Next Mod...(help me out plz)

Ok, i have my next mods planned out but am considering what's after these.

1. Upper Control Arms, Lower Control Arms
2. MGW Shifter

I am looking to add more HP but honestly have no clue what can be done aside from a Power Adder.


What I've currently got:
4.10's, C&L CAI, Predator Tune, O/R-H Pipe, Steeda Axle-Back, Steeda UDP's and MT ET Street DR's.

What I do NOT want:
Headers - I refuse to spend the $$$ on headers as they give very little gains in RWHP.

CMDP's - I am still sketpical about these. I was told by Scott Beer (Formet Head Tuner @ DiabloSport and likely the best Ford tuner in South Florida) that the CMDP's are a "waste" on my car.

Road Racing Mods - I'll never take this car on a road race track (no interest) and intend to keep it a nice ET Drag car with Street drivability.

Adjustable suspension goodies that allow you to tune for the street or the strip and see improvements in each. As far as more HP...the cheapest way woud be juice. Yes, I know it's a power adder, but at least you decide when to use it, not each and every time you push the gas pedal. Easy way to get 75-100 horses and maintain complete streetability. Possibly even a good set of cams.

Yeah Kool, I am totally considering a Nitrous Pro-Flow kit

First think of what your goals are. Your next mods at this point would be either a Super or Turbo charger or some internal motor work.

Delete plates are great THEY AREN"T A WASTE, you would love them. Obviously you would need a retune, since you have a predator I would use BAMAchips or a known good Predator tuner. I feel that headers are great(Longtubes not shorties), even better if you plain on nitrous or supercharger. They are okay on NA cars, headers will make a larger difference if you have other bolts ons. I would still recommend them for an NA car.

Don't forget an aluminum driveshaft. They are suppose to be good for 15-18 rwhp. I bought a spydershaft for $500 shipped but I haven't installed it yet.

i would get the upper and lca's. but if i were you i would keep some extra money in the account for the clutch upgrade. if you do the upper and lca's with your drag radials you will be launching you car at 5000 rpm's. the stock clutch does not like that for long. but since you are doing the clutch get the aluminum flywheel and the driveshaft. the amount of rotational mass that you loose can be like gaining 10rwhp. i did the shifter for the second mod, and now i hate driving stock shifted cars. i hope this helps you a little.

I thought you were getting a Kenne Bell.

You will waste money on a CAI but won't on the CMCV deletes? The CMCV deletes are a better bang for the buck than a CAI is. I know because I have both a CAI and the CMCV deletes.

I intend to show next year what a JLT CAI, C&L Racer CAI and Steeda CAI show for gains over a tuned car as I have all 3 CAI's and currently have the JLT on my car. I stand behind my comments earlier that a CAI is worthless. Even more so now that I have one on the car.

I would look at LCA relocation brackets AKA Anti-Squats and a panhard bar and brace. A light weight drive shaft is good, the Spydershaft is what I have.

Like I said, I was told by an ex-Ford employee / ex-head tuner of DiabloSport that CMDP's are worthless on N/A cars. Going by his word since he's pretty much the Holy Bible of tuning here in South Florida.

Does anyone have pre & post CMDP Dyno #'s for their cars? I'd be interested in them still if someone can show me some nice gains.

I have seen graphs of 8 - 11 RWHP gained with CMCV deletes on N/A cars. I don't have the time to track them down.

I have seen Scott Beer wrong before. Last I checked up on him, he started learning from the holy bible of tuning newer fords( Jerry Wrobleski ). JW is also a former Ford engineer and former owner of SCT. He is the main reason SCT was far better than DiabloSport when it came to tuning the 2005 Mustangs properly. This was very noticeable when these cars first came out. With JW having left SCT, DiabloSport has been able to catch up...

Who said I was referring to scott beer?

I keep hearing mixed opinions on the CMDP's and until I see dyno #'s I won't be totally comfortable. I know for a fact I will be getting a Nitrous Pro Flow kit come X-Mas time so that is something I need to consider.

Just for reference, my goals...

1. I want 12's N/A, obviously I will have that goal accomplished very soon. Hopefully tomorrow night.
2. Spraying a moderate shot w/ the Nitrous Pro Flow kit. I'm thinking a 100 shot
3. Saving up for a Hellion Turbo kit

You did.

If you are going to add Nitrous or a Turbo kit, you are better off going with the CMCV deletes. You can get them with the Nitrous injection ports in them.

Personally I would set up the suspension and drive train first before any big mods. I am thinking of adding a Powerhouse Turbo kit for my car. I will make that decision when I see how the car responds to the improved suspension and lighter driveshaft next spring.

Most the research I have done on them shows 6 - 10 at most.

I would think that there is a mild performance gain, but the largest aspect to consider is the mechanics of the design. Since the delete plates remove the butterfly shaft design there is less of a statistical probability that modifications to the intake path will cause bending of a butterfly and that causing a closing off of a cylinder forcing all of the airflow into a few cylinders. aka: BOOM....

anticuble, if you decide to go with the Nitrous, you may want to consider the delete plates at that time. The Steeda Billet Charge Motion Control Plates w/ N2O Fitting Holes are ideal for the application and you will not need to worry about butterfly failure.

Here is a Dyno of someone's run with the plates. Most who have replaced them have stated they are not that big of a performance deal for the $. That they true reason for the swap is preparation for additional intake modifications for S/C or N2O applications.




Good luck with hitting the 12's. I'm routin' for ya'.


TGJ - We are in TOTAL agreement on these points. You beat me to the submit button. hahahaha

Thanks TGJ and Jenn. Appreciate it.

As for the Nitrous + Plates, I doubt I'll be spraying through the plates but rather going through the intake elbow. In fact I'd like to get the throttle body spacer so I can spray through that w/o altering my intake (JLT arrives tomorrow and the C&L is bye bye).

Come Xmas I'll have the kit and all of the goodies that will help (window switch, bottle warmer, remote bottle opener, blow down tube, purge, pillar gauge)

And thx for the support on 12's. I pulled the 13.015 on a 1.7 60' last Sunday in the heat at 2:30PM. South Florida weather sucks for drag racing....I'm confident I'll get it tomorrow night.

How many of us have spent the same amount of money or more on mufflers with the same or less increase in power I'd say go ahead and get the plates. It will still be 6-10 more HP than before

Sounds like you have done your research and I respect that. When considering N2O injection, there is more than one way to accomplish the goal. So long as you are aware of the pros and cons to each (and I believe you are, my friend) then all is good in the modification world.

Yes, high humidity and temps never make for a strong run. Good luck. How is your reaction time?

Well Dawg, what you do and what anti wants to do are totally different things. I believe that removing the butterfly design is superior and safer, but it is not my call. Do the 2008s have the charge motion control design still? I heard rumors that Ford was considering removing the design 08ish.

Agreed. I dropped $400 on my Axle-Back and I'm sure it gave me no more than a couple RWHP if that.

The Control Arms are definitely coming first though! It'll be nice to get my 60 foot times into the 1.6's

My R/T's are all over the place. It's funny though, the runs where I sit at the tree I seem to get the best times while on the other hand when I focus on the tree and get good R/T's my ET's end up being crappy. (It's like I can't walk & chew gum at the same time LOL.)

Best R/T to date is a .011

Men and multi-tasking ....