I freaking give up.....

[candyapple]

Ok guys, one more time before I throw this C-4 POS in the dumpster. I am putting in a 1984 302 from a F-150 2bbl. I have the following:

1984 302 stock
157 Tooth TCI Flexplate 50oz, 10.5 Bolt Pattern
Small Bellhousing for c-4 157tooth 5 7/8" overall depth, block to tranny
Stock 1966 I6 C-4 Tranny (Will upgrade internals later)
FM18 Torque Conv. 10.5 Bolt 2 drain plugs centered between studs 24 splines

I have check and double check to make sure the convertor is seated. I have taken the input shaft out and put the tc in. I get two clicks. One when it goes onto the splines and the other when the flats of the TC fit onto the flats of the pump. I can turn the convertor and the tail shaft can be seen turning. I can see of 1/8 to 1/4" of torque shaft after I do this. (Took the bell off just to see if it was going all the way in). Put the bell back on and get the same 2 clicks(without input shaft). I have had two other people also check to make sure it is in all the way. I can put the tran on the engine and push it up by hand as much as possible. I start some of my bolts by hand to hold it. Once it get them pulled up as far as I can by hand there is no play in the tc to move back and forth. At this point the bell is a good 1/2" from the block. I know if I start to pull it up it will just bind and tear up the pump. What the heck is going on here. I verified the part numbers on the tran to be a 1966 c4. Can someone tell me the parts they used with there 24 spline c-4 to v8 conversion, hopefully with a 157 tooth flexplate.

 

[pabear89]

Have you tryed to mount just the conv to the flywheel to make sure the nose will fit the back of the crank?

PB

 

[candyapple]

Mounts up snug like it shoudl

 

[D.Hearne]

Sounds like it's time for a Toploader ! But seriously, I feel your pain. Wish I could help, but you've got me stumped. Maybe the bell housing doesn't work with that torque converter ? If you want to try another converter, I've got a good rebuilt one here, that I only used for a few miles on a C-4. ( I had problems too with C-4's Replaced it with a Toploader 4 sp.) I'll let you have it cheap. You pay the shipping. It's a 24 spline also for a 67 Stang.

 

[none67]

Sorry, i know this off topic. but, i'm just curious my old C-4 is 28 spline. Why did they made 24 and 28 spline?

as for the problem.. i'm not quite sure.. maybe you TC is too wide? (if i read the problem correctly)

 

[candyapple]

D. Hearne,

Can you tell me too things about the rebuilt on you have. What is the length from bolt pad to the end of the snouth that goes into the tranny. How much for the one you have. thank for all the help you have given me.

 

[D.Hearne]

I'll measure it afterwhile and post it. If you want it, pay the shipping on it, if it works, pay me whatever you think it's worth. I bought it new-rebuilt, but no longer have the C-4 it was for, so I don't need it. I'll post the dimensions this afternoon.

 

[D.Hearne]

The overall distance from top to bottom with the converter sitting on it's front snout is 6 5/16" . The front snout is 7/16" long and 1.375 in dia. The rear collar that fits into the trans is 1.857 dia., the distance between the flats that drive the pump is 1.845. these flats are 9/16" deep. The body of the converter is 12" and is 4 1/2 thick. Hope this helps.

 

[jscar1968]

Okay, just to make sure. What about the alignment pins in the back of the block. Do they line up? I'm not trying to piss you off, just making sure. I have both types of flywheels (28 and 50) in the garage, it doesn't look like the off set is any different. What about the engine to trans plate?. Hope you figure it out. Keep us posted.

 

[crushnut]

I know how you feel candyapple, i am having the same problem

 

[WORTH]

Don't know if you've done this or not, but

bolt the converter to the engine,
measure from the bellhousing surface on the engine to the back of the TC

then measure the bellhousing to tranny distance and make sure it is greater.

 

[mustang70]

I thought it was three clicks? One for the flat on the pump, one for the small input shaft engaging the stator, and one for the large set of splines. It's been awhile since I've pulled a converter so I could be way off.

 

[danza]

I know this thread is really old but thought I should chime in. This might help some of you guys working on getting the torque converter and c-4 bolted back on..

I replaced my flexplate today. When it was time to rebolt the tranny/torque converter into place i spent about 2 hours trying to push that thing in the last 1/2 of an inch so that the bellhousing would seat right up against the engine. It just wouldn't budge. I dropped everything down, took the tc out and reseated it. This time I made sure to manhandle it into place while rotating/wiggling side to side. I got 4 clicks instead of 3.

I tried again and from start to finish it took about 20 minutes, with all the bolts torqued to speck.

If the job is taking more than an hour the tc is probably not seated all the way.
Again, that extra click gave me the 1/2 in i needed and it slid right in.

If you're simply eyeballing it that 1/2 to 3/4 in might seem insignificant and you'll think you have it seated all the way. Make sure you tighten your belt a little bettter and push that tc in. That extra click will save you hours of headaches.

 

[57fairlane]

That extra click will save you hours of headaches.

no kidding . . . I had a shop work on my falcon a LONG time ago. Before I knew what I was doing long ago and they didn't seat the converter in all the way and 2,500 miles later my thrust bearing was shot along with the crank.

Having done my own work for awhile now the converters always seem like they are engaged but usually there is one more click that you need. I don't know why its like that but its definitely not as easy as the chevy stuff.