Kenne Bell install

[Ray@VSK]

I just bought a 1.5L Kenne Bell super charger with an 8lb pulley & was wondering what all will I need to get it going before I take it to the Dyno for a tuning ?

I got 30# injectors, 75mm Mass air meter, 65mm throttlebody, 190lb fuel pump, fuel regulator, Egr plate & stock crank pulleys, what about an upgraded ignition coil or inline fuel pump, do I need that or anything else ?

Also what would you suggest I upgrade if anything should I get a 70mm throttlebody, what should I set the timing at & should I get a 9lb pulley instead, I plan to run 91 octane ?

 

[Ray@VSK]

Hmm, no replys, did I ask too hard of a question

 

[CRASH7772]

I just bought a 1.5L Kenne Bell super charger with an 8lb pulley & was wondering what all will I need to get it going before I take it to the Dyno for a tuning ?

I got 30# injectors, 75mm Mass air meter, 65mm throttlebody, 190lb fuel pump, fuel regulator, Egr plate & stock crank pulleys, what about an upgraded ignition coil or inline fuel pump, do I need that or anything else ?

Also what would you suggest I upgrade if anything should I get a 70mm throttlebody, what should I set the timing at & should I get a 9lb pulley instead, I plan to run 91 octane ?

You might need more that a 190lph pump being supercharged. I would go with the 70mm over the 65mm. Are you on stock heads? Your timing would probably depend alot on your heads and every motor is different. Run the 8lb pulley for now and you can always upgrade later on. Not sure what your spendind limits are but I have and like the Jacob's ignition kit (about $400). You might need a chip burned to get the most out of your set up. It looks like to me that your mass air meter, injectors, fuel pump are good for the 400ish hp range with the fuel pump being the weakest link then the injectors after that. I wish I could tell you more but atleast it's a reply...better than nothing.

 

[Ray@VSK]

Ya I was wanting to go 70mm throttlebody but I got a 75mm Pro-M & it's tapered on the back to 65mm, I already had to make shift a 65mm mac cold air tube to work from my meter to the throttle because I'm using a cervini ram air hood kit, anyone know of any air inlet tube I could use cause I havn't been able to find none but the c&l that's 76 but not long enough ?

I think I'm ok on the fuel delivery as Kenne Bell told me I should be alright & eitherway I got a FMU with the blower anyways but you do think I should definately upgrade my stock ignition though right, don't want to spend $400 but what about a MSD are they alright ?

 

[87GT 306]

Do Kenne Bell's have bypass valves? Im sure that they must have some kind of vent to get the boost out when let off. Where is it and where does it vent to? Im thinking about getting the flowzilla.

 

[Ray@VSK]

Mine don't, I got the basic one but ya the real expensive twin screw do, you don't need the Zilla in & outlet "blow by" unless your running there 16 to 24lb.

 

[04sleeper]

The only way to find out if you have enough fuel is to dyno it with a wide band O2 sensor and see if your car goes static. Also changing from the 65 mm TB to the 70 is not going to net you any extra HP.

It all depends on what kind of tune you are planning to go with as far as your timing, octane rating and pulley combo go.

 

[Daggar]

I think I'm ok on the fuel delivery as Kenne Bell told me I should be alright & eitherway I got a FMU with the blower anyways but you do think I should definately upgrade my stock ignition though right, don't want to spend $400 but what about a MSD are they alright ?

That FMU you got with the 1.5L will do you absoultely no good whatsoever with 30 lb/hr injectors installed. I hope that you don't have that installed. One other thing of note about the FMU is that it will not make up for an inadequate fuel pump on ANY setup. I think you may have gotten it's function confused with the function of Kenne Bell's Boost-A-Pump.

 

[Daggar]

Do Kenne Bell's have bypass valves? Im sure that they must have some kind of vent to get the boost out when let off. Where is it and where does it vent to? Im thinking about getting the flowzilla.

The 2.2L liter kits all have bypass valves. The bypassed air goes from the Boosted manifold over to the non-boosted manifold and gets cursulated back through the twinscrew. The 1.5 kit doesn't have or require one largely due to the fact that the throttle body in this case is "sucking" air into the supercharger and doesn't see the abuse it would if it were the restriction on the pressure discharge side of a centfrifigul. In other words... since it's not slamming shut against boost pressure, it's not required.

 

[5ptgo]

The bypass is meant to reduce the heating of the air coming out of the blower during off boost period. The compressor is always compressing which causes the blower to heat up thereby passing some that heat onto the air it's pushing. The reason that you don't see them frequently on the 1500s is that at the recommended boost levels for it, it doesn't heat the air as much as Blowzilla would. At least this is what I read.

 

[Daggar]

The bypass is meant to reduce the heating of the air coming out of the blower during off boost period. The compressor is always compressing which causes the blower to heat up thereby passing some that heat onto the air it's pushing. The reason that you don't see them frequently on the 1500s is that at the recommended boost levels for it, it doesn't heat the air as much as Blowzilla would. At least this is what I read.

