NOT GOOD!!! MY CAR RUNS AT 230 DEGREES
- Thread starter 88mustng
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Michael Yount
Mustang Master
oh yeah - forgot about that one.Michael Yount said:
Michael, the way threads are going lately, you better be careful. pretty soon we are gonna have people saying that they like to let the car overheat to get the most performance (with the extra fuel dump and richness it brings).
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
raph - the stock radiator is fine WHEN IT'S NEW. The problem is that they're all 10-15 years old now - and at that age the majority of them are shot, so clogged with mineral deposits that they're effectiveness is extremely reduced.
I'm not saying the problem is his radiator; but if it's original, I'd bet it's contributing to the problem.
I'm not saying the problem is his radiator; but if it's original, I'd bet it's contributing to the problem.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
"the engine can handle almost 300* before smoking and damage occurs"
Alright everyone - this is the advice we've all been waiting for.
Alright everyone - this is the advice we've all been waiting for.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
raph130 said:
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh brother.
Anyway... now that we know that old worn our radiators are just as good as brand new ones
NOT. Just ONE of the things that I think Mike is referring to, I referenced above. Have you checked inside of the thing yet for buildup? I refer to that buildup as "scale" but it is in fact, the mineral deposits that Mike is talking about. There are several different products out there that are used to reduce or remove this scale but I've found that if the radiator is either very old or has allot of buildup then it's better just to replace the thing and be done with it. Over time, the disimilar metals in the cooling system actually corrode the exposed surfaces inside of the radiator and it's just not worth it to try and breathe new life into an otherwise old radiator.Another thought about your cooling problem though:
You ever been in any sort of front end fender bender? If so... Is your current water pump the one that was in the car when it happened? The reason that I ask is that a few years ago I had a pretty mild front ender that actually managed to break a couple of the vanes off of the water pump impeller. You could not tell form the outside that the pump was damaged. I've also seen instances where the impeller on "cheap" replacement pumps were affixed to the shaft in such a way that the shaft was able to spin without the vanes turning. Those kinds of pumps seem to be rare though.
Raph, remember correlation is not causation; just because you have had good luck with something does not mean it is a hard and fast rule. radiators do clog up, esp if neglected or hard water is used. scale and deposits form and adhere to the radiator in a way that usually makes it hard to get it near 100% again. let alone tubes splitting and rusting through.raph130 said:
so, as with your fan issue, im happy that it works for you. using the same fan analogy, just because it works for you (your fan clutch is shot), does not mean that it will work for everyone. i think you would agree with that.
your first sentiments: i would be very careful with blanket statements. i disagree and will leave it at that.raph130 said:
the stock gauges are hysteretic - barely more than idiot lights. mine does not move from 180*-225*. i would not base any conclusion on those gauges. i guess that is just me. I am very anal about knowing what is going on exactly inside the motor.
as an aside, you note that you dont have a problem with coolant temps of 230. the motor oil would likely be running around 280-300, depending upon how hard the car was being driven. i certainly would not let conventional oil (what is recommended for our cars, as far as i know) run for any period at those temps. again, probably just me.
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