Just installed my S Trim last weekend..

[99FiveOh]

I got this thing in and it looks like the FMU and 19 lb injectors are not going to cut it (even though Vortech says they will).

I'm not sure if I'm leaning out or going rich because I don't have a gauge, but hopefully after the tune I'll be able to have some fun!

I want to hear about some of your guys' experiences with S trims. Like when you installed it on a stock motor, how did it run initially? Did it make like a growling noise as it was idling? It feels really nice at the mere 5 or so lbs I dare take it to, but I can't wait to feel it's full potential.

For those who actually installed it and got it tuned properly, does 10-12 lbs feel really fast? Should I be able to lay waste to most WRX's? That was the main reason for buying this thing in the first place, I could hang with them, but they would leave me off the line and at the top end.

 

[tjh566]

well, ill tell you this, your gonna need bigger injectors along with that tune, I tried tuning around my FMU on my 24 #'ers and it didnt go to well, had to disconnect it. The duty cycle on my 24's is 104% at 5000 rpm, it is said not to go too much over 80% for risk on injector failure.

And I ran without a tune for awhile, I thought it was running ok, but with my self tune it is 100% better, I didnt realize how bad it was running.

Also if you go up to 10-12#'s of boost you might need a bigger MAF, If im not mistaken those 75mm one top out at like 1200 kg/hr, someone correct me on that, but im running at 1162 kg/hr with my 7-8#'s of boost, I really like the 90mm lightining MAF I got, cheap and effective, $90

 

[cbarr300]

well as far as experiences go....think of it like this. You're car is a tad bit faster (not too too much) below 3800 or so rpm. But once you get past that, hold on cuz that's right around the threshold for a s-trim. Plenty of top-end torque.

I will tell you that:

You'll need some bigger injectors (I'd go with 42s)

You should make sure your pcv system is up to par (either get a turbocoupe pcv or a catchcan)

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD TUNE

When you get those different injectors, upgrade your maf to one of those pro-m pieces (I've heard good things about the 80mm)

Look into getting a BTM if you don't have one...or meth/water injecton

and finally, I'd definately invest in a wideband/fuel pressure gauge.....cuz sooner or later something bad's bound to happen and it's nice to know where your problem is.

 

[99FiveOh]

42# injectors and matching MAF is already in the plans. A tune will follow shortley after. I have a new PCV valve, will that not be ok? What year turbo coupe PCV? Does it go in the same way my stock setup does?

I can drive the car now, I just don't beat on it, without boost it drives like normal. I just can't wait to feel what my investment can do! I kinda wish I would have just bolted up a set of AFR 165's along with a good cam. Anybody have any regret even after they got a tune and it was running right?

I already have a BTM btw.

 

[tjh566]

dont get the MAF cal'ed for 42# injectors! Get a normal maf, the 90mm Lightining is a good choice, the maf cal'ed for the injectors uses a cheat medthod of tuning and it really isnt all that accurate/great, then you have to tune around it later on down the road.

 

[99FiveOh]

yeah, planning to get the Lightning unit.

Question, will the car start and drive with the lightning MAF attached? Reason being is because I'm gonna install the injectors and MAF and drive to get it tuned (maybe 5-10 miles away from the dyno shop).

I've heard if you unplug the MAF, the computer will go into limp home mode and will still be able to drive, true?

 

[tjh566]

not sure how all that works, but my guess if it did, it would do much at all. when I put my on I just tuned for it with the tweecer.

 

[HGFireHazard]

I was having problems getting the new MAF connected to the harness and the computer would kick a 157 (I think), and I couldn't even get the sucker to start it was running so darn rich. I'm not sure how things work if you entirely unplug it, but I would be weary.

I don't see what's wrong with getting the MAF calibrated for 42's if that's what you plan on getting, it may be a cheat method, but if it makes sure your car makes it to the dyno safer, what's the deal?

After I got mine tuned and took it for the first drive I nearly crapped my pants I thought it was so fast. I see you have an intake which will definately help your numbers out to be above mine and I think you will be most satisfied.

As far as growling, I don't think anything that sounded like growling happened, but it makes that sweet whistle

 

[99FiveOh]

Well, the growling noise goes away with the slightest throttle movement so I'm guessing it's normal. I was told on another forum that the noise I'm hearing happened to them also so..

I found this on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90MM...017QQitemZ270064078391QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Will this work? It says it's for 96 up, but this is the only kind of Lightning meter I've seen.

So FireHazard, the difference between driving it without a tune then getting the tune was that dramatic? I can't wait then!

 

[diablostang]

Well, the growling noise goes away with the slightest throttle movement so I'm guessing it's normal. I was told on another forum that the noise I'm hearing happened to them also so..