That's incorrect. The discharged air temp (for a given boost level) on the larger blower is not as hot as is it is on the smaller blower. The larger screws in the 2.2L are more efficient and do not transfer as much heat to the air charge temp as the smaller screws do. Keep in mind that pressure created by a screw type blower is made in the intake (upper and lower) and not so much in the blower itself. Compressing air (of course) causes it's temperature to go up. The rest of the heat gained in that process is passed to the air by the components of compressor itself. In this particular case, since the larger screws are more efficient and do not need to compress that air into a tight of a space (between the blower screws) as the smaller version does then that heat that's passing over those components is considerably less. Screw supercharges displace air by volume, not pressure (that's oversimplified but you get my drift).

 

[5ptgo]

This sounds like it might be a good technical discussion thread. Before I picked up my KB I read alot of threads on the Corral and I picked up Corky Bell's supercharging book. According to Don_95Vert on the Corral, at lower boosts levels, the 1500 is more efficient than the 2200 and conversely, the 2200 is more efficient at higher boost levels. I don't know if he got that information from KB and I can't find any math in Corky's book to verify this.

I'm not sure what you mean by upper intake in the context of the KB but it's the roots supercharger where the compression is done in the intake rather than the blower. The screw type supercharger is a true compressor while the roots is a pump. The bypass on the KB is meant to avoid the compression from the screws and it's resulting additional heat.

That's incorrect. The discharged air temp (for a given boost level) on the larger blower is not as hot as is it is on the smaller blower. The larger screws in the 2.2L are more efficient and do not transfer as much heat to the air charge temp as the smaller screws do. Keep in mind that pressure created by a screw type blower is made in the intake (upper and lower) and not so much in the blower itself. Compressing air (of course) causes it's temperature to go up. The rest of the heat gained in that process is passed to the air by the components of compressor itself. In this particular case, since the larger screws are more efficient and do not need to compress that air into a tight of a space (between the blower screws) as the smaller version does then that heat that's passing over those components is considerably less. Screw supercharges displace air by volume, not pressure (that's oversimplified but you get my drift).

 

[Ray@VSK]

So what's the FMU for then, I thought it just restricted return fuel during boost to build pressure, does it not ?

 

[5ptgo]

All the FMU does is partially block the return path of the fuel going back to the gas tank as you have stated. This effectively raises fuel pressure at the injectors so they can physically supply more fuel per squirt. It has nothing to do with boost pressure other than supplying the fuel necessary to safely support the boost pressure. Let me know if my understanding of your question is incorrect.

 

[Ray@VSK]

Understood, but this I won't need right, since I got a 190lb & am only running 8lb boost ?

 

[5ptgo]

Ray,

I was looking at your combo in your sig. Are you running an FMU? Have you had your car dynoed? If so do you have any AF data? I'm running 30lb injectors on a stock longblock without FMU and am wondering how much headroom I have left with regards to horsepower without changing injectors. I'm hoping that I can get away with a 75hp shot of nitrous for track purposes.
It would make for a nice power adding intercooler.

 

[5ptgo]

Ray,

Plenty of people run 30lb injectors on STOCK motors with a KB @8lbs of boost withouth an FMU. You might run into trouble when start flowing more air like you are through your heads. There are calculators around that can tell you how much hp a certain size injector can support at a given duty cycle. I think there's one on the Corral.

 

[Ray@VSK]

No not yet, I'm just trying to knowledge myself before I get it & install before I take it up to be dyno tuned, I'm just trying to figure out what I will need to do prior to taking it up there to save $ on dyno time.

 

[Daggar]

I'm not sure what you mean by upper intake in the context of the KB but it's the roots supercharger where the compression is done in the intake rather than the blower. The screw type supercharger is a true compressor while the roots is a pump. The bypass on the KB is meant to avoid the compression from the screws and it's resulting additional heat.

This is something that Roots and screw superchargers have in common. They are both positive displacement superchargers. The compression of the air is what causes the primary source of heat in any supercharger regardless of type. For Roots and Screw type chargers that occurs in the manifolds where the pressure backs up and builds. Centrifiguls are a different matter. The pressure is built and present at the disharge tube of the SC. If you were to take a centrifugal an uncouple it from the engine yo would still see it's boost pressure at the discharge tube. Not so with Roots and Screw type SCs. Uncoupled form the engine, you would see almost no pressure from it's discharge side. It's not until you begin restricting air flow from the discharge side of positive displacement superchargers that pressure begins to build.

As for the FMU. The one that comes with the KB kit has a 10:1 fuel ramp ratio. Combined with 30 lb injectors, it's waaaaaaaaay too much gas for your application. Figure 30 lb injectors at 85 PSI at roughly 80% of their duty cycle along with a 190L/HR pump and you're talking a whole lot of gas. That particular FMU was designed with the 19 lb/hr injectors in mind ramping up the fuel pressure enough to "fool" the injectors into acting like 24 lb/hr. Your 30lbers should be sufficient for your application without an FMU although you may end up at some point, having to get a chip burned with new WOT fuel tables since the computer does not look at AFR at WOT.

 

[Ray@VSK]

Well I got a Pro-M Optimizer that works great for adjusting low & high rpm air/fuel ratios, I hope it works