Major Problems after intake swap on carb'd 5.0

Your not *180 off your somewere in the middle.The big back fire is indicating that cylinders are firing on the wrong stroke.

Take the dizzy out,pull ALL the plugs,get youe 15/16" socket on the balancer bolt and turn the motor with your finguer on the #1 plug hole.When you feel the air,make sure its at TDC on the balancer.The get the dizzy ready by lining up the rotor with the #1 terminal on the cap.The problem happens when you try and put it in,sometimes you have to bump the motor over a little to get the gears to mesh.That of course gets you off TDC and your timnig is now off.So you got to play around moving the rotor befor you put it in so that it lines up with the #1 terminal ON TDC.Otherwise,you'll have to turn the dizzy to match.
 
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bluevenom867 said:
Your not *180 off your somewere in the middle.The big back fire is indicating that cylinders are firing on the wrong stroke.

Take the dizzy out,pull ALL the plugs,get youe 15/16" socket on the balancer bolt and turn the motor with your finguer on the #1 plug hole.When you feel the air,make sure its at TDC on the balancer.The get the dizzy ready by lining up the rotor with the #1 terminal on the cap.The problem happens when you try and put it in,sometimes you have to bump the motor over a little to get the gears to mesh.That of course gets you off TDC and your timnig is now off.So you got to play around moving the rotor befor you put it in so that it lines up with the #1 terminal ON TDC.Otherwise,you'll have to turn the dizzy to match.

yep, d0 what he said :nice:
 
Put the motor to TDC again, lined up and stabbed the dizzy. Here's a pic showing that at TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor and the #1 on the cap line up perfect (you can see the edge of the rotor below the cap)
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bluevenom867 said:
Ok,now if you can you need some one to try starting it while you turn the dizzy till it fires up.After that,get the timing light on it and set the timing.

Can I do that by jumping the starter solenoid with the ebrake on and the car in neutral without damaging anything?
 
Dohc32vMarkVIII said:
Can I do that by jumping the starter solenoid with the ebrake on and the car in neutral without damaging anything?

I think so,but it might be hard reaching over to the dizzy to turn,if you do becareful.Give the carb 2 pump shots by hand and crank away,also have a rag near by incase of a back fire.A fairly thick/oil free one at that,you want to smoother the flames,not catch the rag on fire,lol.
 
bluevenom867 said:
I think so,but it might be hard reaching over to the dizzy to turn,if you do becareful.Give the carb 2 pump shots by hand and crank away,also have a rag near by incase of a back fire.A fairly thick/oil free one at that,you want to smoother the flames,not catch the rag on fire,lol.

Hooked the plug wires up correctly, connected everything, gave the throttle a few pumps to get some gas in the carb, put the key ON and the shifter in neutral, and jumped the start solenoid contacts. Car cranked, backfired, and lit on fire. Put the fire in the carb out, cranked again, and just cranking, no nothing, even when turning the carb counter clockwise of clockwise, no difference :(

How the hell can this be so hard, it should be working! :mad:
 
I noticed in the pick that your vacuum advance isnt hooked up,hook that up and plug any unused ports in the carb.Check over it real throughly.

Also check over the manifold,re check the bolts just to make sure not water get in there.
 
bluevenom867 said:
I noticed in the pick that your vacuum advance isnt hooked up,hook that up and plug any unused ports in the carb.Check over it real throughly.

Also check over the manifold,re check the bolts just to make sure not water get in there.

Yeah I took the pic before I had everything hooked up, it's on now.
What do you mean recheck the bolts to make sure no water got in? I checked the bolts again last night, and they are all tight, Any quick way to check for water?
 
Dohc32vMarkVIII said:
Yeah I took the pic before I had everything hooked up, it's on now.
What do you mean recheck the bolts to make sure no water got in? I checked the bolts again last night, and they are all tight, Any quick way to check for water?

Well,if it leaks into your lifter valley,you'll have water in the oil.If it leaks into one of the intake ports,it will run really rough.But I dont think that your problem right now,just dont want it to be.

How about the carb?

Is the gasket a new one? Check the bolts on the base plate and make sure the foalt isnt stuck (tape it with a hammer).
 
bluevenom867 said:
Well,if it leaks into your lifter valley,you'll have water in the oil.If it leaks into one of the intake ports,it will run really rough.But I dont think that your problem right now,just dont want it to be.

How about the carb?

Is the gasket a new one? Check the bolts on the base plate and make sure the foalt isnt stuck (tape it with a hammer).

Hmm, I reused the old gaket as it wasn't torn or anything. What do you mean by the float being stuck? How do I check that? This is my first car that I've worked on with a caburetor (if you couldn't already tell)

Should I go and pick up a new carb gasket?
 
Dohc32vMarkVIII said:
Hmm, I reused the old gaket as it wasn't torn or anything. What do you mean by the float being stuck? How do I check that? This is my first car that I've worked on with a caburetor (if you couldn't already tell)

Should I go and pick up a new carb gasket?

The float sticks usualy if it has been sitting around to long.It would cause it to either get too much fuel or not enough and back fire.Just tap the bowl's lightly with a hammer to make sure it aint stickin.

And a new gaset wouldnt be a bad idea,could be a cheap problem solver.
 
Dohc32vMarkVIII said:
Also, could that little stone fuel filter being in backwards in the carb cause any of this?? I wasn't sure which way to put it in, so I just guessed :(

Dunno,but if your getting a fire,its got some fuel,so probably not.

You did make sure it wasnt flooded right?
 
which firing order are you using. use the ho order. if your car is a 5 spd. i still think it's 180 out. the rotor should point to the right towards 6 cylinder. i always put the timing pointer at 10 btdc and then drop the dizzy in. i don't care where the pointer points, i just swap the correct wire to it and start it up. it does not matter where the rotor point as long as you have the correct order and you wire it up in the correct direction. hey check your PMs. i need a test carb.
 
I went back outside, and used my new tool (1/4'' socket with two 6'' extensions TAPED together) and rotated the oil pump driveshaft. I then installed the dizzy with the rotor point as close to the rear of the car as I could get after about 20 tries.
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Also replaced the carb gasket and tightened them down as well. Now, while I was reconnecting the throttle cable, the idle pin on the carb just fell out! It doesn't seem to want to connect anywhere when I put it back and turn it around, just slides back out :( Is this fixable?? If it's not one thing, it's another, I don' think the car wants to move.
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