So I been lurking the forum for a while just reading and reading trying to figure this out. I have a 87 notchback that ive owned for about 2 weeks. When I got it, no problems started fine. I swapped for a bigger throttle body and cold air intake now having problems starting. I replaced cap, rotor, coil, plugs, ignition module, reset timing, seafoamed the car after I replaced the plugs it fired up fine and that was the last time. It will start with starter fluid and stay running and I can drive it without issue. When I was resetting the timing and spinning the distributor I got shocked a couplw times from my hand ontop of the dist. Dunno if that is normal. When I ran my eec koeo I got codes: 22, 23, 85, 96 when I did my koer it popped 6cyl then codes 21, 23, 12. I am not surr what to do at this point just very frustrated. Any help is much appreciated.
New Owner W/ Problems Neex Input
- Thread starter tom rubenstein
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jcgafford
10 Year Member
You need to look at BOTH salt and pepper shakers. They are two large connectors that WERE attached to your intake plenum. They connect the engine bay wiring harnesses to the EEC and the rest of the body harness. It looks to me like they are either not properly connected or perhaps you have bent/missing pins, or have damaged the harness somewhere.
You should also not be getting shocked by the dizzy unless you have a bad ground, or bad plug wires/boots. Doesn't really matter if they new or not. Brand new wires can be junk right out of the box. Even and especially, FMS wires.
You should also not be getting shocked by the dizzy unless you have a bad ground, or bad plug wires/boots. Doesn't really matter if they new or not. Brand new wires can be junk right out of the box. Even and especially, FMS wires.
jcgafford - thank you, I have the codes but this will definently help being on the phone. I don't have a computer at home so sometimes I can't open certain things everything is done through my phone.
Noobz347 - I finally got the car started by replacing the throttle position sensor. Only throwing code 12 now which is saying my idle is too high. When I checked my timing at idle it appears I'm ~10 degrees advanced. I noticed 2 timing marks. There is a straight white line and what appears to be a man made hash mark. I'll have to check out the salt and pepper shakers.. I bought a Chilton so I am trying to learn everything I can and appreciate the input. I was converted over from the Volkswagen world this is quite a bit different. Especially how much cheaper the parts are, haha.
I am semi-convinced my TOB is going out but I can't be 100% sure. I hear a very faint "squeak, squeak, squeak* while its running and any type of pressure applied to the clutch pedal even lightly pressing on it with 1 finger will take the noise away. I am not sure if that is the throwout bearing or bad clutch cable adjustment. Any input would be appreciated. I am pretty sure I am running the stock clutch cable and am not looking to cut the plate or the hook. Is there anyway I can slip a type of grommet behind the the stopper in the firewall to help out is that a completely bad idea?
Btw, I appreciate any and all input from you guys.
Noobz347 - I finally got the car started by replacing the throttle position sensor. Only throwing code 12 now which is saying my idle is too high. When I checked my timing at idle it appears I'm ~10 degrees advanced. I noticed 2 timing marks. There is a straight white line and what appears to be a man made hash mark. I'll have to check out the salt and pepper shakers.. I bought a Chilton so I am trying to learn everything I can and appreciate the input. I was converted over from the Volkswagen world this is quite a bit different. Especially how much cheaper the parts are, haha.
I am semi-convinced my TOB is going out but I can't be 100% sure. I hear a very faint "squeak, squeak, squeak* while its running and any type of pressure applied to the clutch pedal even lightly pressing on it with 1 finger will take the noise away. I am not sure if that is the throwout bearing or bad clutch cable adjustment. Any input would be appreciated. I am pretty sure I am running the stock clutch cable and am not looking to cut the plate or the hook. Is there anyway I can slip a type of grommet behind the the stopper in the firewall to help out is that a completely bad idea?
Btw, I appreciate any and all input from you guys.
This just sounds like your clutch is out of adjustment. Fox TOBs are designed to spin whenever the motor is spinning. If it's very feint, that may very well be the face of the TOBs lightly scraping on the pressure plate fingers. The TOB should be mated (in contact with) to the PP surface at all times.
Not yet, I am not 100% sure its my TO bearing. I will drive it tonight with a video camera recording and see if possibly it can be heard over that. It started squeaking when I started it up. Drove it around for a bit no more squeaking, after some hard driving it starting squeaking then got quieter. Once I pulled in to park it got louder and I shut the car off. Once I get the turn signals working thats my next big task besides reinstalling the molding and interior pieces.
Have you put any additional tension on the clutch cable? I would do that first and THEN start it up.
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