Oil in antifreeze, but no antifreeze in the oil

FordRacing302

5 Year Member
Oct 1, 2005
384
42
59
Cleveland, TN
Heres the situation...I just went through this motor. The shortblock was untouched out of a 96 explorer without 100,000 miles (or so the guy said)...The heads are GT40ps that have been checked for cracks, surfaced and had a valve job done, and its had all new gaskets. Other than that, the only things aftermartket are the cam/springs/intake/carb...So that being said, I have not driven the car yet since the rebuild, just started it a few times...I flushed the cooling system before putting in new antifreeze, and started the car today with the cap off to burp the system, and all that came out was basically peanut butter, but Ive checked the oil dipstick and oil cap and they're clean...Any idea on what might cause this???
 
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Cracked block at an oil passage? The oil runs at alot more pressure than the coolant system so it would make sense for the oil to seep into the coolant and not the other way around?


This reminds me of when I was sold a junk 455 when I was 16... douchebag
 
Cracked block at an oil passage? The oil runs at alot more pressure than the coolant system so it would make sense for the oil to seep into the coolant and not the other way around?


This reminds me of when I was sold a junk 455 when I was 16... douchebag

That's what Im starting to think...Im about ready to keep the good parts off this car and scrap the rest
 
Rent a cooling system pressure tester. With the engine cold and OFF, pressurize the system with coolant still in everything. Fifteen psi is enough. Let it sit with pressure. Make sure to let it stay pressurized for several hours. Sometimes when I do this at work, I'll have to come back a couple times to pump it back up. If there is a crack somewhere in an oil passage that leads to coolant, with no oil pressure (engine off) coolant will seep into the oil. After a couple hours, I'll drain the oil. If water comes out first...there is obviously a leak somewhere. Don't a couple of water pump bolts go through into water? I know they're supposed to be "blind" but occasionally the wrong bolt gets threaded in, which busts out the back of the threads and there's where oil can get into the water.
 
I dont really understand this, the pressure test is going to tell me what I already know...I already know that engine oil is getting into my cooling system, so what the point of pressure testing?? What I need to know is if it is a leaky head gasket, a cracked block or a leak in the timing cover, Is there anyway to pinpoint the leak without tearing it apart???
 
I know you don't want to hear this... but either way you will have to pull everything apart if it's the timing cover gasket/intake gasket or headgasket. So why not replace all the stuff in one pop... because it may be a leaking headgasket and just replace all the gaskets while you are doing the headgaskets.Then you will not have to think twice about it when you are done. And while you are at it ..it maybe a good ideal to replace the timing chain.
 
I know you don't want to hear this... but either way you will have to pull everything apart if it's the timing cover gasket/intake gasket or headgasket. So why not replace all the stuff in one pop... because it may be a leaking headgasket and just replace all the gaskets while you are doing the headgaskets.Then you will not have to think twice about it when you are done. And while you are at it ..it maybe a good ideal to replace the timing chain.

I guess you didn't read the first post, I have already replaced every gasket...The engine has maybe 30 minutes of run time since it was put back in the car...Im pretty sure its a cracked block because that the only thing that was untouched when it was built...I think its time for some K & W block seal
 
Doesnt mean something didnt happen with the top end rebuild you just did.

From a engine builders prospective, no way would I use block seal or bars leak, its horrible on a motor.
 
I guess you didn't read the first post, I have already replaced every gasket...The engine has maybe 30 minutes of run time since it was put back in the car...Im pretty sure its a cracked block because that the only thing that was untouched when it was built...I think its time for some K & W block seal

Even the easiest of things get messed up.Like installing new gaskets.Id say if your so set on it being a cracked block why not just pick up another short block?These 302's go for dirt cheap out by me.
 
Did you have this oil in the antifreeze problem before you replaced the headgaskets and all other gaskets. I did read some of the post before when you said that the heads were checked for cracks...and you said since the rebuild the car has not been driven like that. I think your problem may be the gaskets are not sealed and may need to be retorqued ...like the headgaskets and lower intake the gasket. Was the car running hot before or was oil in the antifreeze before the rebuild? and was the car blowing white smoke?