I found this on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90MM...017QQitemZ270064078391QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Will this work? It says it's for 96 up, but this is the only kind of Lightning meter I've seen.

So FireHazard, the difference between driving it without a tune then getting the tune was that dramatic? I can't wait then!

Yeah, that's the one. I have that exact one for sale for $65 shipped. Brand new.

 

[jabGT]

Be careful until you get a tune and bigger injectors and MAF, 42lbs injectors would be good especially if you have future plans. If you have the money get the PMS or a tweecer especially if you are going to modding continously like most of us.

It took me over a year to get my car running right. I struggled with getting the the supporting components in the kit to work (fmu, and vortech btm) but after 2 head gaskets, valve job, and relentless detonation. it was inevitable I was going to need a upgrade 42's, MAF. The PMS is amazing and finally cleared up my problems, It is very easy to learn if you know the basics. A wideband is a must after having one I can see life without it.

My V-1 is very loud at idle, sounds like a rock grinder but quiets down with rpm.

After installing the vortech the car ran normally out of the boost but from the beginning I had bad detonation problems even in low boost, and The vortech BTM fried within the first week of use. Your lucky if you haven't had problems yet.

The only regret I have is that I bought the whole kit, just to throw the supporting components away. But other than that I love it puts a smile on my face every time I drive it, depite all the initial headaches.

Also you may need to upgrade the ignition, If you find you are blowing out spark (common problem with 94-95's in SC applications)

 

[99FiveOh]

Yeah, when I get into boost in third gear I can feel the car studdering and hesitating, is this because of the spark getting blown out?

When I get a tune, will I not need the BTM anymore? Can they tune for that?

Another problem I just discovered is oil coming out of my dipstick. Happened twice so far. My PCV is new and I have a oil breather cap for my valve cover. I'm running fox throttle body so I wasn't sure where to run the oil breather hose. I was told a breather cap would work fine, but doesn't seem like it's venting enough air. What do you guys recommend to combat this problem?

Thanks alot for all your input, i'm new to supercharging so this information really helps!

Diablostang, if you still have that meter in a week, I'll buy it from you. BTW, why are you getting rid of it? Where do I get the plug for it?

 

[tjh566]

you wont need the BTM anymore after the tune.

As for spark getting blown out, I doubt it at 5lbs of boost, Im running 7-8 with the stock system and im doing fine, BUT if you didnt re-gap your plug down to .035 this could be the case.

as for the pcv system Idk

 

[99FiveOh]

Plugs are gapped to 35. I'm thinking the FMU is probably loading it up with TOO much fuel and it's putting out the fire. I'm getting 42's tomarrow and a MAF soon.

 

[tjh566]

Ahh yes, I was having that problem with too much fuel my self, it would sputter and lose some power once you started going, it was the fmu, disconnect that thing and tuned in my AFR.

 

[99FiveOh]

I have an AFPR, but I doubt I can get the right amount of fuel just from that..

 

[HGFireHazard]

I ended up gapping mine down to .022 and was recommended that by PHP (the place that did my dyno tune). As far as I can tell I've had little/no spark blowout and she seems strong. I would like to get a full ignition and some wires and such some time later this year just to see if I can help things out a bit more. If you havn't already done so look into a cooler plug, but I assume you already have.

The difference before/after tune for me might have been less than I was noticing, mostly because I tried to keep it out of the boost.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask, I'll help where I can.

 

[jabGT]

When you replaced your pcv did you replace the screen cup thing below the pcv grommet? Sometimes those become clogged.

When using the FMU on my car it was causing sputtering and hesitation in early boost stages but it was from a lean condition, spark blow out usually happens in the higher rpm/boost ranges. My FMU was never right, when I tested it would pulsate or not even work at all unitl 8psi and then it pop thus becoming sharply rich almost as if it was getting stuck. Listen closely for pinging, sometimes it is very faint.

 

[99FiveOh]

I'm gonna pull the blower belt and drive it N/A, in the mean time I'm gonna sell the BTM and FMU to make up some money to get it tuned. I just picked up my 42lb injectors today, so I'm one step closer!

I didn't change the screen in the intake, but I just put the intake on before I replaced the PCV valve and I sprayed the crap out of it with carb cleaner, even though it was already pretty clean due to the intake being almost new.

I don't think there was anything wrong with the Ford unit that was in there, but I'm gonna get the turbo coupe one and an inline check valve and go from there.

 

[cbarr300]

concerning the pcv:

The part number I used was EV127A. It helped me out...especially with the all too common "oil coming back through the intake" problem

The sputtering is most likely a rich condition.

If I'm not mistaken you bought a tweecer right? Do yourself a HUGE favor and get a wideband O2...you WON'T regret it, I promise.

EDIT: on the spark plugs....I found that running autolite 23s worked out well for me