Wondering whats everyone doing as for rear end and suspension on a 65 coupe? Im helping my friend that been customising his car for a good 5 or 6 months or so. I was thinking maybe 8.8 rear end with maybe eaton or aubron differential 31 spline axles. Then doing Coil overs front and rear with blistein shocks/struts or maybe lakewood depends which direction he wants to go. Wondering how is everyone mounting the 8.8 to everything if anyone got any pics that will help too. He was also sounding like he was talking about a kmember but was mentioning a mustang 2 not sure what he was saying though.
rear end/suspension ?'s
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unless he either wants something different, is building a show car, or a race car, i wouldnt use coil overs. he wont see any real difference on the street, and he will spend a bunch of money converting over to them.
as far as the 8.8 rear goes, depending on what motor he is building, and how much power he is getting out of it, AND what he plans on doing with the car, it is not a bad choice despite the added cost of modifying the housing to work with leaf springs, and changing over to 5 bolt axles as well. however if he is building a 289/302/331, and is going to making less than about 350hp, adn the car will be seeing 90% street duty, then a properly settup 8" rear works just fine. for 350-400hp NOT using slicks, the 8" will also hold up well, above 400hp then the 8.8 rear comes into its own.
my mustang, when i get to it, will get stock upper and lower control arms, modified somewhat to handle the stress of a negative wedge kit, roller spring perches, 540lb rate front springs, lowered upper arm pivot point, and modifies strut rods with spherical rod ends, and the lower arms modified with reenforcing plates, and spherical bearings.
the rear gets either a modded 8.8 or a narrowed 9"(i am building a healthy 351w based engine for the stang), and 5 leaf rear springs. i am going the change the upper shock mount though, get it off the body and onto a new crossmember to take the load rather than the sheetmetal.
15x7 wheels with 205/60-15 tires will round out the package. oh and disc brakes on all four corners. 12"(actually 11.75) rotors in front, and 11.65 rotors in the rear. and dont froget to strengthen the chassis, subframe connectors at the least, but i am going to add stringers that run from the subframe connectors to the inner rocker panels, and a center cage to tie everything together as solidly as possible. export brace and monte carlo bar round out the engine compartment area for handling mods. for an anti roll bar in front i am planning on using a 1 1/8" bar with a 3/4" bar in the rear. yes i know the front bar will be rather stiff, but with the 351w's extra weight and being that i am using a lighter spring than the 620's most people use, i want the extra roll control.
as far as the 8.8 rear goes, depending on what motor he is building, and how much power he is getting out of it, AND what he plans on doing with the car, it is not a bad choice despite the added cost of modifying the housing to work with leaf springs, and changing over to 5 bolt axles as well. however if he is building a 289/302/331, and is going to making less than about 350hp, adn the car will be seeing 90% street duty, then a properly settup 8" rear works just fine. for 350-400hp NOT using slicks, the 8" will also hold up well, above 400hp then the 8.8 rear comes into its own.
my mustang, when i get to it, will get stock upper and lower control arms, modified somewhat to handle the stress of a negative wedge kit, roller spring perches, 540lb rate front springs, lowered upper arm pivot point, and modifies strut rods with spherical rod ends, and the lower arms modified with reenforcing plates, and spherical bearings.
the rear gets either a modded 8.8 or a narrowed 9"(i am building a healthy 351w based engine for the stang), and 5 leaf rear springs. i am going the change the upper shock mount though, get it off the body and onto a new crossmember to take the load rather than the sheetmetal.
15x7 wheels with 205/60-15 tires will round out the package. oh and disc brakes on all four corners. 12"(actually 11.75) rotors in front, and 11.65 rotors in the rear. and dont froget to strengthen the chassis, subframe connectors at the least, but i am going to add stringers that run from the subframe connectors to the inner rocker panels, and a center cage to tie everything together as solidly as possible. export brace and monte carlo bar round out the engine compartment area for handling mods. for an anti roll bar in front i am planning on using a 1 1/8" bar with a 3/4" bar in the rear. yes i know the front bar will be rather stiff, but with the 351w's extra weight and being that i am using a lighter spring than the 620's most people use, i want the extra roll control.
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