Sound deadener/heat insulator, what's YOUR experience.
- Thread starter Monkeybutt2000
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I put Dynomat in my GT and the dump truck floors, Junk Pyle (GT) is covered from toe board to taillights, the truck has the floor covered from toe board to rear wall (97 Super Duty regular cab diesel) they are quieter but I noticed the temp of the floor the most, the carpet was no longer hot when touched in both vehicles. I wish I'd done the roof on both also.
Dynamat in the Coupe and Thunderbird from firewall to under the back seat and both roof skins. Massive difference in the tin can sound when closing doors and blocks a fare amount of the exhaust which makes the stereos sound better.
2014 F150 had Stinger from firewall to up the rear of the cab and the doors. Worked really well and was done for road noise and stereo.
2020 F150 is getting Noico Black 80 mil from the fire wall to up the rear wall and on the doors. Will follow up with Noico Red 120 mil on the doors. Again for road noise but mostly the eventual stereo install.
2014 F150 had Stinger from firewall to up the rear of the cab and the doors. Worked really well and was done for road noise and stereo.
2020 F150 is getting Noico Black 80 mil from the fire wall to up the rear wall and on the doors. Will follow up with Noico Red 120 mil on the doors. Again for road noise but mostly the eventual stereo install.
Kilmat gets my vote here. This is the first I’ve used, so nothing to compare it to, but……… install was super easy, price was right, and it definitely provided noise and heat reduction that was very noticeable.
I used to cook from the exhaust before this, and now it’s very comfortable to drive.
I used to cook from the exhaust before this, and now it’s very comfortable to drive.
ThinBlue502
Mustang Master
I did my car, floor, firewall, roof, doors, trunk, dash, center console. I have a serious sound system though, and I had zero concern about added weight. It made a huge difference. Road noise was reduced, random vibration noises nearly stopped, also a very noticeable reduction on the amount of heat I would feel through the trans tunnel on a hot day.
If you’re on a tight budget, Home Depot carries a product called “Frost King” duct insulation. Do a google search on using it for sound deadening. About $20 a roll of 1’ X 15’. I’ve used it and if you double layer it, it’s just as effective as Dynamat.
If you’re on a tight budget, Home Depot carries a product called “Frost King” duct insulation. Do a google search on using it for sound deadening. About $20 a roll of 1’ X 15’. I’ve used it and if you double layer it, it’s just as effective as Dynamat.
Kilmat all over the floor, hatch, roof, doors and quarters. Also installed noico foam on the trans tunnel, more for heat than sound.
Made a huge difference especially with the windows up. It sounds like the exhaust note it outside the car, and not inside.
You don’t need 100% coverage, but that’s how I installed mine.
Made a huge difference especially with the windows up. It sounds like the exhaust note it outside the car, and not inside.
You don’t need 100% coverage, but that’s how I installed mine.
rednotch
Founding Member
Isn't kill Matt and noico the same parent Russian company? Looked into them ages ago to see if it was butyl vs asphalt most of the no name Amazon stuff was shipping, before they became popular. Havent checked to see how prices are these days with the Ukraine deal going on but used to be pretty damn cheap vs other brands
Good question, if you put Kilmat in the search bar on ebay, it'll also pull up Noico and Siless. They all look the same.
Yes, kilmat and noico are under the same company umbrella. Might be another one in there too
I bought mine pre-Ukraine, but looking on Amazon it seems prices are up on that stuff. Also seems to be less selection. I bought both the 50mil and 80mil kilmat, and some noico 150mil red foam. I only see 80mil kilmat and don’t see the noico red foam at all.
I bought mine pre-Ukraine, but looking on Amazon it seems prices are up on that stuff. Also seems to be less selection. I bought both the 50mil and 80mil kilmat, and some noico 150mil red foam. I only see 80mil kilmat and don’t see the noico red foam at all.
I used the 80mil kilmat, then a layer of 1/8" dense closed cell foam on top.
It makes a big difference in addition to just the kilmat. I've done the same on a few trucks, one being a 1999 7.3 power stroke and that was quieter inside than my 2016 6.7 power stroke(until you opened the windows)
The fox got full floor, doors, rear quarters and roof (closed cell just on the floor and hatch floor)
It makes a big difference in addition to just the kilmat. I've done the same on a few trucks, one being a 1999 7.3 power stroke and that was quieter inside than my 2016 6.7 power stroke(until you opened the windows)
The fox got full floor, doors, rear quarters and roof (closed cell just on the floor and hatch floor)
Attachments
I used cheap amazon sound and heat deadener. Worked great. It's basically like butyl with a foil backer
rednotch
Founding Member
You guys still running the stock jute backing on the oem carpets with this stuff or you using the acc mass back stuff.
Mass back in the hatch. Stock carpet with all the jute in the main cabin.
I’d say the two or so boxes of kilmat and foam added maybe 50 pounds. Worth it in my opinion for a cruiser type setup.
I’d say the two or so boxes of kilmat and foam added maybe 50 pounds. Worth it in my opinion for a cruiser type setup.
ACC carpet with standard backing in the Coupe. The mass backing is better than the jute backing but by no means does it kill the noise like sound deadener that adheres to the sheet metal of the car. IMO for the weight it adds I would rather install sound deadener as it will do a better job and weigh about the same. For those that are just looking for a little more noise cancelling and do not want to go through the process of installing the sound deadener then they are ACC's target crowd.
Willybill32
But at least it's tight!
