Is this - push-rod - N.A. - street-able within 90% of the world's definition: 1. No bucking below 2000 RPM. 2. Good power BELOW 3000 RPM. 3. Does not rev past 3000 RPM on bway at reasonable speeds. 4. If you have a set up that revs lower: it does not BUCK AND has good power on the bway in top gear. 5. Cam lope not excessive. Like over .580 lift and you fail the definition most likely. 6. Does not require octane boost of any sort. 7. Does not require drag radials. Did we miss anything? If you do not fall into this category and think your car is set up for street then you are prolly a quarter miler at heart. But if so what is your justification based on your set up? Thanks. :SNSign:
could gas mileage be added in there? If a car is gettin down in the single digits, i would say its not very streetable.....i dunno, just throwin it out there...
My deffintion of streetable is different than most. As long as the car can drive 30-75 miles without filling up with gas(dont care what octain) and does not overheat. For the most part I guess you could say mine is similar to FFW True Street Voted No
i voted for yes, but add a few items, but I'd actually rather remove the drag radial stipend. I don't think the tire combo has much of a bearing on the street ability of a car. granted drag radials are not good in the rain but in reality you said a street car not a daily driver. so based on the street concept it wouldn't need to be driven in the rain so right there it isn't a requirement. Otherwise i'd agree with the sentiments. my .02 EDIT: Holy run on sentence batman! fixed
It has to idle fine on its own and needs to pull enough vacuum to run the important accessories. It has to have accessories, like A/C and Powersteering. Especially if you live in the south and drive in big city traffic like I do. For the most part, overlap causes the "lope", not lift. High lift/Low duration is typically more street friendly than vice versa. With those people that have other rides to fall back on, there definition of street friendly characteristics are more lenient. Been there, done that. There is more, but I will wait until later if need be.
as long at it has an alternator, radial tires, pump gas, and is able to make a 100 mile trip with a gas stop, doesnt overheat is 100 degree weather in stop and go traffic, its good to me. no rediculous converters or clutches either. to me, i define the rediculous clutch as the "on/off" types and no converter that will chirp tires when you take off
Thanks guys. 5 spd your knowledge is astounding. Thanks for the contributions. I learn something new all the time.
indeed. i live in baton rouge louisiana so i love my a/c. gotta have heat too. winter get surprisingly chilly here
If it were a newly built long block, I'd feel inclined to add that it should be good for no less than 100k miles (i.e. factory reliability). That's just me though.
Sure I'll throw in my thoughts But first ... I'll say it without pulling any punches Talking OEM block and typical H/C/I NA combo at 300 rwhp give or take a few If you think you can pick this or that ............ Pair of heads Camshaft Intake Size of injectors Size of throttle body Size of meter And obtain stock or near stock like drivability with an untouched OEM pcm ... It ain't gonna happen That kind of thinking keeps comming up over and over so I just wanted to lay it out there and maybe help some not have expectations that will never be obtained 1) I like the idea of NO bucking which I got with a tune 2) Good power below 3K ... Well ... That leaves too much to opinion as I see it ... I gotta see someones Dyno curves to know what they REALLY have achieved. If I had to explain it without the curves ... I'd want 300 lbs before 3K 3) Between 70 & 80 mph ... Most ratios are gonna meet that criteria 4) I guess I don't understand the revs lower one Good power in high gear ... again ... Dyno curves make it all too clear 5) I don't know how far to go with what would be excessive I guess you can use the link in my sig to hear my little GT at idle and tell me I can tell you before I worked with the tune ... It was much, much worse 6) I run 93 grade for the most power I can run 91 but I gotta back down the spark and loose power 7) I don't run them ... If it breaks loose ... Thats half the fun as I see it Gas Milage ... I can get 19 on trips at a cruise speed of 70-80 MPH Just some of the stuff I've found with my 95 Grady
my definition of streetable is like this .. starts right up, either cold or hot idles on its own with no surging or searching, cold or hot no pinging ever no bucking ever all accessories present and working passes emisisons no drone not overly loud at idle or light throttle WOT can be as loud as you want highway cruising rpms below 2500 rpm average of 200 miles per tank in 50/50 city/highway driving it can (and probably will) have a custom tune to help meet the above criteria tires and cam lift or duration can be anything, so long as the above are met am i there? not, but i'm working on it ... it's all in the tune
I dont agree w/ #7 as far as requiring drag radials. Lots of cars dont need drag radials but run them regardless.
Interestingly my car has 180* thermostat and programmed fans. It never goes past the o and 90% times stays at the "n" IIRC. That's all in the tune as well.
QM'er My requirements for streetability: 1) Drive to and from track with a full day of racing in between (for me roughly 30miles roundtrip). 2) No wrenching or cooling off in between rounds at the track required. 3) Passes emissions....required in my county. If where you live doesn't require emissions then disregard. 4) Able to seat at least two people. Its nice to take the lady for a ride to see what I spend time and money on away from her. 5) Police don't know me by my first name. i.e. don't get pulled over routinely for noise, tint, etc. That's pretty much it :SNSign:
That sounds more like the definition of a daily driver than streetable. I don't drive my Mustang everyday, but it is totally streetable. Kurt
We've got a streetable vs. daily driver definition issue for sure. Streetable in my county (emissions) is different than 30 miles over in the next county (no emissions). I'd see streetable more as: Good Idle when cold, warm, and hot Engine never bucks or surges Better than 10 mpg in the city Able to drive 100 miles without stopping or other problems Power can be in any RPM range, but MUST allow for typical city driving No overheating allowed Suspension and brakes are safe for street use Dialy Driver: All of the above, plus...... Idles at less than 1K rpm Better than 12mpg Legal tires Pass emissions (if needed) All accessories are present Power steering Able to drive 150 miles without stopping or problems and repeat after a fill up. Legal exhaust Close to stock interior (or at least resembling that fact) Clutch or shift kit is capable and comfortable for driving in heavy traffic for an hour. Something along those lines?
