idoling problem

[MagnaflowGT]

Ok, I went to drive my stang today. I cut it on and went to back out. The RPMs dropped and it started to put and then it cut off. SO I did it again, and i pressed the gas and it did it again, then i noticed smoke. Could my idol air control sensor be bad? This is a big problem i need fixed before I go to laguna. any help?

 

[HISSIN50]

im not exactly sure what your entire post means. however, i would pull codes. pay attention to IAC, ECT, ACT, and EGR codes.
then, as you said, clean the iac and see what gives.

good luck and welcome to the boards.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

what do I use to clean it. Its messing up really bad, like when I drive it, and i floor it, it just puts and stutters then it pics up, and when i shift, it does it too when i step on the gas again

 

[GRGT1994]

I think you should do something to get your Mustang off of the idol worship. I mean all this talk about idol problems is a bit concerning.

Oh, maybe you were talking about the car's idle. Sorry just couldn't resist.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

Lol.. haha, you know what I meant, but seriously though. This is a really stupid problem to have, but, it is a problem.

 

[TheUser]

i cleaned mine w/ throttle body cleaner. Pull codes like Hissin says...if you don't know how, search for Jrichker and keyword codes and it should be in one of his posts somewhere.

 

[HISSIN50]

i cleaned mine w/ throttle body cleaner. Pull codes like Hissin says...if you don't know how, search for Jrichker and keyword codes and it should be in one of his posts somewhere.

two good points, TU.

do use TB cleaner - not carb cleaner (there is a teflon coating in there which you dont want to remove).

and with the issues you mention since your initial post, do pull codes and let us know - with issues that large, you should be tossing some codes. good luck.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

ok, cleaning the throttleobdy i can do, but I dont kno wanything about pulling codes. Would getting another computer work as well?

 

[jrichker]

If the car runs at all, keep your existing computer. They very seldom fail and still leave the engine running decently at any speed.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .

 

[MagnaflowGT]

i'll just have to take it to a show and let them try something, this is a little too cpmplicated for me. Im not good with the electrical type stuff.

 

[jrichker]

i'll just have to take it to a show and let them try something, this is a little too cpmplicated for me. Im not good with the electrical type stuff.

Spend the $30 or so and buy a Ford scanner from AutoZone or Walmart. They are Murphy proof, and the first use will pay for it. Most auto shops are going to charge 1 hour's worth of labor at $60-$75 an hour. Post the results of the scan and we'll help you get it fixed.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

Ok then, I will do that. But where do I plug it up at. Sorry if I sound like a novice, but I am when it comes to this kinda stuff.

 

[87'GTstang]

If the car runs at all, keep your existing computer. They very seldom fail and still leave the engine running decently at any speed.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .

Go figure, there's the code/computer man! I was always wondering what method if any method at all would work for an 87' or if MAF conversion was ever done - would it work then?

Anyway back to the topic, If your car is having a problem like that then you almost should be showing a code in the computer. I'm not 100% sure where it is on yours but the two most common places for the datalink connector for a scanner is either uner the driver's side of the dash or the passenger side of the engine compatment.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

Ok then, thank you. I hope I dont have to replace any sensors or nothin, and im hopin its somethin in the computer. WIll this thing fix the problem, or just give me codes or somethin to work with?

 

[Venom4.6]

Ok, I went to drive my stang today. I cut it on and went to back out. The RPMs dropped and it started to put and then it cut off. SO I did it again, and i pressed the gas and it did it again, then i noticed smoke. Could my idol air control sensor be bad? This is a big problem i need fixed before I go to laguna. any help?

What color was the smoke? Black(fuel), blue(oil) or white(coolant)?
Black means you are running pig rich, not enough air or too much fuel(fuel pressure) Clean throttle body, MAF, IAC and check TPS voltage and fuel pressure(38-40psi is good).
Blue, check your spark plugs for oil deposits
White, intake seal is bad.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

The smoke was black sometimes and then white the other times. I dunno, whatever it is is really annoying. Its aggravating and um.. yea, Im kinda sick of it. Cause me to miss my SCCA race. I guess i'll have to wait til tomorrow to clean all that stuff.

 

[jrichker]

Ok then, I will do that. But where do I plug it up at. Sorry if I sound like a novice, but I am when it comes to this kinda stuff.

The test connector is located on the back side of the driver side strut tower.

When you buy the scanner, it has a really good instruction manual that tells you how to use it & what the connector looks like.

See http://www.actron.com/publish/2004/06/23/pdf_english_16153.pdf for a free look at the instuction manual.

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

 

[MagnaflowGT]

Thanx guy. I'll have to wait til tomorrow to do some buying, because everything is closed right now. I hope it works.

 

[syburstang]

I have the same problem, and bought that exact code scanner and it doesn't work for me...I think that my wiring is mega jacked up. However, just to add...I've also been told that an insufficient fuel pump or faulty fuel pump can cause that also. You should do what I intend to do and that is check your entire fuel system also. I wish you more luck than I'm having.

 

[MagnaflowGT]

The code scanner or whatever didnt work good. I took it back up to 8 seconds and they said it was one of 3 problems. My idle air control, my mass air meter, or my fuel pump