Anybody know where i can get a bung to thread my ect sensor into soft lines. I cant use the hard lines that run from the front of the intake to the back because they are so close to the fire wall that they kink and i have no heat. Thanks
Heater hose question
- Thread starter blue66tang
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TheBocSez
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You can use a brass fitting from the hardware store and thread it into where the metal pipe used to connect to the lower intake, then screw the ECT into that, or if you are bypassing the heater core, you can use a hose from autozone that fits perfect, Ill get the part number in a few but it looks like this when installed.
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TheBocSez
New Member
Hose part number is S-4354, runs about 9.00 at Autozone, just trim about 1" off of one end and its perfect.
Im not trying to bypass the heater core. I am trying to get fluid to it. Since i put this engine into a cj7 the steel pipe is too close to the firewall and it kinks the hose. So im just going to get rid of the steal pipe altogether. Then i am just going to run soft lines from the front of the engine. One from the water pump, and one where one of the steel lines go into the lower intake. So i need a place to still put my sensor. So basicaly i am running all soft lines from teh engine to the heater core.
TheBocSez
New Member
If I am picturing the routing correctly for the coolant, you could run 1 rubber line from the upper nipple on the water pump directly to the heater core. That would supply warm coolant to the core.
Run a 2nd rubber line from the heater core to the lower nipple on the water pump, that would be a return line.
If you have a regular SBF thermostat housing you could block the fitting on the housing with a rubber cap and hose clamp.
Put the adapter and ECT into the hole in the front passenger side of the lower intake, where I beleive you planned on running your other hose.
If Im not mistaken, the coolant would normally run back through the lower metal tube into the lower intake, and back through the thermostat and housing.
Run a 2nd rubber line from the heater core to the lower nipple on the water pump, that would be a return line.
If you have a regular SBF thermostat housing you could block the fitting on the housing with a rubber cap and hose clamp.
Put the adapter and ECT into the hole in the front passenger side of the lower intake, where I beleive you planned on running your other hose.
If Im not mistaken, the coolant would normally run back through the lower metal tube into the lower intake, and back through the thermostat and housing.
I dont think i want to do that, because then it gets rid of the bypass. It would still have a bypass sort of, it would just be running threw my heater core. I still dotn think that would work properly because if i was runnin my heater the ect sensor would be reading the cooler line comeing from the heater core. The heater core is like a mini radiator. I basicaly want to run my lines just like they do on older cars, such as my 66 mustang. Wich is the exact same routing as our 5.0's but without the hard lines that run down next to the valve covers. I know i have seen the adaptor i need. it basicaly alows me to get rid of the hard line and yet still thread in the sensor.
Thanks
Thanks
Am I mistaken, or aren't both lines coming from the side of the water pump basically output lines? The return flow portion coming from the heater core is what goes down into the intake manifold where the ECT sensor threads in. If you go clamping a loop onto both of those water pump nipples, you're not going to get any flow because it doesn't have anywhere to go - it's all pressure and no return flow.
On mine, I have one nipple blocked off with a rubber heater hose plug clamped into place, and the other is that stupid little 90* elbow (y'know, the one that always eventually splits and causes headaches) that goes to the thermostat housing. So, I figure both of those lines are pressure lines, basically ... unless, of course, they're both return lines...?
On mine, I have one nipple blocked off with a rubber heater hose plug clamped into place, and the other is that stupid little 90* elbow (y'know, the one that always eventually splits and causes headaches) that goes to the thermostat housing. So, I figure both of those lines are pressure lines, basically ... unless, of course, they're both return lines...?
Yeah i guess both nipples on the water pump would be output lines wouldnt they.
anyway. So nobody knows where i can get a fitting taht alows me to thread in a ect into a soft line. I know i have seen them somewhere.
anyway. So nobody knows where i can get a fitting taht alows me to thread in a ect into a soft line. I know i have seen them somewhere.
Have you tried raiding the plumbing section of an Ace Hardware or Home Depot? They've got lots of funky connections, and it's all NPT-sized stuff. You might be able to rig something up with a combination of goods outta there, though I can't suggest exactly what sizes and types you could use, right off hand.
I had to use a combination of NPT sizes and SAE/Metric threads for fittings when I deleted my heater pipe and had to plug the leftover fittings and adapt the ECT directly into the intake. You might spend a couple of hours bouncing back and forth from hardware stores to auto parts places to get the right combo of stuff, but I'm sure the answer lies somewhere more towards the hardware stores.
I had to use a combination of NPT sizes and SAE/Metric threads for fittings when I deleted my heater pipe and had to plug the leftover fittings and adapt the ECT directly into the intake. You might spend a couple of hours bouncing back and forth from hardware stores to auto parts places to get the right combo of stuff, but I'm sure the answer lies somewhere more towards the hardware stores.
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