New guy here, creeped for a while. I have a 1987 Mustang GT 5.0 with T-Tops. The car has been sitting inside and out of my garage for the better part of 10 years. The car starts, runs and drives. There are some definite signs of age, but overall a pretty good car. This was my first car I ever bought 15+ years ago and somehow managed to keep it. The interior is all there, just needs to be redone cosmetically. The paint is shot, and the body has some normal dings and dents, with the worst of it being rust/rot on the bottom of the doors, and on the hatch. The glass is all there, and in good shape.The motor and transmission have 127K on them. What I want to do is modernize the car. New disc brake rear end, new suspension, rebuild the motor and trans. I could do most of the work, minus the body work, however with the kids, I just don't have the time. Sentimentally it is worth it to me, so I guess the real question is, what can I expect to pay a shop. I know the sky is the limit when it comes to these things, just want a general price. Thanks
Restoration Price
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- Mar 7, 2002
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With a vague description at best and zero pictures, there is no way to even ballpark something like this.
Even with good pictures and a detailed description, it'd be difficult to do so accurately.
Your best bet to find out how much something like this will run would be to take the car itself to several body shops, restoration shops, and performance shops with the whole list of what you're wanting to do. Let them bid the job(s). Have them show you other work they've done, ask around town at parts stores and car shows and such where other people have had work done, and use that to make your list of what shops you want to look at.
I mean, you say you want to "modernize" the car, but that's insanely vague and could mean anything from a Coyote swap, to an Ecoboost 3.5 or 2.3 swap (or even a GM LS motor), to a nice new crate pushrod 302, and then you get the whole slew of transmissions to choose from, including Lentech or PA AOD, 4R70W, or a GM 4L60 or 6L80 using an adapter plate for a Ford engine, or bolted straight up to an LS engine, or any of the dozen or so manual options that have become available since 1987.
Even with good pictures and a detailed description, it'd be difficult to do so accurately.
Your best bet to find out how much something like this will run would be to take the car itself to several body shops, restoration shops, and performance shops with the whole list of what you're wanting to do. Let them bid the job(s). Have them show you other work they've done, ask around town at parts stores and car shows and such where other people have had work done, and use that to make your list of what shops you want to look at.
I mean, you say you want to "modernize" the car, but that's insanely vague and could mean anything from a Coyote swap, to an Ecoboost 3.5 or 2.3 swap (or even a GM LS motor), to a nice new crate pushrod 302, and then you get the whole slew of transmissions to choose from, including Lentech or PA AOD, 4R70W, or a GM 4L60 or 6L80 using an adapter plate for a Ford engine, or bolted straight up to an LS engine, or any of the dozen or so manual options that have become available since 1987.
@Davedacarpainter could probably offer a good guesstimate on the paint and body work. I'd safely guess 10 grand for everything else wouldn't be to far off one way or the other .... lol
Don't pay a shop. Do it yourself. Nobody says you need to do it all in one day. Start with little things and just chip away at it. With kids, it's tough to find the time to do the work, but you'll have time to shop and research and order parts.
Eventually the kids get older and go off to school or hang with friends. Then you can sneak off to the garage and work on the car more and more.
Ultimately, up to you to do whT you want with the car. But I can understand the sentimentality of the car. Usually after the kids head off to bed, I sneak out to the garage for 10 mins to row through the gears in my first car I ever purchased.
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Eventually the kids get older and go off to school or hang with friends. Then you can sneak off to the garage and work on the car more and more.
Ultimately, up to you to do whT you want with the car. But I can understand the sentimentality of the car. Usually after the kids head off to bed, I sneak out to the garage for 10 mins to row through the gears in my first car I ever purchased.
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When your paying for labor and parts it quickly gets expensive, paint and body could easily be close to 6-8 grand depending on how far the rust reaches, maybe even more. Labor on mechanical can be anywhere from 75-100 dollars an hour plus parts. Maybe you can find somebody who does side work, it would be less expensive but sometimes leads to lengthy delays. I would suggest do what you can, the Internet has lots of information if you do your homework, and shop the rest.
Would you mind posting a few pictures for me? Particularly the doors, hatch, and snap a couple of the floor from underneath, specifically the rear foot well area. Also include pictures of the shock towers where they meet up to the front subframe, from underneath in the same area as well.
I'll advise you on what I might do in your situation.
I'm a painter and have worked in a body shop since the late seventies, just so you understand I can given you somewhat reasonable advice.
I'll advise you on what I might do in your situation.
I'm a painter and have worked in a body shop since the late seventies, just so you understand I can given you somewhat reasonable advice.
91TwighlightGT
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
With labor I'd say 15k is a minimum - meaning only the minimum is being done to call it a restoration, and as many parts that can be saved will be reused.
Actually, it isn't too difficult to fix them. Late Model Restoration (LMR) sells frame rails. It is tedious, but not difficult. You would have to remove your engine though. Good you don't have to worry about that!
Noobz was bored.Not sure how "New" it is- But Congrats on the Sn Certified tag Dave
- Mar 7, 2002
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That's how most things get done around here.
