My suspension is currently stock on my mach and I want to lower it. Someone just suggested coilovers to me. What all would I need to make it work?
Maximum Motorsports front coilover kit installed. WOW!!!!
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Here is an excerpt from the MM FAQ page....
Q. How do I compare a front coil-over spring rate to a conventional spring in the stock location?
A. The spring rates must be converted into wheel rates. The wheel rate is the spring rate measured at the wheel. The conversion is done through the use of what's called the motion ratio. For a stock Fox Mustang front suspension, the wheel rate is 25% of the stock location spring's rate. For example, an 800 lb/in stock location spring has a wheel rate of 200 lb/in. For a coil-over suspension, the wheel rate is approximately 90% of the coil-over spring's rate. For example, a front coil-over spring rated at 350 lb/in would result in a wheel rate of about 315 lbs/in. Note: The exact motion ratio conversion of the wheel rate for a front coil-over suspension is determined by the angle of the strut. That angle is the result of the camber and caster settings, and by the SAI (Steering Axis Inclination).
Q. How do I compare a rear coil-over spring rate to a conventional spring in the stock location on my solid axle equipped Mustang?
A. As with front spring rates, rear spring rates must be converted into wheel rates. The wheel rate for the rear of a Mustang with a solid axle is approximately 50% of the stock location spring's rate. For example, a 200 lb/in stock location spring has a wheel rate of 100 lb/in. For a rear coil-over suspension, the wheel rate is approximately 110% of the coil-over spring rate (because the spring is actually behind the centerline of the axle). Also, because the shocks are mounted more outboard than the stock spring location, the rolling rate of the suspension is mildly increased. This helps to reduce understeer
Q. How do I compare a front coil-over spring rate to a conventional spring in the stock location?
A. The spring rates must be converted into wheel rates. The wheel rate is the spring rate measured at the wheel. The conversion is done through the use of what's called the motion ratio. For a stock Fox Mustang front suspension, the wheel rate is 25% of the stock location spring's rate. For example, an 800 lb/in stock location spring has a wheel rate of 200 lb/in. For a coil-over suspension, the wheel rate is approximately 90% of the coil-over spring's rate. For example, a front coil-over spring rated at 350 lb/in would result in a wheel rate of about 315 lbs/in. Note: The exact motion ratio conversion of the wheel rate for a front coil-over suspension is determined by the angle of the strut. That angle is the result of the camber and caster settings, and by the SAI (Steering Axis Inclination).
Q. How do I compare a rear coil-over spring rate to a conventional spring in the stock location on my solid axle equipped Mustang?
A. As with front spring rates, rear spring rates must be converted into wheel rates. The wheel rate for the rear of a Mustang with a solid axle is approximately 50% of the stock location spring's rate. For example, a 200 lb/in stock location spring has a wheel rate of 100 lb/in. For a rear coil-over suspension, the wheel rate is approximately 110% of the coil-over spring rate (because the spring is actually behind the centerline of the axle). Also, because the shocks are mounted more outboard than the stock spring location, the rolling rate of the suspension is mildly increased. This helps to reduce understeer
For the front you will need MM caster/camber plates, the coil over kit, & either Bilstien, Tokico, or Koni struts. Im not sure if the stock Mach 1 Tokicos will work though, but I dont think there stiff enough for coilovers. For the rear, Im not sure. Go to maximummotorsports.com for more info
WOW..... nice car.....
Where did you get those wheels??? Love them.....
Thanks... The wheels are FR500 replicas & I got mine @ lmperformance.com, but they sell them alot of places now. AmericanMuscle.com has them 2.
Thanks...I still mant it 2 look lik a Mach,but stand out a little. I still have the stock wheels sittin in storage for back up. Im not that fond of the Mach wheels unless there deep dish though, & even then I still dont care for them much. I couldnt get rid of them though 4 some reason. The wheel vintiques "Magnum 500" version are nice.
hotmustang331
Active Member
Nice! Im glad you like your coilover setup 
. Becuase mine REALLY amplifies any sudden bumps in teh road1.5 inch lip SOUNDS like I ran over a darn 4X4 block 
. I think its my CC plates though...I have steeda. I also have alot of popping under the front end...I also think thats my CC plates.
Oh and I have 175# springs up front with tokico illuminas 5 way drag shocks
. Suprisingly to ME it handles pretty darn good and is very neutral. I have the stock stuff outback, so im sure my wheel rates are all over the place front vs back. Heck for a long time I had the drag shocks set @ 1...softest. The handling was...iffy and definatly leaned alot....just by switching them to 5 its helped ALOT.
. Becuase mine REALLY amplifies any sudden bumps in teh road1.5 inch lip SOUNDS like I ran over a darn 4X4 block . I think its my CC plates though...I have steeda. I also have alot of popping under the front end...I also think thats my CC plates. Oh and I have 175# springs up front with tokico illuminas 5 way drag shocks
. Suprisingly to ME it handles pretty darn good and is very neutral. I have the stock stuff outback, so im sure my wheel rates are all over the place front vs back. Heck for a long time I had the drag shocks set @ 1...softest. The handling was...iffy and definatly leaned alot....just by switching them to 5 its helped ALOT.
What coil over kit do u have. The MM plates are the best, because they are the strongest & they are easy to work with.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Yeah, im meeting with the CA-Mustangs.com peeps before the meet at a place near by then rolling in all together - we make up the largest portion of the event
As for the suspension, i wish. I just put in all new shocks and springs.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Oh, i saw you posted in the main thread for the Gallop: here's a link to the meeting spot: http://www.ca-mustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?p=98569&posted=1#post98569
hotmustang331
Active Member
QA1 I believe. I bought an entire kit from modular depot...tubular K, coilovers, ect...and everything was PA racing except for the coilovers. I bought the CC plates seperate...and opted for the steeda over the MM because they were aluminum and the MM were steel. And where my mind was...weight
. Looking back I would sacrifise a few pounds to have my ride quality back.
You better get the MM ones soon, because those lightweight aluminum ones are gonna bend & distort your shock towers. Dunno if yours do, but the MM ones have 4 bolts instead of 3, so they evenly distribute the load into the shock towers. Mine dont make any noise at all.
281CI96Coupe
Member
- Oct 30, 2006
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IMO the ride quality improved, but it all depends on what spring rate u run. If u go from stock springs to the coilovers, yeah the ride gets harsher, but going from H&r supersports, it felt like it got better.
hotmustang331
Active Member
Mine are very strong..4 bolt and super thick...they are made to be used with coilovers I believe. I think its the bearing thats in the CC plate...I think it has slack in it and thats where my noise is coming from. 
I've been thinking of doing this myself. My front sits just a tiny bit too low for my area roads and i'd like to be able to raise it for regular driving and drop it for spirited driving. I'm thinking a MM K-member/A-arm and coilover are next on the to do list.
You do realize that any change in ride height after an alignment will require re-alignment, right?
Raising or lowering AFTER alignment wasn't the intended purpose.
I didnt get the coilovers with the intention of changing my ride height from time to time, I got them to get the exact ride height I wanted, plus better handling.
Of course if you change your ride height after alignment, you will have to align it again, because the camber & toe will be off.
Of course if you change your ride height after alignment, you will have to align it again, because the camber & toe will be off.
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