el_kid_1 said:Thanks a lot DeadLurker for posting the graphs!
el_kid_1 said:Well, KB called back and we discussed my dyno numbers over the phone. James explained that the cause could be several things. He first suggested running the car in first gear to see at what RPM the rev limiter kicks in. I did it tonight and I was able to pull it to around 6100 RPMs. The dyno guy who made the dyno pull said that the rev limiter kicked at 5300 RPMs...quite strange! The next step in the troubleshooting list is to measure the BAP voltage. I went to PepBoys and got a multimeter and will measure the BAP voltage tomorrow. The voltage should read 17V if the BAP is working properly. Can some enlighten me on how is the BAP voltage measured?
I will definetely look for another dyno. There's got to be other options. Now I know that the rev limiter kicks in at 6100 RPMs, but the fact that the A/F ratio keeps rising beyond 5300 RPMs (as depicted on the graph) is what I consider to be my main concern.DeadLurker said:Maybe he just didnt' know what he was doing and had the dyno set to shut down at 5,300rpms. Considering he didnt' go WOT till like 4,000rpms...and shut it down at 5,300rpms...I wouldnt' be surprised if he was in the wrong gear also.
Is the option of getting it dynoed elsewhere a possibility?
Nope, I won't have my gauges installed until next week. Then I will know the fuel pressure. That's my third and last step on the troubleshooting list suggested by KB. James said that the fuel pressure should be around 50 psi. But thus far, I'm inclined to think that I have a faulty vacuum/pressure switch. There was no sign of detonation during the dyno run. I was running 93 octane with along with an octane booster...I'm a bit paranoid How can I test the pressure switch? Any ideas?CTGrey02 said:First off, if they said that car had a rev limiter at 5300, that'd be the first indicator to get the fudge outta there. How did they mount the exhaust sniffer???? Your numbers would have been where they need to be for a blower like that had they gone to 6100. I believe the limiter is 50 RPM higher or so. Do you hear detonation at the upper RPM range? It'll sound like metal rattling around in your exhaust. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I know they're not the most accurate, but still, do you notice a drop in fuel pressure in the upper RPM range?
the pressure switch for the BAP?? You could use the mutimeter you have. Have a friend rev the engine in neutral while checking the resistance on the 2 leads of the pressure switch. the meter should read open (O.L) until the pressure drops, which would then make the contacts in the switch, then you should read 0 - 0.02 or so ohms. MAKE SURE the contacts from the meter leads are not touching your fingers, as this will give you a false resistance reading. Also, if you want to check your fuel pressure, you can shut your car completely off, hold the trip reset button in, then turn the key to the ON position. This will Bring up the Diagnostics display on your Odometer. TRUST ME, it works. The Gauges will all go dead, then full and all the lights on the dash will come on initially if you do it correctly. then let the reset button go. every time you push it after that it will show something different in the odometer screen. I think fuel pressure is either FP or FL. Anyways you'll know it when you see it. I'll do a seach for a link that explains this procedure better, and post it when I find it. Good luck with the trouble shooting, and PM me if you have any Questions on using the Multimeter.el_kid_1 said:Nope, I won't have my gauges installed until next week. Then I will know the fuel pressure. That's my third and last step on the troubleshooting list suggested by KB. James said that the fuel pressure should be around 50 psi. But thus far, I'm inclined to think that I have a faulty vacuum/pressure switch. There was no sign of detonation during the dyno run. I was running 93 octane with along with an octane booster...I'm a bit paranoid How can I test the pressure switch? Any ideas?
Dan_Soprano, thanks for the advice. I continued with the troubleshooting this afternoon. I ran a wire from the pressure switch and another one from a good ground to the car interior. I had a friend with a multimeter sitting on the passenger seat and we went for I spin. I figured that if the switch is working properly, it should active the BAP after 3.5 psi, and hence the multimeter should read 17 V, which is the operating voltage of the BAP. We ran the test this afternoon and we were able to read 17.3 V at WOT. Therefore, I concluded that both BAP and pressure switch are working properly.Dan_Soprano said:the pressure switch for the BAP?? You could use the mutimeter you have. Have a friend rev the engine in neutral while checking the resistance on the 2 leads of the pressure switch. the meter should read open (O.L) until the pressure drops, which would then make the contacts in the switch, then you should read 0 - 0.02 or so ohms. MAKE SURE the contacts from the meter leads are not touching your fingers, as this will give you a false resistance reading. Also, if you want to check your fuel pressure, you can shut your car completely off, hold the trip reset button in, then turn the key to the ON position. This will Bring up the Diagnostics display on your Odometer. TRUST ME, it works. The Gauges will all go dead, then full and all the lights on the dash will come on initially if you do it correctly. then let the reset button go. every time you push it after that it will show something different in the odometer screen. I think fuel pressure is either FP or FL. Anyways you'll know it when you see it. I'll do a seach for a link that explains this procedure better, and post it when I find it. Good luck with the trouble shooting, and PM me if you have any Questions on using the Multimeter.
~DAN~
good stuff bro.........just trying to help out a fellow stanger!!!el_kid_1 said:Dan_Soprano, thanks for the advice. I continued with the troubleshooting this afternoon. I ran a wire from the pressure switch and another one from a good ground to the car interior. I had a friend with a multimeter sitting on the passenger seat and we went for I spin. I figured that if the switch is working properly, it should active the BAP after 3.5 psi, and hence the multimeter should read 17 V, which is the operating voltage of the BAP. We ran the test this afternoon and we were able to read 17.3 V at WOT. Therefore, I concluded that both BAP and pressure switch are working properly.