quide to build a quick 4.6

Mr. Rustypwnz

Advanced Member
Jun 1, 2005
1,761
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indianapolis/ valdosta ga
This is from my personal experience from building a couple mod motors this year.

if you want to go fast N/A for cheap here ya go! And here is what i paid also.

mark 8 or cobra 96-01 shortblock $200
ported PI heads $200 (stock, i did the porting)
Stock cams $free
longtubes $300
4.10's or better $ already had em
plenum and tb, 70mm minimum $ already had

so for around $700-800 (less for you losers that already have the heads) you have a damn stout car, with lots more TQ.

same setup in my car as of now, car will pull 330-350rwhp bolt on ls1 cars, and they will not pull from me from a roll or on the top end of the track..

this setup is around 12.1-1 compression, and it will absolutely run on 92-93 oct. fine in 95+ deg weather.

this setup is good for high 12's with a crappy driver on street tires, mid 12's easily with good tires. this is with the stock tune. I believe that with just cams and a decent tune, and a little more RPM that this is capable of really solid 11's hooking and leaving..

i will be adding to this soon, as i get a better tune and cams and i WILL be getting a vic jr. intake and see how that helps out..

let me know if this was at all worth to read. lol
 
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I ran a similar combo and I ran 12.21 at 111 with stock heads and shorty headers. This combo won't impress you on a dyno but proves itself at the track.

I believe that, but I'm guessing you have some weight reduction, too. It isn't going to happen with stock cams, no matter how ported the heads are. Period. And that combo isn't going to run high 12s with street tires. Last time I went to the track, there was a full exhaust, full bolt-on, Hitech cammed, 4:10 geared, and slicked Bullitt with some weight reduction (all seats taken out, no A/C) and a great driver, and he was running 12.5's with decent weather (200 ft DA) and track prep. The combo listed by the OP isn't going to run those times without a lot of weight reduction.
 
You make it 'appear' so cheap and easy. But you have to include the cost of the gears, throttle body and plenum, because those aren't free. You also didn't include the cost of the head gaskets, intake gaskets, fluids... and aren't the headbolts on these cars TTY, meaning you have to replace them?

Also, I'm pretty sure the teksid shortblock has the same piston volume as the NPI, meaning the compression ratio should be the same as a PI swap engine. The extra compression of the teksid came from the smaller chamber on the 4v heads. But yes, it certainly helps to loose 75 lbs from the nose of the car.

Anyway, it certainly is a stout combination, but I personally trust my 175k mile NPI block more than any j-yard short block. Most people don't treat their stuff right, and from the teksid blocks I've torn down, it is pretty ugly.
 
Sneaky my car has no weight reduction other then front swaybar is off, and the aluminum block. I am on stock suspension, but I do run slicks, and cms cams. I might have the driver mod I'm not surre though???? I ran 12.50s with the stock cams on slicks and 12.7 on street tires. I think with longtubes and a retune I could have hit 11.99 but who knows.
 
You make it 'appear' so cheap and easy. But you have to include the cost of the gears, throttle body and plenum, because those aren't free. You also didn't include the cost of the head gaskets, intake gaskets, fluids... and aren't the headbolts on these cars TTY, meaning you have to replace them?

Also, I'm pretty sure the teksid shortblock has the same piston volume as the NPI, meaning the compression ratio should be the same as a PI swap engine. The extra compression of the teksid came from the smaller chamber on the 4v heads. But yes, it certainly helps to loose 75 lbs from the nose of the car.

Anyway, it certainly is a stout combination, but I personally trust my 175k mile NPI block more than any j-yard short block. Most people don't treat their stuff right, and from the teksid blocks I've torn down, it is pretty ugly.

no.. the npi piston is -11 cc dish, all 4v's less the 03 cob, are -2.6 cc dish, the pi is a -17cc dish..

and no again, as a pi head is around 42 cc or smaller and a 4v is from 52-54cc, and a npi is around 49-50 cc..

i have a stock plenum i literally hogged to death, and im running a 5.4 2v throttle body that is 70mm stock and it is smoothed out. the 4.10's i think i have $150 invested in, and the head gaskets and fluid were around 120 all together, so i might have a true 1 grand in this, maybe. and i reused the headbolts, so what? lol they torqued to spec fine.
 
I guess I forgot that ls1 fboyds were going mid 11's at 115+ 10-12 years ago with the stock heads/cam and bolt ons, gears and tires. An mn6 car with full bolts ons is going to trap 112-116mph.
 
Sneaky my car has no weight reduction other then front swaybar is off, and the aluminum block. I am on stock suspension, but I do run slicks, and cms cams. I might have the driver mod I'm not surre though???? I ran 12.50s with the stock cams on slicks and 12.7 on street tires. I think with longtubes and a retune I could have hit 11.99 but who knows.

And i have the same AND, no a/c, dogbone, cats, sound deadening, front bumper, trunk is stripped, no airbags, abs (from factory gone), radio rewire (no amp). and all the little brackets here and there i took off..

it went 105mph with no tune in the 1/4 a couple months ago, with nothing but 4.10's and a good set of pi heads. on a pi shortblock, so we shall see what 2.5 points of compression and longtubes and some more weight gone will do!!
 
Great info.

Seems to be a hot ticket... and remember the debate about porting PI heads. General consensus lately has been to port the intake, but to leave the exhaust side alone or port it very lightly.
 
sorry for the bump, but i have some questions. What do i use for the top half, do i use my existing 2v intake manifold ect? and also, is this fine for a daily driver, with 91 octane. because thats all i have around here
 
This is from my personal experience from building a couple mod motors this year.

if you want to go fast N/A for cheap here ya go! And here is what i paid also.

mark 8 or cobra 96-01 shortblock $200
ported PI heads $200 (stock, i did the porting)
Stock cams $free
longtubes $300
4.10's or better $ already had em
plenum and tb, 70mm minimum $ already had

so for around $700-800 (less for you losers that already have the heads) you have a damn stout car, with lots more TQ.

same setup in my car as of now, car will pull 330-350rwhp bolt on ls1 cars, and they will not pull from me from a roll or on the top end of the track..

this setup is around 12.1-1 compression, and it will absolutely run on 92-93 oct. fine in 95+ deg weather.

this setup is good for high 12's with a crappy driver on street tires, mid 12's easily with good tires. this is with the stock tune. I believe that with just cams and a decent tune, and a little more RPM that this is capable of really solid 11's hooking and leaving..

i will be adding to this soon, as i get a better tune and cams and i WILL be getting a vic jr. intake and see how that helps out..

let me know if this was at all worth to read. lol

or install a turbo and run mid to low 11s on street tires, stock block, heads, cams, intake, trans and gears.
 
dont forget as part of your build cost and info...

mark 8 engines use the same crank as the GT so its a direct replacement. 96-01 cobra's use forged cranks and has an 8 bolt flywheel so you will need a different flywheel/flexplate

Windsor 2v's (99-00) have an 8-bolt crank as well, like the Cobras, except not forged.