Well ever since i changed my set up from the cobra intake and 19lb injectors and 65mm tb and 73mm pro-m maf to the Edelbrock performer extrude honed upper/lower 24lbs 70mm tb and c&l 76mm maf I have had nothing but problems!! I have no vaccuum leaks and when the car first starts up and is cold it runs awesome.It's when the car starts to come to temperature, get hesitation ,it starts to ping and I get oil smoke coming into the interior.I have no clue why I am having so many problems so any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
problems problems problems
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First thing that comes to me is the CL meter...Have you tried clocking it?? Those are known to be fussy on positioning... Rotate it 45 deg and see what happens...
Pull a plug...what does it look like?? Always a good indicator of fuel ratio since you changed things up.
Is the temp gage reading Hot??
Is the smokin from a possible oil leak out back on the lower intake??
Pull a plug...what does it look like?? Always a good indicator of fuel ratio since you changed things up.
Is the temp gage reading Hot??
Is the smokin from a possible oil leak out back on the lower intake??
The car runs on R so it's not out of the ordinary. The plugs didn't have a lot of black crap on them but they were kinda corroded,I changed them last in oct' 05, so they could stand to be changed they're ngk iridium. And the oil smoke might be a bad rear main seal but i don't understand why it only does it when it gets hot.I did rotate the maf,it wasn't in there straightso it's all lined up.I thought it might have something to do with egr too,so maybe a custom tune to get rid of egr I don't know.The pinging when it's at normal operating temp is really what bothers me the most.
Plugs are cheap money...throw some Motorcrafts in there...
The main is prolly leaking as the oil gets thinner when hot...easier to leak out. The rear main is an easy fix on these...Its a one pc seal...I change that if its pissing out that much oil...
Whats your timing set at?? If its pinging, at the minimum back it down..
I would move that MAF in small increments and see if you can find the sweet spot, since it ran fine before I would think the MAF clocking??
The MAF is cal'd to those 24's??
Did you see if you have an EGR code stored?
Trouble shooting sucks...you gotta start with basics...
The timing is set at 14* so i will back it down to about 12.I run 52lbs of fuel pressure the guy who set it had it at like 45lbs,I noticed a difference right away after i changed it.I had a bad tps after I changed it i had the code wiped out on that.I do need to get it on a diagnostic and see what codes its spitting out and go from there.troubleshooting does suck but I thank you for the help.eventually i will get it worked out.And yes the MAF is calibrated for the 24's all you do is change the tube.
I'd back that timing off to 10...I wont kill the pinging but is better than detonating like that...Mine never stopped pinging til I swapped heads...Never heard it again..
Your F/P is crazy....They must have tweaked it up with that other intake set-up?? I would drop it right back to 30... throw some new plugs in, and go from there...It should help...
I would unplug the battery to...Let it start off again...may help some?? Keep plugging away at it ...
Your F/P is crazy....They must have tweaked it up with that other intake set-up?? I would drop it right back to 30... throw some new plugs in, and go from there...It should help...
I would unplug the battery to...Let it start off again...may help some?? Keep plugging away at it ...
Not working on my car for 2 yrs is taking its toll....Good catch....Your correct at 38...my bad...
You'd have to reset the KAM if you drop the pressure that much. The EEC has adapted for the higher pressure (via changing the injector pulsewidth). If you drop the pressure out, the EEC has no way of knowing (we obviously dont have FP monitoring like deadhead systems). You'd need to let the EEC relearn the injector PW it requires or just start with a 'clean slate' (clear the KAM).
Good luck.