Woke up one morning, was a moderator. Been turning wrenches and/or running parts counters for 14 years, ASE certified, got certs from three OEMs, but am I SN-Certified? Nope, I'm a moderator.
But back to topic... Someone mentioned side work.
If your car is a technician's side work, you need to be even more picky than you do for an independent shop.
Technicians that are doing side work aren't making enough money in their shop for some reason or another. It can be a badly run shop (my situation), a bad paycheck (it happens when you work on flag-hours), or incompetence (I've seen a LOT of techs I wouldn't trust with an oil change loading up half their tools every night for side work over the years). It can be hard to find out the whole story without embarrasing or offending the guy, but make sure he's not "that guy" at his shop before you let him touch your car. I hate doing side work, I hate lugging tools home (good way to lose things) and I hate working out of my driveway, or worse, someone else's, and I don't know very many techs that feel differently about it. Now, if you find a tech that's "side work" is being done in a shop he's built at his house? That's different. That's my long-term goal is to be semi-retired in my 40s working out of a shop on my land out in the sticks restoring old pickups.
The great thing is you said it runs and is drivable, just sounds a little tired. If the under structure is sound, that's probably a good sign that the car isn't too far gone to repair, cost wise. If I were going to upgrade some of the things you talked about, I'd probably start with the brakes and suspension and work your way up to paint and body. I'd have them do one task at a time, and see how reliable they are. The last thing you'd want is to have your car blown apart and they don't do what you agreed to or they do crappy work. Say you have the reared swapped with gears and disc brakes and some suspension upgrades, when they complete it, you can drive it and enjoy the improvement right then. To me, this keeps you interested/excited in the process/progress, which is better than having to go visit your car while its in shop prison. I'm looking forward to the pictures.
Honestly, if what you said is all it needs. Find a clean hatch $1-300, new doors $1-400 ( swap glass).
Then a paint job $500-10k
Pull the interior, clean. Replace carpet , dye the rest back original color 4-600
Then a paint job $500-10k
Pull the interior, clean. Replace carpet , dye the rest back original color 4-600
I am no expert but....I honestly believe that ten grand is what you are gonna spend on a nice pro paint job...that is where my budget is anyway
Here are the pics. Sorry for the delay. Most important thing is that there is no frame rot or rust scaling/flaking. Only other thing I noticed is that the suspension is rock hard, like driving with no cushion. Oh yeah, the paint was washing away with the soap and water. This is the second paint job on it about 10 years ago. I have since moved the car back into my garage.
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Big fan of white GTs. Paint is costly, but if you can find a way to do the prep even a paint farm like macco will look right. About 10 years ago my friend and I prepped his 87 Iroc and farmed it out to macco. We were by no means professionals just determined. Ten years later that blue paint still looks great. The previous owner of my white GT literally sprayed right over the Oxford white in 2012 and it is peeling like crazy. Luckily he went with a bright white Toyota color and it's hard to notice except up close.
Every town has local car shows/meets this time of year, go to them. Ask the guys/gals who / where does work in your town, the good will float to the top real fast. Then take your ride to several and see who you like. Its gotta be a relationship unless youre paying Detroit Speed and the like 150K .....
My life is also super busy. I had a mustang shop in our area that is very active in a large club do my restomod mechanical, I was there pretty much daily for a year and half - they turned the wrenches and we reviewed options as the build evolved but nothing happened that my hands werent in and parts selection decided, I can tell you few shops would put up with the level of direct daily involvement I had, but they have become friends and as my build continues to evolve they are the ones I trust and who have the time, tools and skills to do the work. But dont be deceived I know every aspect of it and could do the work if I wasnt busy in other aspects of my life. I also selected the body shop who did their thing and coordinated with both shops and they did as well and now share allot of work...
This is what you're looking for in a restoration -
Ive had my 89 since new and it too is sentimental - Take your time selecting shops. It is the single most important decision you can make.
Your budget may be low but it depends on what you decide to do..
Oh, and even if you pay for the resto, Fox Mustangs are never "finished" there's always one more thing and then it'll be perfect
Allot of these guys on here are do it yourself or die diehards, but honestly they are all super helpful and able to help you figure things out as you decide on courses of action
-End of novel-
My life is also super busy. I had a mustang shop in our area that is very active in a large club do my restomod mechanical, I was there pretty much daily for a year and half - they turned the wrenches and we reviewed options as the build evolved but nothing happened that my hands werent in and parts selection decided, I can tell you few shops would put up with the level of direct daily involvement I had, but they have become friends and as my build continues to evolve they are the ones I trust and who have the time, tools and skills to do the work. But dont be deceived I know every aspect of it and could do the work if I wasnt busy in other aspects of my life. I also selected the body shop who did their thing and coordinated with both shops and they did as well and now share allot of work...
This is what you're looking for in a restoration -
Ive had my 89 since new and it too is sentimental - Take your time selecting shops. It is the single most important decision you can make.
Your budget may be low but it depends on what you decide to do..
Oh, and even if you pay for the resto, Fox Mustangs are never "finished" there's always one more thing and then it'll be perfect
Allot of these guys on here are do it yourself or die diehards, but honestly they are all super helpful and able to help you figure things out as you decide on courses of action
-End of novel-
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