Flywheel and Clutch
Here's a good site with all the torque settings you'll need:
Mustang Torque Specs
I installed the flywheel and after the clutch was installed it dawned on me that I forgot to take pics of the install of them. sorry!
Before you go any further, install your block plate! You won't believe how many (myself included) forget this step and end up having to pull the entire clutch and flywheel back off to install it!
On the flywheel be careful! It'll go up there and "feel" like it won't come down on you, but it will and it weighs alot so if it hits you in the head it's gonna hurt like hell!
The flywheel will only go on one way so fit it on the crank and then turn the flywheel until ALL the holes line up. Make sure they do line up because it's a pain to start some bolts in and then realize the rest don't line up, then you have to pull the bolts back out and start over.
Now, I like to use Loctite toward the end of the bolts and a nice bead of RTV toward the head of the bolt. I don't like oil leaks and so far this method has served me well! The flywheel bolts are 19mm and get 75-85 FT-lbs of torque.
Make sure you have your 3 dowels installed on the flwheel before going on to the next step.
Now get your clutch kit and your pressure plate bolts ready. I like to use Loctite on my pressure plate bolts.
Get your clutch disk and pilot alignment tool and put the disk onto the flywheel making sure it's positioned with the flatter side toward the engnie. Then put the alignment tool through the disk and into the pilot bearing. It may or may not stay there on it's own, so make sure before you pull your hands away.
Now grab your pressure plate and align it with the 3 dowels on the flywheel. Take your bolts and start threading them into the flywheel. Once you have all of them started you can let go of the pressure plate and start snugging them down. I prefer to snug them down slowly going all the way around over and over till they're all tight, then torque them down. Be careful, these are all too easy to break!
Bellhousing and Transmission
Now you can install your bellhousing. 4 of your automatic bellhousing bolts will work, but the top two will have to be replaced. Ask for 7/16 x 1.5" bolts with lock washers. Get the bellhousing in place and install each of the bolts then torque them down.
Grab your clutch fork and put it through the side of the bellhousing. Now, with it backward you can slip the throwout bearing onto/into the fork. Then turn the fork around and engage it onto the pivot ball, make sure you use some grease either on the ball itself or where it contacts the fork.
Position the throwout bearing so it's a straight shot for the input shaft to go. You can check this by getting up there and looking down into the clutch assy.
Now get your transmission and set it on your jack. Do yourself a favor and put the trans in gear, this will help when stabbing it in the engine. Bring it under the car to where it's in line with the motor. Use some grease on the bearing retainer so the throwout bearing can ride smooth on it.
Start jacking the transmission up till it looks like it's right in line with the engine. then slide it slowly toward the behousing guiding the input shaft in. You may have to make slight adjustments with the jack to get it right. Once your comfortable that it's aligned right, push it the rest of the way in.
Now, more than likely this is where you'll start cursing the car! They hardly ever go right in the first try. If it stops short of being all the way in, first thing to check is the level of the trans. You can usually see by the gap between the bell and trans. If it's closer at the top, let the jack down a little, or vise versa.
If it still hasn't engaged the bellhousing all the way, start your transmission bolts a few threads, do NOT tighten them! Usually all 4 won't go right in, you'll have to twist and turn the trans slightly to get them started. By the time you have all 4 started, you can grab the rear of the trans and wiggle it side to side and the trans will magically slide in the rest of they way.
Now you can tighten the bolts the rest of the way down. They are 15mm bolts, and a swivel really helps out here!
Clutch cable and Firewall adjuster (if applicable)
Look at your firewall just above the brake booster toward the left, you'll see a rubber plug about 2" in diameter. Pull that plug out. Now, if you have a stock type cable, just put it in that hole. If you have a firewall adjuster, you'll have to put that into the hold then insert the modified cable (as per instructions that come with your kit) into the firewall adjuster.
Now climb under the dash and you'll see where the cable is coming through the firewall. Sometimes it'll get pushed between the insulation and the firewall so you'll have to reach up there and search for it. Once you find it, bring it around and hook it on the quadrant hook. I used the second hook on my quad. because I'm using a stock cable. This can be tedious work, but you'll get it!
Now go back to the engine bay and feed the cable down to the bottom. You'll see a little hole in the frame rail where the cable mounts, so get the cable close to that location. Then go under the car in the front and guid the cable between the engine and the K member, above the motor mount.
Then go under the car near the bellhousing on the driver side and slide the cable through the hole in the bellhousing. Then hook the cable into the fork. You may need to use a prybar to disengage the clutch a little to get the cable hooked on. If you have the little clip that goes to the clutch cable go ahead and put it on. If you have a cover and are using a stock cable you can throw it on now. If you're using an adjustable cable, wait till after this is all done and you've adjusted the cable before installing the cover.
Now, take your jack and start jacking up the rear of the transmission until it just kisses the body of the car. Get your crossmember and mounting hardware ready to go. If you're using a 94/95 setup and already have the 5 speed plate you can just install everything and be done. If you are using a fox trans or you only have an AODE plate, you'll have to drill some new holes and modify the transmission mount itself. Install the crossmember temporarily by just pushing the bolts through without the nuts. Now you can line up all the mounting items and see exactly where you need to drill your new holes. The holes are 1/2 " and you'll also need to aquire 2 extra 1/2" bolts (doesn't matter what threads) and two matching washers and nuts.
You'll be usuing your AODE bolts to mount the plate to the T5, then use your new bolts and nuts to bolt the trans mount to the plate itself. When this is all done you'll use the original 18mm bolts to bolt the mount to the crossmember. All this will become apparent when you try to line it all up. And the mount will have to be clearanced to clear the plate-trans bolts.
Now the tranmission is officially mounted into the car!
I used a Tawian socket to get the rest off without issue, go figure...
:SNSign:
