm sure I would have been in a worst situation with 2.73's. Replacing the lower intake is a big job, and I don't have the time or the money to do it. I'm not racing it, so if it is already pretty quick, why blow a hundred bucks. It might be slow to speed fanatics out there, but for an average driver like me, its fast. Speed is not the main reason why I wanted that car. I can use my 300 bucks for a new cobra bumper and straight tailpipes, and the other 150 bucks for cobra tail lights. Looks count more if you want to attract hot chicks. Anyways, I'm 18 and the car is under my dad's name. If I keep up bothering him to make it faster, I will piss him off and he will take the car away from me. Then I will be screwed. Once I'm in university and on my own, the car will be under my name, then I can do whatever I want. For now, I got to chill on performance. I'm selling stuff now and then on ebay to get the money for my car.

 

[5.0specialist]

I'm not giving bad advice.

On a daily driven stang, a Tmoss ported lower IS better for low to midrange power (where it matters most on a daily driver). And even if you want to argue about which one is better (they are very close) the price alone should make it an easy choice.

From the FAQ on Tmossporting.com


"All of the people I have ported stock lower intakes for have noticed a significant difference in the usable power band their engines make. 10-15+ horsepower and 20-25 lb-ft is common in a ported stock lower. However, this is NOT a race intake modification. A properly ported stock intake will make more power than a Cobra up to about 4,200-4,500 rpm where its flow potential will take over and it will make more power. HOWEVER, if you look at average power (what matters most) over a usable rpm band, you will find that a properly ported stock intake will make the same average power over a usable stock short block rpm range (1,500-5,600 rpm). Below is a comparison of a ported stock lower vs. a stock Cobra on the same car with no other changes. If the Cobra test had started at 1,600 rpm, you would have a better idea of how much stronger a ported stock lower is than the Cobra in the 1,600 – 3,000 rpm band and the average power of the ported lower would likely have been slightly higher than the Cobra intake over a 1,600-5,600 rpm band"

My experience supports this statement. I actually started this thread a decade ago when I was 18 when my dad just bought a 93' gt convertible for me as a high school graduation gift. Boy, I was just a little grasshopper in the 5.0 world. LOL My 91' stock top-end 5.0 with a home ported stock lower intake and stock 60mm throttle body has better acceleration than my stock 93' with an Explorer intake and 65mm throttle body. I've learned from my mistakes. Sometimes less is more. IMO I had to resurface this thread since it has good info for beginners in the fox EFI 5.0 world.

 

[5.0specialist]

My 91' came with BBK 1 5/8 unequal length chrome headers. I bought a set of stock 5.0 mustang headers and I'm going to be installing those in place of the BBK's also. I've read of stock headed mustangs running stronger with the stock headers vs aftermarket 1 5/8 shorties. What a difference experience/gained wisdom makes. Back when I was 18, I've always thought that bigger was better when it came to exhaust and intake mods on stock headed 5.0's. Didn't know much about the importance of velocity. I'll be posting the results when I complete the swap.

 

[General karthief]

Wow, resurrecting your own 10yr old thread, thats a new one, well maybe. Your right about it being good info and an excellent discussion. I'm a little old school myself, I like long tube headers but thats just me. Look into having those stock headers ceramic coated, they will look less ummmm, ugly?

 

[Boostedpimp]

The only thing I'd use stock headers for would be flower pots..

 

[General karthief]

I tried, they make lousy flower pots.

 

[5.0specialist]

I tried, they make lousy flower pots.

Might make a decent chia pet though. All joking aside, I'm probably going to sand them down and clean them up well with oven cleaner, followed by application of silver barbeque/stove/engine paint.

 

[cleanLX]

What are you trying to do?
1/4 mile ET?
or?
Debate about running around under 3000rpm with a daily commuter?

My 91' came with BBK 1 5/8 unequal length chrome headers. I bought a set of stock 5.0 mustang headers and I'm going to be installing those in place of the BBK's also. I've read of stock headed mustangs running stronger with the stock headers vs aftermarket 1 5/8 shorties. What a difference experience/gained wisdom makes. Back when I was 18, I've always thought that bigger was better when it came to exhaust and intake mods on stock headed 5.0's. Didn't know much about the importance of velocity. I'll be posting the results when I complete the swap.

Not sure where you are readin, or what the parameters/definitions of "better" are, but it sounds like the kind of thing "seat of the pants warriors" would regurgitate to justify why they have not swapped out the factory logs.

 

[General karthief]

Ok, let me give you some personal experience, 92 lx 5.0 convertible, stock with 325 or 327 what ever gear they put in verts. STOCK as a stove, ran good but would not over power the tires on take off, maybe a little if you power braked it off the line, I put some 1 5/8 ceramic coated headers and an off road h pipe on it only because I already had the h pipe and the headers looked better than the stock stuff on there.
after the switch I could boil the tires from a dead stop idle for about 20 feet, I could get more when power braked off the line, so draw your own conclusions.
the stock 5.0 factory headers are better than the old log style and maybe only slightly better that the 271hp 289 manifolds they got on stuff like the gt350 and Shelby cars. There is a writeup on velocity and header size and length someplace around here, too lazy tonight to look it up.

 

[5.0specialist]

Ok, let me give you some personal experience, 92 lx 5.0 convertible, stock with 325 or 327 what ever gear they put in verts. STOCK as a stove, ran good but would not over power the tires on take off, maybe a little if you power braked it off the line, I put some 1 5/8 ceramic coated headers and an off road h pipe on it only because I already had the h pipe and the headers looked better than the stock stuff on there.
after the switch I could boil the tires from a dead stop idle for about 20 feet, I could get more when power braked off the line, so draw your own conclusions.
the stock 5.0 factory headers are better than the old log style and maybe only slightly better that the 271hp 289 manifolds they got on stuff like the gt350 and Shelby cars. There is a writeup on velocity and header size and length someplace around here, too lazy tonight to look it up.

My AOD vert with the factory 2.73's and a large catalytic converter brick lodged into the inlet of one of the mufflers could chirp the tires at half throttle off the line. The catback still had the stock 2.25 inch exhaust pipes also. The stock lower intake was ported by my dad too. Now, it has a 2.5 inch catback with Jones Max Flow mufflers (magnaflow copies) with no brick or any other obstruction. If I accelerate a bit too quickly from a dead stop, I would chirp the tires off the line easily. The car now has 3.73 gears too. There was a guy who posted on stangnet mentioning that a friend of his had an aod car with 3.73's and bolt-ons that ran a 13.42 at best. He swapped to 1 5/8 headers and ran 13.6-13.7 range. When he swapped back the stock headers, he began running 13.4's again. I guess it depends on the health of the engine. I just think that maybe the larger diameter headers were slowing down the exhaust velocity at the puny stock E7 ports.