Sound deadener/heat insulator, what's YOUR experience.

[2000xp8]

Do you guys stick this stuff to the factory sound deadener or spend hours removing it?
While i don't know if i will do the front half of the car, the rear seats and back i could do fairly easy.
If it makes they exhaust quieter i'm all for it.
I probably shouldn't have read this post, the last thing i need is more ideas to make the car quieter and more comfortable.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My factory sound deadener was firmly affixed. I saw no reason to spend hours heating and scraping. I went over it.

There were a few spots where it was loose, dry and flaking up. I removed that stuff, but for the most part I went over 90% of it.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Removed all of it. The aftermarket materials are so superior to the factory stuff and it works better when coupled directly to the metal. At least in my years of installing it for a living that is what I found.

It’s all personal preference but removing the factory stuff is pretty easy with a heat gun and a bondo blade.

 

[bwest]

@Monkeybutt2000 - lot of good info here, but to bring the point back home, you have a vert, so there is only so much you can do with the limitations of that top. For sound entering, spend your time around the back seat/trunk (b/c that's where the mufflers are). Do the doors b/c they echo a ton. And if you have a baller stereo, will def help how the door speakers perform.

If heat is your issue (these cars run HOT AF inside), heat wrap you mid pipe (add silicone spray to seal it from water). Use some Thermo-tec reflective barrier and wrap the underside of the trans tunnel, above the cats and pending how tight the mufflers fit with the body, the muffler cavity too. You want to keep the sheet metal from getting hot and radiating in.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Cats??? Holy crap, didn’t know anyone ran them anymore. Ha ha ha!!! Gotta love the middle of the country.

 

[2000xp8]

As I look at the products, if dynamat is actually the best at sound deadening and blocking heat, it doesn't seem like enough extra money to justify using more than one different product.
Am a wrong? Seems like it will cost $200 more (maybe less depending on what the secondary heat blocking stuff costs). But it's not like I'm doing it twice or selling the car.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Dynomat is the same Butyl rubber with Alum skin as most of the other offerings out there. It's expensive as hell, and I don't know why.

Some of the dynomat pre-cut kits are almost $1K. I don't see the value there.


I think i spent $100 on materials plus a cutting/rolling kit.

 

[2000xp8]

Dynomat is the same Butyl rubber with Alum skin as most of the other offerings out there. It's expensive as hell, and I don't know why.

Some of the dynomat pre-cut kits are almost $1K. I don't see the value there.


I think i spent $100 on materials plus a cutting/rolling kit.

I spent the good part of the night reading about various materials.
One thing i think is for sure, no matter what video, article or comparison the vast majority of the time, dynamat comes out as the top choice.
Many others seem to use different adhesives or some type of asphalt which worries me because it gets hot here and the last thing i want to do is smell asphalt.

I don't really see kilmat for sale anywhere, 90% of the links goto amazon where it's not available.
Most other companies that are either same or close appear to be about $80 for 36sqft.
If i'm not mistaken, dynamat is $180 for 36sqft.
Not sure how much is in the car total. But if it's an extra $200, i can live with that if the product is superior.

Now those pre cut sets? Those prices are nuts.
Then again, if it goes fast and easy and time is at a premium, i can see the value for some people.
I'm guessing the weight savings of not loading up the entire car may matter to people too. Assuming it's just as effective without covering every inch.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I don't really see kilmat for sale anywhere, 90% of the links goto amazon where it's not available.

Unfortunately I think the war in Ukraine is affecting the distribution as Kilmat/Noico is russian. It used to be all over Amazon, but no longer. Probably what you see are vendors just selling off old stock and then running dry.

But Kilmat and Dynamat are both Butyl and not asphalt. However since it's hard to get Kilmat now, that point is moot i guess.

 

[2000xp8]

Unfortunately I think the war in Ukraine is affecting the distribution as Kilmat/Noico is russian. It used to be all over Amazon, but no longer. Probably what you see are vendors just selling off old stock and then running dry.

But Kilmat and Dynamat are both Butyl and not asphalt. However since it's hard to get Kilmat now, that point is moot i guess.

Just to be clear, i'm open to use either.
But if i'm reading the specs and reviews correctly, dynamat is slightly thicker and blocks more heat.

I see that you used a second product on the trans tunnel, i would hope if i used the dynamat 2 different products wouldn't be necessary.

While i'm not really interested in pulling up the entire carpet currently, i won't rule it out.
Especially if i do the hatch and rear seat area and i find that it works as good as everyone suggests.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

Went with the Siless 80 mil at 36sq ft. My car has no tailpipes,so gonna put turndowns and install this mainly behind front seats back.

 

[2000xp8]

Went with the Siless 80 mil at 36sq ft. My car has no tailpipes,so gonna put turndowns and install this mainly behind front seats back.

Why not put tail pipes on? I can't even imagine the sound a vert makes with turn downs. My head hurts just thinking about it.

On another note, what do you guys do with this stuff where interior panels sit? It doesn't cause all kinds of interior panel alignment issues?

 

[Mustang5L5]

On another note, what do you guys do with this stuff where interior panels sit? It doesn't cause all kinds of interior panel alignment issues?

Not really. The console was a bit tight around the trans tunnel, but I got it in without much fuss. In the hatch, i put the material over the screw holes in the floor so i had to poke around to find them, but was able to reuse most of them. I did make a few new ones, but for the most part all of the interior went back together pretty much the same.

I did buy some small foam strip with adhesive back, and used that on the inside joint of where all the plastics contacted and rubbed each other. That also did a good job of cutting down on the cheap plastic squeak sounds over bumps and such.

 

[Rdub6]

I did buy some small foam strip with adhesive back, and used that on the inside joint of where all the plastics contacted and rubbed each other. That also did a good job of cutting down on the cheap plastic squeak sounds over bumps and such.

I have to try some of that on my glove box door. Seems no matter how I adjust it, I can’t get rid of the rattle.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

Well that was fast.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

Why not put tail pipes on? I can't even imagine the sound a vert makes with turn downs. My head hurts just thinking about it.

On another note, what do you guys do with this stuff where interior panels sit? It doesn't cause all kinds of interior panel alignment issues?

It's in the works,but not this year. And,I don't even have turndowns yet,lol.

 

[Mustang5L5]

,I don'r even have turndowns yet,lol.

Oh man, that’s even worse. You are basically just resonating off the gas tank.

 

[Willybill32]

Basically closed cell foam helps block sound waves, particularly lower frequency waves.... A quick Google will get you all science type sh*t


This is the stuff I use
https://www.foambymail.com/neoprene-rubber.html

@Kid wita 5oh, thank you!

Bill

 

[Kornnut]

If you’re looking more for heat insulation I would suggest something with ceramic in the insulation ( lizard skin or db skin).

 

[Bullitt347]

I have never owned a car where sound or heat was a "problem" that needed solving.