Need help wiring electric water pump!

dderek

New Member
Feb 29, 2004
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Doing a major rebuild on my car.
brand new 347. redoing ALL the wiring.
Old motor melted down due to the water pump not running (i wasnt driving). 100% driver fault.. not the water pump itself.. never got switched on.

Anyways
I Had the water pump wired to my switch panel in my ashtray, i flicked it on when i drove and off when i parked.

Now, to prevent that from happening again... Id like to wire it to turn on and off with the motor.. and still be able to manually turn it on with my ashtray if i want to cool off at the track.

Anybody have any clues how to do this? a relay diagram? where do i wire it for a key on/off with the motor.. i thought about the alternator which is a summit 100 amp.. i think that would fry it?

Its a mezzuire(sp?) pump with a idler pulley if that matters:shrug:


Thanks
Derek
 
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If using a SPDT/SPST relay, you could wire it up as follows:

Relay terminal:
30: Fused battery power.
85: ground.
86: accessory power.
87: goes to the pump's 12 volt input.

I'd run a switched wire from a battery source to terminal 86 on the relay. If you do this, on the first wire going to 86 you'd want a blocking diode to prevent backfeeding the donor accessory circuit.
 
use a test light and find a sutible power source. You can get power from the battery to run the pump, I would fuse it but thats up to you.. If you dont have a test light or a good understanding on the cars electrical system you may want to get a professional so nothing bad happens to your ride...
 
Bad things happen with electric water pumps on the street, regardless of whether it's the pump or your fault, still would never happen with a mechanical pump.
IMO, put a FMS pump on it and be done with it.
It really doesn't create all that much drag, especially since you obviously have an electric fan.
 
what type of bad things?

You don't turn the pump on and you ruin the engine.
Exacly what he did in the first place.
Or the pump burns out because they don't last for crap, and you burn up the engine.

If a belt driven pump goes, you know it, if an electric goes unless you got an eye on the temp gauge, you are in trouble.
 
see, this is all the stupid **** i saw when i searched the forums
nothing but people trying to talk other people out of buying an electric water pump.
and nothing on wiring them or anything praising them.

my car ran perfect with an electric pump for over a year.
never broke 180F. beating on it whatever.
the engine going wasnt the water pumps fault it was the person who used my car without permission 100%.

id use a multi meter and test wires myself.
except the car is in 100 pieces right now, and in no electrical shape to have a battery in it. in progress of moving ground, rerouting wires etc.

i just want to wire my water pump better, thought somebody would have some cool ideas.
 
I have mine wired with a Moroso thermostatic switch and a toggle override. The problem with this is I have to cycle it on and off while the engine is warming up because the water close to the cylinders is hot and the water in the intake at the switch is cold. The only way that setup would work properly is if you had the switch in the water jackets near a cylinder which would be the hottest. The way it is now when you kick the pump on the temp gauge spikes up and then comes back down. There used to be a dc controller just for fans and water pumps which looked like a good setup. I think it limited power to the pump at low temps and would give full power at higher temps. That way the water is always circulating which would eliminate hot spots.
 
dude, all you ever do is tell people they are stupid for having a specific product, IT DOES NOT ****ING MATTER IF YOU LIKE IT!!!! Its what he has to work with, and it prolly works better than what you have, so if you dont have any constructive imput in the thread, why post?
It's a forum, relax dude.

Telling him to use a real water pump is not constructive?
He'll save money, and never have to worry about melting down another engine.
Let's see, an electric water pump is $300, a stock replacement pump is like $50.
I bet he could make triple the power he was saving with the E pump, using that extra $250 towards other better parts.
And he doesn't have to do it if he doesn't want to.

BTW, i never said he was stupid.
But, you think putting a water pump on a toggle switch is a was a good idea?
If someone told him not to do it in the first place, he wouldn't be rebuilding his engine. It doesn't matter who's fault it was, it would not of happened in the first place if it were done right.

How about this, you can be the forum yes man, and i'll be the no man.
Somebodies got to balance out some of the dumb advice people give on this forum.

I've been doing this a long time, you can trust my opinion if you like, and if you don't want to, that's ok too.
There's plenty of cars and ideas on the forum i do actually like, but there is no point in me interjecting, since they already got it right, and normally those guys only post helping others not asking questions.
 
that electric water pump is awesome.
it flows 50 gallons a minute. way more than any belt driven pump even at 6,000rpms.
and it flows 50 at idle, or whatever rpm im at.. even with the car turned OFF.

the only reason the car melted down was when i was out of town for 3-4 days and my drunk brother took my spare keys and did whatever with my car because he was pissed at me. he was going to damage it one way or another anyway:shrug:

and no, im not putting a belt pump back on.
why spend more money and swap more parts when it worked great except a mishap that wasnt related to the pump itself.

yes i took the lazy route and just put switched power on it.
i should have did it correctly in the first place but i didnt.
theres so many fail safes you can rig up with lights turning on etc when the pump isnt running and motor is

thats like saying electric fans are dangerous and belt fans are fail safe.

i did the math on the expected hourly life of the water pump
and with regular use few hours here and there it turned out to be 3-4 years if i remember right.

and i ran the pump on the street for over a year.. and never had one problem.
in fact my temp has never been so rock solid at 180F since ive owned it.



Now.
Does anybody have any wiring tips, ideas or suggestions?
Looks like nothing but critisism so ill just put a really long wire on the pump before i wrap and loom all my wires... then once the car is completely wired ill just multi meter things on my own and find a spot for it