I used this stuff. Used to be on Amazon but no longer.
noico.info
Noico Red 150 mil (4 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sq.m)
Noico Red 150 mil (4 mm) closed-cell polyethylene foam is the best alternative to rubber foam. Liner Car Heat and Sound Insulation
noico.info
Sound deadening is equal parts art and science. The last rework I did on an SN95 resulted in a 4db(!) drop at cruise, and there was still a lot more work to be done. Even with the best products, poor implementation will yield garbage results and waste a ton of money.
Concentrate on these areas:
Air voids. This is a great place for sound to echo/travel. When you stuff a void, you're trying to add resistance to convert wave lengths to heat (exactly like how a muffler works). Both SN's and foxes have HUGE air voids behind the 1/4 window plastic. I stuff those voids with denim insulation as it's flexible, easy to cut/stuff. Fill the
out of those voids - you want to take up all the air space. Home Depot used to carry a brand called Ultra Touch, and they had these little space filler rolls (R6.7) that were perfect for this. I do the same thing with door panels - stuff all voids with denim or use hard cell foam (trim to fit) if I can glue it permanently.
Air gaps. Make sure all your door/trunk rubbers are good. Make sure you're not leaking air around the mirrors. Seal your shifter boot (the rubber one) to the tunnel. In the doors, make sure your vapor barrier is 100% sealed. Hell, add a second one. Overcoming wind noise is HUGE for sound control.
Panel resonance. So this is a big one. And when you see people covering the entire floors/panels with elastomer, they are wasting $$ and adding weight that doesn't help their cause. I use this (Vibro black - made in USA) as it's the heaviest by volume that I've found and the adhesive is fantastic. With this stuff, all you're trying to do is lower a panels resonant frequency - that's it. Take a small rubber mallet, tap sheet metal panels, and when you get one that vibrates, add some of that Vibro. You only need 20-30% panel coverage to change the resonant freq. This applies to floors, inside of doors (including backside of door skins), roof, any flat sheet metal. Pull the inner fenders and line the firewall - road noise vibrations enter here.
Sound blockage - I didn't cover this because it's really invasive and takes a lot of patience/work to set it up right or else you're wasting your time/$$/adding massive weight while still having sound leaks. So unless you're starting with a gutted car, don't bother going down this path.
There is a ton of opportunity under the back seat/spare tire well. Another small trick is the use 2 different length mufflers (same brand) as they will have slightly different resonate freqs and that will help with drone (constructive interference). Ford did this from the factory. If you can reduce the amount of sound you need to suppress, it makes the interior work more effective.
Concentrate on these areas:
- Panel fit
- Air voids
- Air gaps
- Panel resonance
Air voids. This is a great place for sound to echo/travel. When you stuff a void, you're trying to add resistance to convert wave lengths to heat (exactly like how a muffler works). Both SN's and foxes have HUGE air voids behind the 1/4 window plastic. I stuff those voids with denim insulation as it's flexible, easy to cut/stuff. Fill the
out of those voids - you want to take up all the air space. Home Depot used to carry a brand called Ultra Touch, and they had these little space filler rolls (R6.7) that were perfect for this. I do the same thing with door panels - stuff all voids with denim or use hard cell foam (trim to fit) if I can glue it permanently.Air gaps. Make sure all your door/trunk rubbers are good. Make sure you're not leaking air around the mirrors. Seal your shifter boot (the rubber one) to the tunnel. In the doors, make sure your vapor barrier is 100% sealed. Hell, add a second one. Overcoming wind noise is HUGE for sound control.
Panel resonance. So this is a big one. And when you see people covering the entire floors/panels with elastomer, they are wasting $$ and adding weight that doesn't help their cause. I use this (Vibro black - made in USA) as it's the heaviest by volume that I've found and the adhesive is fantastic. With this stuff, all you're trying to do is lower a panels resonant frequency - that's it. Take a small rubber mallet, tap sheet metal panels, and when you get one that vibrates, add some of that Vibro. You only need 20-30% panel coverage to change the resonant freq. This applies to floors, inside of doors (including backside of door skins), roof, any flat sheet metal. Pull the inner fenders and line the firewall - road noise vibrations enter here.
Sound blockage - I didn't cover this because it's really invasive and takes a lot of patience/work to set it up right or else you're wasting your time/$$/adding massive weight while still having sound leaks. So unless you're starting with a gutted car, don't bother going down this path.
There is a ton of opportunity under the back seat/spare tire well. Another small trick is the use 2 different length mufflers (same brand) as they will have slightly different resonate freqs and that will help with drone (constructive interference). Ford did this from the factory. If you can reduce the amount of sound you need to suppress, it makes the interior work more effective.
Basically closed cell foam helps block sound waves, particularly lower frequency waves.... A quick Google will get you all science type sh*t
This is the stuff I use
https://www.foambymail.com/neoprene-rubber.html
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
I used noico 80mm and loosely copied the Quiet Ride Solution's kit (offered by LMR) installation instructions. I then added mass backed carpet. It is certainly quieter. I didn't take decibel measurements or anything so that's the only info I can offer lol.
I wish I did DB readings. It was certainly noticeable. Heat radiation from the tran tunnel was cut way down, but I attribute that to the foam.
Also, it’s been mentioned a few times but you do not need 100% coverage. However, I did find myself defaulting to that during my install.
Also, it’s been mentioned a few times but you do not need 100% coverage. However, I did find myself defaulting to that during my install.
