Rich Condition w/ a 77m ProM MAF Sensor

joncash

just high enough to be functional
Founding Member
Dec 9, 2000
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The USA's peen
Allright put your reading glasses on:rolleyes:
I have been having an air/fuel mixture (read: super fat) problem ever since I swapped my engine and upgraded to 24# injectors at the same time.

Vehicle in question is a 90 Mustang 5.0, naturally aspirated, 24# injectors, 302 cid, very mild cam (218/220* @ .050 and a 112* lobe seperation), long tube headers, no cats, AFM Power pipe to locate shorty ProM 77 in fenderwell, Cobra intake, AFR 165's.
Here is my summation of the problem thus far:
--The meter originally had a calibration by the the old MAF manufaturer that caused it to run extremely rich with an eye-burning fuel smell. Gas Mileage was never better than 13mpg. Driveability steadily declined, eventually to the point of sputtering itself out almost completely. A stock meter and airbox were substituted and although still slightly rich due to the incorrect calibration, power and performance improved dramatically.
--The original element/plug assembly was fitted for the EEC-V square plug setup but tuned for 89-95 5.0. I had to cut and resplice the correct plug to my harness (another long story why the meter was like that, please take my word for it).
--I had the meter recalibrated by Professional Mass Air Systems in November and was pleased with the results for a few weeks, but there has been a notable decline in performance over the past month or so. I made sure to point out on the recal sheet that I was keeping the EEC-V plug, but the application and ECU were '90 GT.
--The vehicle has run progressively richer over time and the "seat of
the pants" loss of torque is quite apparent.
--With all sensors in place, it has reverted back to the occasional surging and hang-throttle at idle that seems to accompany MAF sensor calibration issues.
--With the O2 sensors disconnected, driveability improves enough to get from point A to point B-- but while not as prevalent, the surging and occasional hang-throttle sometimes returns-- even on my relatively short work commute. Power does not noticeably improve, and the acrid fuel-smell remains at all times.
--When the vehicle was at its best, gas mileage was never better than 16.5 mpg on the highway, it is now back down to the 11-12 range
These are my conclusions so far:
--When the recalibrated meter was first installed, there was a rich smell at idle but part throttle power was very torquey. My suspiscions are that the meter is still giving a "rich" signal to the computer and this has caused my
O2 sensors to progressively foul out, aggravating all symptoms.
--I am using longtube headers, and while the O2 sensors' distance from the exhaust valves does not help the situation, I think the rich exhaust caused by the MAF cailbration or possibly the ECU's fuel mapping is the real culprit in preventing the 02 sensors from maintaining temperature, as I have seen many street-going 5.0's do just fine with longtubes.
--I did try a MAF tuner and have never been able to have any positive effect with it, regardless of where I set it.
--The EGR valve, IAT sensor, O2 sensors, Coolant temp sensor have all been replaced with Motorcraft units. Another ECU out of a running GT had no change.
I am prepared to replace the meter, switch to short-tube headers, or get a custom ECU program if necessary, but I was hoping for some guidance before I spend any more money. I don't mind ditching the Power Pipe or longtubes, but only if there is some hope of curing the problem. If it matters, I can have it recalibrated again and replace the plug with the old stlyle EEC-IV one.

I am very sorry for the length of this post, but I am completely out of ideas...:bang: any input you guys can give me on this matter would be greatly apreciated.
 
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Wow... that's allot of info there.

your 02 sensors should not be adding to the problem if they are heated sensors and are in working condition. I can see the sensors' distance from the headers playing a part in what the computer see as stoich but there's a cieling to that it should not be a problem that the sensors compound over time. Put a multi-meter on your sensors to verify that they are working and see if they are consistently telling the computer that you are running lean. I believe that jrichker has those voltage values if someone else doesn't come along and chime in with them.

Your meter is (after reading through your post) is newly relaibrated and I'll assume that it's working correctly. What is still suspect though, is the wiring. Disconnect the meter plug while the motor is running and see if there is any change. There should be! After that, check voltage going to and from the meter to see that it is range. I'm not as certain that you are that the meter was properly calibrated for the computer that you're using. All I can do is hope that you are correct. Swapping in a known good meter could help you eliminate the possibility but it needs to be one that is properly calibrated for 24s in order for you to trouble shoot with it.

You problem stinks of one I've seen with folks running a meter calibrated for 24s with 24 lbs injectors but running a Cobra computer. What is the part number for the EEC that you're running and did you give the meter folks that part number?

Another thought that's crossed my mind is the possibilty that you've got two of the meter wires swapped. I only mention this as a possibilty but do understand that you probably made no changes to the harness when you had that other meter in. It kind of rules that out but I wanted to toss it out there just in case.
 
In previous snooping around I was able to verify by looking at the O2's that they were trying to heat up but getting fouled by the stinky exhaust. I only have the flow sheet from Prof. Mass Air to go by, but it does read 88-95 5.0 GT/LX.

On the wiring issue: I just double checked, and the idle does start a quick "rolling" behavior when I disconnect the plug w/ the engine running. I did also at one point a while back switch the two signal wires (the two that were not red or black) and the "check engine" light immediately came on.

Computer is an A9L GT/LX unit that originally came w/ the car.

One weird thing: on the flow sheet, they have written just before the voltage/flow values "83mm 88-95 MUSTANG GT 24LB N/A". Mine's a 77mm, woldn't the signal curve be different w/ a different bore diameter?
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
The problem is that I don't get a check engine light when the wires were as they are supposed to be. By swapping the two signal wire in the plug, I intentionally screwed something up to check if I had done something wrong. When I clear the codes and put the two signal wires as they are supposed to be, I don't get a light. I only get a check engine light if I disturb something, like disconnect the O2's or whatever. Should I clear the codes by disconnecting the battery, then drive it for a while before I check them, or check them as it is now? Are you saying I should check the codes with the engine running, then w/ the engine turned off?:shrug:

What I can't figure out is, why did it get progressively worse over a few months? It went from breaking the tires loose at a twenty mph roll to just slowly gaining speed like an old pickup truck. So it was basially the same pattern w/ both calibrations, just not as bad the second time.