i hurt her bad, need some advice
- Thread starter 00filly
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
hell if it will keep me from going through this ever again, i'll friggin use royal purple in it from now on. :-(
stng said:
ok timeout. before everybody goes off the deep end here.
the guy who owns the car and was there said THE DYNO OPERATOR DID NOT OVERREV THE MOTOR i think it's irresponsible to blame this dyno operator with no proof that he caused the problem..
now if this car was reved to 7k plus rpms then i would say yes he is at fault.
do we know what the air fuel ratio was at the time of the failure?? was the motor detonating???
before we throw fuel on a fire lets get facts straight.
remember the guys shop name is on the dyno sheet and that name is now on this board. so please a little proof before this shop gets blamed.
remember to tune the car they have to run it.
first thisng we have to know is the ari to fuel ratios durring both runs. and was he making adjustments on the second run when it blew.
svttech76 said:
i completely agree with you. i think the guy running the shop has both a genuine love for mustangs and years of experience working on them. i'm a suspicious person by nature.....my car DIED on his dyno and i still want him to build the motor for it. i don't suspect the guy, his shop or his methods. he had other employees monitoring readings outside of the vehicle to make sure that nobody dynoed unsafely. and when my boyfriend (yes, i'm a girl...) dynoed his car, it started running lean on a 100 shot of nitrous at 5000 rpms, and it was IMMEDIATELY shut down to prevent damage to his motor.
having said that, my 1st dyno pull chart is posted on the first page of this thread. the second pull didn't get a printout, but at 6000 rpm, i was in the green on a/f....somewhere between 11.3-11.5. if anything, the car was running a bit RICH, not lean. there was no detonation, no indication that something was wrong. it just friggin happened. it was fine, and then it was going CLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACK (sounds like it's near the front of the right cylinder bank.
but the guy that dynoed my car has been doing this for years. he didn't over-rev, he didn't hold 6k rpms for longer than he should've and NOBODY had any indication that it was going to happen.
it's time to lick my wounds, and look towards the future. i seek advice....i'm also wondering if anyone knows what mitchell says for r/r of both a shortblock, and a complete motor install.
i don't have mitchell time. but warranty time for the engine r+r is 8.1 for manual trans 6.8 for a auto. for a short block replacement time to r+r heads and set timming under warrenty is 6.7 so warrenty total for a shortblock is
14.8 for a manual shortblock. a lot of shops will want more like 20- 25 hours.
where a longblock will be more like 12 hours installed cash price. it might be in your best interest to buy a motor with heads on it. why pay all that labor.
14.8 for a manual shortblock. a lot of shops will want more like 20- 25 hours.
where a longblock will be more like 12 hours installed cash price. it might be in your best interest to buy a motor with heads on it. why pay all that labor.
00filly said:
royal purple is GREAT stuff if i was not so poor i would use it. but i have hundreds of gallons of nice free motorcraft super premium 5-20 in my bay and my parts dept gives me filters for free.let alone all the brand new 820's laying around the bays the hacks work in
i get free oil changes. hell i might start changing my oil once a day 
Similar threads
