Outlet. What voltage? Pics

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I'm not sure which breaker goes to that outlet. So I can't be sure what is on it. The wire I'm not sure either, the wire was PAINTED black, along with the post its mounted to. The max ampers output by the welder is 225. Or do you mean from the outlet, how much will it draw?

http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e230.pdf

that has all the information stuff I get lost with.
 
***edit*** 10 wire is not to exceed 60amps if its copper... not to exceed 20 amps if its aluminum, or copper clad aluminum... Now copper 220 wires were used a long time ago, romex is generally the only wire that is used copper... if your not sure i would not do it. either look for your self or have someone look at it!.. if you want to turn every in the house off and take it apart and strip a little peice out, myself or 2000xp8 could point that out for you. i origanlly said no because new/newer 10 wire is only rated at 20amps.. now that i double checked my ugly's electrial referance things haved changed!
 
The tab is the max rating of the receptable, not it's actual voltage.


Looks like a 220V 20A receptacle to me. The 220 30A receptable has an L-shaped ground slot.

Do you have a 2-pole breaker in the panel??


One of these bad larrys
FL-BR-2-pole.jpg



That's a pretty standard receptacle. WHile i can't vouch that is is 220/20A since i didn't install it, it looks like the typical style
 
it looks like 14-2 (white) because 12-2 is yellow... but older wire ive seen 12-2(white


You can get romex in different colors. I've seen blue and gray romex before. But you are right about colors. 14 gauge is white, 12 is yellow and 10 is orange....but this is not the case. If the romex is old.....it's all white. Colors make it easy but don't depend on them. Read the insulation


For that receptacle it should be 10 gauge...but who knows if it was done correctly.
 
The outlet face has some writing on it. What does it say?? Some of the outlets have the rating on the face and that will at least let you know what the rating is. After that locate the breaker that controls the outlet . Remove either the panel cover or remove the outlet and figure out what the gauge of the wire. Proper sized breaker is a must. The gauge of the wire will dictate the size of the breaker. A oversized breaker will not trip in the case of a problem and will allow the wiring to burn or melt . A 30 amp breaker with #12 wire will not trip and allow the wire (which is reated for 20 amps) to melt or burn before the breaker ever senses a problem. This issue is more of a problem in certain panels or fuse boxes. Just my 2 cents and I hope you will get this figured out.
 
They switched colors for the inspectors sake.

Don't get caught up in breaker voltage.
Doesn't really matter in terms of residencial.

Question that matters is does the breaker take up one spot in the panel or two.
 
They switched colors for the inspectors sake.

Don't get caught up in breaker voltage.
Doesn't really matter in terms of residencial.

Question that matters is does the breaker take up one spot in the panel or two.

Licenced NJ Master electrican? Im not doubting that, but with that statement alone you have my intrest on wheter you would like to help or not. It matters in residencial or where ever you use the item. You have alot of good pionts in your previous threads, but lets not forget the NEC is there for a good reason. This has become more of a debate about who knows more and the focus of the question has been lost. Maybe the best step is to seek a professional local electrcian for advise. We are trying to guess via the internet and 1 picture as to the safety and purpose of the outlet.
 
Licenced NJ Master electrican? Im not doubting that, but with that statement alone you have my intrest on wheter you would like to help or not. It matters in residencial or where ever you use the item. You have alot of good pionts in your previous threads, but lets not forget the NEC is there for a good reason. This has become more of a debate about who knows more and the focus of the question has been lost. Maybe the best step is to seek a professional local electrcian for advise. We are trying to guess via the internet and 1 picture as to the safety and purpose of the outlet.

My point is that you guys are making a very simple situation confusing for the original poster.

Whether it is has 220 or 240 volts, its still the same in a house.

Very simply, if the breaker uses up two locations consider it 220.
If it uses up 1 space consider it 110v.

From the looks of the outlet and the wire, it's got 2 hots (220v) and a ground.
If it had 4 prongs for the outlet it would be 2 hots a neutral and a ground. But still considered 220v.
To be 100% sure, all he has to do is see in the panel if the white and the black from the same wire are both going to breakers, meaning no colored wire will be going to the neutral bar.

When he goes to the store he just needs to pick up a single or double pole breaker, they aren't going to ask him to specify whether it's 220v or 240v because it's the same breaker if it's a 2 pole (breaker that takes up 2 spots).

Depending on the transformer going to a house it really can be either 220v or 240v or sometimes even inbetween, that's why the breakers and usually the item being used are designed for both in one unit.

Don't believe me? Goto home depot, look at the breakers. Different brands and single and double poles, but the 220v and 240vs are all the same.