I have a 95 GT. What is the most economical way to get 300 HP and remain naturally aspirated? Your help and input is appreciated.
Who makes Thumper and are those numbers based on everything else being stock?About the most affordable setup N/A is the Thumper head combo. It will run you about a grand. Thumper claims 300 or better at the flywheel. With some tweaking you might be able to get 300rwhp.
I don't believe there are any thinner head gaskets than the stock ones, and the AC might pull 7hp when it's running, but nothing when it isn't. If HP is your goal, don't bother with removing the AC.
Kurt
Thanks a lot, I live about 30 min. from Orange Park so that is really convenient. As far as intakes go, is one any better than the other?The Cobra uses GT40 heads. Then there are GT40P heads that came on some Ford Explorers. The GT40s flow a little better than the E7TE heads that come on at GT. The P heads off the Explorers flow the best. Once you start getting into port work though, the differences between them aren't that great. Thumper Performance is out of Orange Park Florida. He sets up stock E7 heads to work well. He used to post on this website.
http://www.hunterstyle.com/thumper/combos.php
I would go with Combo 3 with the Trick Flow camshaft. For $1090, you can't beat it. Combo that up with a good Cobra or Explorer, or GT40 intake. You can get anyone of those for $200 or less used on ebay or Craigslist all day long. Just steer clear of the Chinese knock offs.
Kurt
What and where are the silencers you are referring to?Not so eco build, buy the trickflow top end kit.
Eco Build:
Custom Grind cam is preferred, but you could be extra cheap and get an alphabet cam and hope for the best (E and B are the favorites) 15
Gt40 heads 25 hp
remove silencers and toss together some form of a k and N filter with cai 5-10 hp
GT40 intake 15hp
Undrivepulleys 5 hp
Throttle body (found on the GT40) 2-3 hp
Remove smog powered items 7hp
Remove A/C 7hp
Stock Hp 215
That adds upto 297 horsepower at the flywheel. These are all estimates, you can always make more or less horsepower with the heads, they're generally good upto 40 horsepower depending on the port work and condition of the heads.
The heads would run 200, with port work 500 to 600 (It's always close to 600, but varies everywhere)
intake and throttle body around 150, probably less
under drive pulleys 150
Silencer removal, free.
Remove a/c and smog, new belt I believe, 10 dollars?
Cam 200
Total cost for what 'could' get you to 300 at the fly (there's more guess work in sourced parts): 1110
That's compared to the trickflow top end kit which would put you at 350 at the flywheel (as claimed by sellers) which costs about 2400, it isn't that expensive.
if you come up short on the horsepower, you could always add in longtube headers and x pipe for about another 400 and that should get you there. Or could throw that money at a tune instead. It all depends.
Your best friend for an eco build is craigslist though.
Also, the general rule of thumb was anywhere between 13 to 15 percent. so if you make 215 at the flywheel, multiple times 15 percent, take that number, and subtract from 215, then you're making about 183-185 horsepower at the wheels.
Thanks a lot, I live about 30 min. from Orange Park so that is really convenient. As far as intakes go, is one any better than the other?
What and where are the silencers you are referring to?
I think it gives the wheel well a better, smoother look when looking at the wheel. Other than that, useless. Well what I mean is I would pull this and the air silencer too. More air circulation, and that adds.He's talking about the Donkey Penis. If you pull your original air filter box out, there is a silencer that routes air in from the inner fender (it looks like a donkey penis). It actually restricts the airflow into the filter a little, and doesn't seem to do anything to silence the incoming air anyway. Not sure why the put it there in the first place, but it pops right off.
Kurt
The car already has a CAI, would the "Donkey Penis" still be there, and if so, would it affect the CAI?He's talking about the Donkey Penis. If you pull your original air filter box out, there is a silencer that routes air in from the inner fender (it looks like a donkey penis). It actually restricts the airflow into the filter a little, and doesn't seem to do anything to silence the incoming air anyway. Not sure why the put it there in the first place, but it pops right off.
Kurt
I can't imagine how you could leave the donkey penis with a CAI, it's inside the fenderwell, here's a write-up on removal w/pics:The car already has a CAI, would the "Donkey Penis" still be there, and if so, would it affect the CAI?
The car already has a CAI, would the "Donkey Penis" still be there, and if so, would it affect the CAI?
Yes, and what is the drop off at the rear wheels?
Good point! I am more interested in light-to-light performance and that good ol' muscle car sound! Does the Trick Flow stage 1 cam have a good lope to it?Don't get all wrapped around the wire about a peak hp number. You can get a 302 to put out a lot of peak hp with huge aluminum heads and a huge camshaft. Unfortunately you have sacrificed a lot of average hp to make that peak number. Average hp is what makes a car fast. A good set of stock ported heads may never get you that peak 300rwhp, but because they have smaller valves and good air velocity they are going to make more power down low on the rpm band which helps the car build momentum faster. Wouldn't you rather beat someone with 350rwhp with a car only making 280rwhp?
Kurt