Help, '68 289 died, neen info on crate motors, and installation!!!

[red302]

Help, '68 289 died, need info on crate motors, and installation!!!

The 289 in my '68 fastback just jumped timing, and it's not pretty. I'm going to put it in a corner just because it's the original engine, but a 302 crate motor is going in. It's not a race car, but street performance / cruiser. Looking at the Ford Racing GT40 crate engine. Is it a good way to go, or what would you recommend? Also what do I need to do to install it in my '68 with the stock accesories? Will the alt. and power steering brackets bolt up? How about balancer and the flexplate for the C4 trans. I think it comes with a 50 oz. That will need to be changed also, correct? Anyone who's put one of these engines in a classic Mustang, please tell me what I need to get the job done. All help will be appreciated, because this car was supposed to be finished to drive to the WFC next month, and it was, untill today. Would still like to make it happen if I can. ....Thanks.

 

[CraigMBA]

You need:

A crate engine
A new flexplate w/ 50 oz unbalance
A new damper w/50 oz unbalance and a pattern that bolts up to your accessories
A timing cover with a manual fuel pump drive (your old one will work)
A oil pan (your old one will work)
A oil pump pickup (your old one will work)
A new oil pan gasket
Intake manifold gaskets
A distributor with a steel gear that is compatable with your ignition
A fuel pump eccentric (your old one will work)
A dowel or a soft plug to fill the new crate engine oil dispstick
A water pump that is compatable with your timing cover (your old one will work)

I think that's it. I'm sure somebody will remind me if I forgot something. Ten years ago was a long time.

I'd be inclined to call Coast High and order a 331 stroker long block, or even a 302 or whatever you decide. It will cost you the same money and you'll have more power and less work (you only have to take one engine apart, not two). They'll sell you an engine that has the proper balance for your existing flexplate and damper, saving you $500 or so dollars.

Good luck.

 

[red302]

Thanks Craig. I'll give Coast a call and see what they have to say. DSS is on the list also. I thought the '68 was a 28 oz. Wouldn't I need a 28 oz balancer with the flexplate for the auto, and the crate motor comes with a 50 and a flywheel for a manual? Any one else have any suggestions? I'm up in the air at this point, but need to make a decision quick.

 

[1966conv]

You can get a 50 oz flexplate that will mate to the transmission. Transmission won't care what the imbalance is as long as the flexplate is the correct size to fit the bellhousing and has the correct number of teeth.

The 50 oz damper though will need the correct bolt pattern for your crank pulley, or you will need a set of aftermarket (such as March) pulleys for your accessories.

 

[CraigMBA]

Your early stuff is 28 oz. The crate motor comes with 50oz stuff.

So on top of the price of the crate motor, you have to buy a 50oz damper and flexplate OR just get a 28 oz crank from the get go.

When I did mine, I built an engine. What I should of done was change the crank to a 28oz crank and had that balanced with my 28oz SFI damper and flywheel. Back then it would of saved me about $600 and a bunch of time. The damper and flywheel are less now, but so is the crank.

 

[CraigMBA]

One of my customers put one of those crate engines into one of his customers '68 California Special. He ordered the automatic version, but had to change the flexplate anyway because the one on the crate engine is for an AOD or won't line up with a C-4 or some nonsense. But I remember he said he had to change the flexplate.

 

[iskwezm]

Some of the builders do nothing more then assemble engines, its not a science and I even heard that they outsource the building to another builder(saw it first hand)

My buddy has a CHP 347 and it runs pretty good, but its basically just matched parts that make it run so well.

look at the Roush crate engines, they have a better warrenty then most.

 

[red302]

After looking at several of the crate motors, it looks like most would have to be modified to some extent to drop in the '68. Finally after a few calls to DSS Racing, I have a 331 stroker long block on the way that I can button up and should drop into the Fastback and bolt up to all the things that I need it to! This should turn it into a real FASTback. hehe Thanks for your replies guys, I can always count on the Stangnet family to help when I need some info.

 

[67topless]

Hey red302, how did this DSS crate engine work out for you? You happy with what you got from DSS and do you feel as though it was worth it financially?

Many thanks,

Scott

 

[D.Hearne]

Most stroker small blocks are balanced to 28 oz/in, so that's not an issue in replacing a 289. Only other point is the clutch pivot hole in the lower driver's side rear of the block. Some automatic trans cars use this hole too for shifter and/or kickdown linkage.

 

[red302]

Hey red302, how did this DSS crate engine work out for you? You happy with what you got from DSS and do you feel as though it was worth it financially?

Many thanks,

Scott

Worked out great! I have about 2,000 miles on the 331 so far and it runs very well. Nice lope at idle, but with a 2600 stall converter it will sit at a stop light in gear, and come out of the hole pretty strong. Nice and torquey down low, but really gets with the program about 3,500 rpm. Just what I wanted for the '68. Nice street motor. I bougt the long block from them and took it from there. A little more money than some crate motors, but considering the quality and strength of the DSS internal parts, well worth the extra cash. The guys at DSS are great to work with too, very helpful.