heat and sound insulation

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I just finished putting 160 sq ft of dynamat type deadener in the 67;floors ,roof,door panels,inner wheel housings and trunk as well as firewall,next will come 1/4 inch closed cell neoprene foam. I will add more to the tunnel and below the rear seat above the diff and mufflers. I am trying to quiet it as much as possible and weight is not so much a concern in this restomod. The lizard skin should probably be quicker than Dynamat to install.

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entdoc- I have Dynamat in my garage ready to go, but I have a question... What order do I go in? Do I put dynamat in before everything?

When dealing with bolt holes for seats/seatbelts/etc, do I make a cutout for the bolt hole only or for the entire contact point? (I hope that makes sense...)
 
dynamat in first.remember this layer is for deadening the resonance of the metal panels and provide some sound and heat insulation. I just put the stuff in and cut around the bolt holes. no larger than the hole itself.
 
I just finished putting 160 sq ft of dynamat type deadener in the 67;floors ,roof,door panels,inner wheel housings and trunk as well as firewall,next will come 1/4 inch closed cell neoprene foam. I will add more to the tunnel and below the rear seat above the diff and mufflers. I am trying to quiet it as much as possible and weight is not so much a concern in this restomod. The lizard skin should probably be quicker than Dynamat to install.

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Isn't Dynamat only sound deadning material, what are you doing for heat insulation?
 

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I recently removed all of my interior and undercarriage parts (trans, rear axle, etc.) to repair a small rust area. I removed all rust and spayed a rust inhibitor and couple of coats of epoxy paint both from eastwood. I then sprayed about 5 coats of second skin audio. I did this inside and to the undercarriage. I finished things off in the interior with 2 layers of a foil backed heat shield from jcwhitney. The old stang doesn't sound like tin can anymore.
 
I would be careful with dynamat. At least the most basic level of it. The stuff will dry out. Not from exposure to high heat so much. Its the exposure to 150+ degree heat for a long period of time. If you have a black car and park outside for an 8 hour day at work, yer dynamat is going to turn into an asphal potatoe chip. I'll dig up the link for this.....

All of the asphalt mats failed at almost the same point. Both eDead mats, FatMat, Brown Bread and B-Quiet Extreme all melted. The asphalt ran out into a black puddle of goo and the foil fell down. None of them could survive several hours at 160ºF. The Dynamat Original failed differently than the aluminum foil skinned mats. It actually does have a PSA layer that held it in place longer than the others. It never melted, but instead cooked into a brown crumbly thing, but really, who cares? Dynamat Original may have been the bees knees back when people used that phrase, but its day is past. It is expensive and by Dynamic Controls own highly suspect performance testing, doesn't perform worth a damn.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/heat/
 
QuietCar

I was going to try a product called QuietCar throughout the passenger compartment floor boards, interior firewall, kickpanels, and doors. I used their QuietRock sheetrock in my home and it worked well.

I don't want to use anything that can trap moisture against the floor boards (even if they get wet). I'm not looking for maximum heat reduction either.

http://www.quietcar.net/
 
I was going to try a product called QuietCar throughout the passenger compartment floor boards, interior firewall, kickpanels, and doors. I used their QuietRock sheetrock in my home and it worked well.

I don't want to use anything that can trap moisture against the floor boards (even if they get wet). I'm not looking for maximum heat reduction either.

http://www.quietcar.net/

I used this product in my car and I am very happy with the results. There are a few photos of the finished install in my CarDomain pages. I would strongly recommend that you spray it on and not brush it. The thicker the coat the better results, I found that when I brushed it on I tended to make the coat very thin. Spraying it on went pretty quick as well. Check when you order it, there are two colors, black and gray, once dry not much difference in color.
 
I used this product in my car and I am very happy with the results. There are a few photos of the finished install in my CarDomain pages. I would strongly recommend that you spray it on and not brush it. The thicker the coat the better results, I found that when I brushed it on I tended to make the coat very thin. Spraying it on went pretty quick as well. Check when you order it, there are two colors, black and gray, once dry not much difference in color.

Did you apply it to the fender wells and underside also? I am interested in the product for the interior and the underside. just wondering how it holds up on hte underside?
 
No, I only applies it to interior panels and the wheel wells and lower interior quarter panels in the trunk. I used Eastwood rubberized undercoating in the wheel wells of the rear. I have not done the front fender areas yet, but will use the Eastwood product there when I do.