Good luck.
okay this may be a dumb question but whats a "KAM" and how do i reset it? Is there a possibility that the C&L meter (which i've read has some problems and some that don't) is not working right and leaning out the car? I seen today that the fuel pressure dropped 3 pounds from where i set it yesterday.It' making me mad that it keeps detonating I mean the car runs aesome at start up and then sucks when it heats up 
Methodical
Active Member
okay this may be a dumb question but whats a "KAM" and how do i reset it? Is there a possibility that the C&L meter (which i've read has some problems and some that don't) is not working right and leaning out the car? I seen today that the fuel pressure dropped 3 pounds from where i set it yesterday.It' making me mad that it keeps detonating I mean the car runs aesome at start up and then sucks when it heats up
KAM is keep alive memory - basically keeps the computer settings (parameters) established for all driving conditions to refer back to. To reset it just unplug the battery for about 20 minutes or so. When you restart the car it my not idle right for awhile because it is establishing new running parameters. I usually let mine idle for at least 5 minutes without touching the gas. It may sound as if it's going to cut off but don't touch it just let it do it's thing. It will get it together.
Just a FYI. I've read where some folks had issues with the O2 sensors and LT headers (i.e. sensor not heating up properly) and giving the computer false readings. Also, read that removing the EGR could cause some part throttle ping. Just some food for thought. But a good tune seems to take car of all those issues though.
Personally, I'd go back to the Pro M MAF as they seem to be good items for out of the box installs and there is probably not that much gain between 73mm and 76mm
Just One Man's Opinion. Good Luck
The O.G.
Member
i was told 39 to 40 stock fp
the tuner said 39.5
you here about people changing meters and solving their problems..an easy mechanical fix if you ask me
the tuner said 39.5
you here about people changing meters and solving their problems..an easy mechanical fix if you ask me
BlackVert
15 Year Member
sounds like 2 issues to me ... the maf needing to be turned, and an oil leak probably dripping on the headers and smoking
if you have a cold air setup in the fenderwell, there is probably a 90* bend before the maf. when the air goes through the bend, you end up with alot more air at the outer edge of the bend then there is at the other places. so the element completely misses that air and the computer thinks there is less air coming in than there really is.
the C&L meters are especially susceptible to this because the sampling tube hugs the edge of the housing. if you look at a LMAF for example, the piece holding the element extends pretty far towards the center of the housing
does it ping, starting around 3000 rpm at heavy throttle? mine did
ever notice that a stock setup has a screen in front of the maf? that is to try to even out the air more so the maf gets a better reading.
try positioning the maf so that the sampling tube is, if you will, at 3:00 when looking at it from the front of the car. i had similar hesitation or bucking and this fixed it 100%. this may cause it to think there is more air than reality, so you may get some intermittent CELs while driving around. the CEL is most likely because the O2 sensors will be reading righ too much because the computer is giving too much fuel because it thinks there is more air than reality. then try putting it at 2:00 or 4:00 or something like that. keep clocking it until it drives well with no CEL lights
my guess is that the smoke is coming from a small leak in a valve cover gasket dripping onto the hot headers and smoking like crazy
if you have a cold air setup in the fenderwell, there is probably a 90* bend before the maf. when the air goes through the bend, you end up with alot more air at the outer edge of the bend then there is at the other places. so the element completely misses that air and the computer thinks there is less air coming in than there really is.
the C&L meters are especially susceptible to this because the sampling tube hugs the edge of the housing. if you look at a LMAF for example, the piece holding the element extends pretty far towards the center of the housing
does it ping, starting around 3000 rpm at heavy throttle? mine did
ever notice that a stock setup has a screen in front of the maf? that is to try to even out the air more so the maf gets a better reading.
try positioning the maf so that the sampling tube is, if you will, at 3:00 when looking at it from the front of the car. i had similar hesitation or bucking and this fixed it 100%. this may cause it to think there is more air than reality, so you may get some intermittent CELs while driving around. the CEL is most likely because the O2 sensors will be reading righ too much because the computer is giving too much fuel because it thinks there is more air than reality. then try putting it at 2:00 or 4:00 or something like that. keep clocking it until it drives well with no CEL lights
my guess is that the smoke is coming from a small leak in a valve cover gasket dripping onto the hot headers and smoking like crazy
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