Headlight issues

My headlamps burnt out this past weekend and I'm trying to figure out why.
My troubles started a while ago when my headlights would turn off while driving, especially if I was on the brakes at a light.

I have a Shelby taillight conversion and the tail/brake lights were also very dim. I figured that the additional 4 taillamp bulbs were creating too large a draw of current resulting in dim bulbs and a temporary break in power to the headlamps.

To reduce the draw from the taillights, I first installed a brake light relay to reduce the draw through the brake light switch, and wired the headlights through another switch to reduce the load through the headlight switch. While this helped, it didn't eliminate the problems.

I finally installed LED taillight panels and a Painless headlight relay kit. This seemed to do the trick and both my headlights and taillights have been much brighter.

That is until my headlights went out on my last weekend. Fortunately, I was able to use my driving lights to get myself off the road. I had had my highbeams on and found that I was able to get the low beams to work, or at least one.

When I got home I did some checking. Power to the headlight sockets seems to be normal or at least consistant. I get 12V to each socket lower lead w/ lowbeams and 12V to one of the side leads w/ high beams. Checking resistance of the bulbs shows open resistance between all three prongs on one bulb and also on the the other bulb except for one. This seems to make sense that that is the only working low beam bulb.

So my headlamps went bad. Easy enough to replace, but how do I figure out why it happened and prevent it from happening again? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Headlight s blinking off is the classic symptom of the headlight switch going bad. It contains an automatic self-resetting circuit breaker.

Testing the voltage with the engine not running is a total waste of time. 12V should only be read with the engine off. With the engine running, at say 2000 rpm, you should be getting something like 14.2V (depending on outdoor temp). If your voltage regulator is not operating, it might climb to 15V or more, and this would cause your lamps to burn out. Current draw at high voltage would also cause the headlight switch to blink off.

So, what's the voltage at 2000 rpm?
 
Ok, yes, the voltage readings I've taken were with the engine off. I'll try it with it running tonight and see what it reads. Higher voltage with higher rpms makes sense in terms of blowing the bulbs but I don't use the original headlight switch, I have an aux switch w/ in-line fuse. I'll also check the voltage coming out of my regulator when the engine is running and see what that reads. Thanks for the info, this helps a lot!
 
Your problem could be the auxilary switch. I would ditch it use the OEM switch.

After you get the issue sorted out, I reccomend adding headlight relays to keep the load off of the new switch. The headlight switch and factory wiring were never intended to carry the load of Halogen bulbs, let alone the brighter ones available now. It will also supply the lights with more power and make them brighter. I also suggest Sylvania Xtravision XV6024, they are the same wattage as the newer capsule bulbs.

I have this.

RJM Injection Tech Headlight Harness

You can also make your own.

Brighter Headlights
 
2+2: Didn't get a chance to check running voltage tonight. Should be able tomorrow.

GT65: Those are the exact headlights I bought. I already installed a headlight relay which helped w/ the issues in the past. Since I have that, I may try to return the switch to the OEM unit as well.
 
Finally got around to testing running headlight voltage. Low beams showed 14.8V at ~2k and high beams showed about 14.4V at ~2k. Seems to be normal enough. Wonder if voltage/current issues before fixing tail lights and adding headlight relay may have somewhat damaged headlights to the point where they failed. Otherwise I'm still not sure what could have caused the problem.