Major Issue.

88LX5.Oh

15 Year Member
Dec 30, 2011
1,442
203
94
Arkansas
So, a few weeks ago I installed a new MAF on my car to make it run properly. Car ran EXCELLENT up until yesterday. I was messing around with it and wanted to shorten my vacuum line from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator (I'm a perfectionist), well got side tracked and forgot I took the hose off. I then had to clean the shop, so I pulled the car out to make room. It still ran good, even with the vacuum hose off and the vacuum port uncapped. It amazed me the car didn't act funny with a vacuum leak (maybe the port has been clogged this whole time?) well anyways about 6 hours later I went to pull the car back into the shop. It started up just fine then outta nowhere it started missing and sounded like it was about to die, I jumped in real quick to give it gas to keep up running but it was too late. It wouldn't start back up and stay running, you could hear it hit a few times and maybe run for a second or two and then die again. Then my genius father runs up and starts turning the distributor with the spout IN like a moron (so timing is at only God knows what). Well today I wanted to try to mess with it. It'll start right up every time, only idle at about 600 RPM (normally it's 900) and it won't rev over 1500, and getting to 1500 takes longer than usual). I pulled #1 plug just for the hell of it and it's all black like it's running rich as hell. And I'm sure that typically it's running a little on the lean side.
I scanned it to see what codes it has and here they are:

15 KOEO = PCM Rom fault/cont = PCM KAM
31 EGR circuit out of range
67 PNP or clutch switch circuit failure
84 EGR Vacuum regulator circuit fault
96 fuel pump circuit open - battery to ECA

In the trouble shooter in my scanner, it says code 15 can arise falsely if you've cleaned the battery terminals or disconnect the battery in some way. That makes sense, it's never had a good battery in it and I always hook the jump box to it or put a different battery in it.
Code 67 can come about from having the little wire on the solenoid taken off. That makes sense because I have a jumper wire/button set up going from the solenoid to the positive terminal on my battery to jump the solenoid from inside the car (so the wire IS off of the solenoid).
Code 96 has no explanation in my scanner so I have no clue WTF it is and all the other EGR crap is explained by the fact that I have no EGR stuff anymore.
I can clear the codes out and they instantly come back on in the KOEO test.

All these codes were also coming up probably 2 months ago when the car would actually start and run so I don't think they are affecting drive-ability.

Anybody have any clues as to what is going on with my car?

Only other details I can add are that it's ALWAYS stored inside. And yesterday was the first day it was outside for more than 20 minutes, and it got up to 105 degrees and the car is black so it just absorbs all the heat. So yesterday was the first day that anything really got any warmth to it because it's always in the back of the shop. It is warm in the shop, but it's not 105 degrees! So, is there anyway that the heat could have messed anything up? Or am I having an issue with my fuel pressure regulator? It's a BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator if that makes any difference.
 
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Did you get any codes while the car is running? That would help. also just pull the spout and twist the dizzy till the two notches line up one on dizzy one on the block. This should be near 10* then set timing. check your fuel pressure, should be 39-40#.
 
Car starts and runs good again. Dad moved all the plug wires around on the distributor (thinking it was one tooth off) and then barely turned the distributor. Now I need to find out how the car got so out of time, or if someone was messing with my plug wires.
 
Setting ignition timing on 5.0 Mustangs

Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10* or 14* or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder.

Be prepared to always run Premium gas (92-93 octane or better) if you go past the stock 10* timing.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the spout should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

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