How much sound deadening (dynamat etc) is needed?

[SadbutTrue]

I have a 66' coupe... I have a nice stereo to stick into it, and just purchased the front speakers/kick panels and now have all the components I need except wires and insulation. (refer to this thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/772865-installing-potent-stereo-into-classic-advice.html )

I was planning on either using Summit's deadening material or some peel and seal from Lowes (as recommended in that thread), whichever is cheaper. I plan to do the floors, kick panels and behind the rear seat... and possibly in the doors and trunk if people tell me its worthwhile.

Anyone have an estimate on how much square footage I'll need?

 

[suki243]

I ordered 80 sq ft, and I still have a bit extra. I covered teh firewall, the floor, the trunk and behind the 1/4 panels.

 

[jcode68]

I researched and decided to go with RaaMmat and have zero regrets.

RAAMaudio


This is a peel and stick product like DynaMat, but they also have and suggest using a closed cell foam that is another layer that goes on top. Costs a lot less than DynaMat and is same process to install. Do some research and check them out.

 

[Cobra5.0Jeep]

I dynamated the entire interior of my 68 Fastback, the only place i didn't do any was the inside of the doors. Not sure if its worth while or not? I can still do it and i still have some left over. This **** better work good.

 

[66 Restomod]

The doors...

I dynamated the entire interior of my 68 Fastback, the only place i didn't do any was the inside of the doors. Not sure if its worth while or not? I can still do it and i still have some left over. This **** better work good.

I did inside the doors, but my doors were new repops so they didn't have any factory sound deadener in there already. If you have new doors or the old sound deadener can be removed from the original doors, it's worthwhile to mat them right on the metal.

Here's a pic of the door with Dynamat inside:
16+door+1.jpg (image)

And the extra Dynamat in place of the watershield behind the interior door panel too:
16+door+2.jpg (image)

 

[Cobra5.0Jeep]

I did inside the doors, but my doors were new repops so they didn't have any factory sound deadener in there already. If you have new doors or the old sound deadener can be removed from the original doors, it's worthwhile to mat them right on the metal.

Here's a pic of the door with Dynamat inside:
16+door+1.jpg (image)

And the extra Dynamat in place of the watershield behind the interior door panel too:
16+door+2.jpg (image)

i got the factory doors, i was just thinking of putting dynamat on the factory sound deadening material.

 

[jcode68]

You should do the doors, it makes a lot of difference with road noise and rattles while driving. Also, I noticed a difference just when closing the door - get a nice dead sound now and no rattles.

 

[calpolymustang]

I used 36sqft to do my entire floor. I think another 36sqft would be good for the doors, trunk headliner.

I'm not too sure of the best way to deaden the roof. I have a headliner in now, but I wish I did something to tone down the freeway noise.

Amazon.com: Dynamat 10455 Xtreme Bulk Pack 9 Sheets: Automotive

Instead of buying the roller-wheel, just use a bodywork dolly to press the mat down.

 

[suki243]

Anyone who did teh doors, did you take off the factory deadening? or lay it over it?

 

[rebel65]

it would work much better if you took off the factory deadener first

 

[Cobra5.0Jeep]

You should do the doors, it makes a lot of difference with road noise and rattles while driving. Also, I noticed a difference just when closing the door - get a nice dead sound now and no rattles.

ok i'll do it, how did you get the piece of dynamat inside the door, did you put it in with the paper on and then pulled it off and laid it down?

My doors right now seem to make a nice dead sound when closing. I don't think mine rattle, i'll have to listen to them next time.

 

[Stangster007]

How is the factory deadener attached? Isn't the idea just to add some mass to the sheetmetal to lessen high-frequency vibration (sound)? Wouldn't think it would need to be too high-tech.

 

[Shakin66]

I did mine with fatmat. Was sold on eBay 3 or 4 years ago when I did mine. Good stuff!

 

[bocksta]

I researched and decided to go with RaaMmat and have zero regrets.

RAAMaudio


This is a peel and stick product like DynaMat, but they also have and suggest using a closed cell foam that is another layer that goes on top. Costs a lot less than DynaMat and is same process to install. Do some research and check them out.

+1
I used the RaaMmat also. You could get the 1 roll and the ensolite kit they list to do the floor,firewall and the inside of the doors. That should still leave you with enough to do some other smaller areas also. It's easy to work with and is not asphalt based like some other less expensive products.
RAAMaudio


The RaaMmat going down

<a href="http://s407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/dbock/66%20Mustang%20progress%20pics/?action=view&current=021.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/dbock/66%20Mustang%20progress%20pics/th_021.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

The ensolite layer

<a href="http://s407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/dbock/66%20Mustang%20progress%20pics/?action=view&current=069.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/dbock/66%20Mustang%20progress%20pics/th_069.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

 

[jcode68]

I used 2 rolls of the RaaMmat and did the full floors, under the rear seat, inside of the rear quarters, full trunk (not the lid) and the inside of the doors. I would have done the rooft, but didn't want to pull the headliner. Inside of doors will need to be done with 4 pieces so that you can fit them into the opening and have room to peel the backing off and apply. I used prep sol on a rage to slean the inside of the door shell and then applied the deadener directly over what was there. It sticks fine as long as there is no dirt or grease.

 

[JESTER]

OP - don't use Peel and Seal from Lows. While there are a few that like it, you run a good risk of having the inside of your car smell like melted tar after a good hot summer. I don't know about you, but after all that work I would be pissed if my car smelt like that.

Depending on what you want to do, if you want GOOD sound deadening from road/wind/tire/exhaust....you'll have the best results with the following.

A load deadening material (example, Dynomat), and you shouldn't have to cover 100% of the surface. You just need enough to deaden any vibration that may generate. From what I researched, approx 35% coverage is all you need.

A closed cell foam (there are different types to choose from - just research).

A vinyl covering (again, many types to choose from).

While this may be a bit more expensive, it should yield you far better results than just the load deadening material (dynomat, fatmat Raatmat)

 

[mrmustangman357]

lizard skin?

 

[jbuening]

I've heard good things about Second Skin as well, may be something you check into. It's a bit more than the cheaper versions of Dynamat but still less than Dynamat itself.

 

[Cobra5.0Jeep]

So i finally put Dynamat in my doors, what a pain in the ass but i got every inch of it. My biceps are red rings around them from sticking my arm inside the biggest hole on the door lol. Now i just need to dynamat the front area where the kick panel goes and i am completely done with dynamating.

 

[Z06killinSBF]

Dynamat type material is only really good at cutting vibrations (that 35% rule) and sealing off stuff. You really need a foam or wool backing to cut down the road noise we are often fighting off. I covered my whole floor, inside doors, inside door panels, kick panels both sides and all of the trunk with a dynamat supplement. I want to pull the carpet up and put down some thicker stuff over it. I am also going to get the Dynamat hoodliner. I used 100sq ft of sound destroyer mat.

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