Satchel rear coilover

[mcode]

I am thinking of purchasing this kit

http://www.hdrcoupe.com/pages/satchell-link-suspension.php

What is the opinion of this compared to RRS or TCP G-Bar

This is the new Max G-suspension feature in muscle car on this past weekend

 

[ron67fb]

We are unable to locate the page you are looking for. Please select from the list below to continue.

Yeah, I really want to give these guys $4000.

 

[bnickel]

Yeah, I really want to give these guys $4000.

link worked for me

 

[mcode]

opinions anyone

I would like to know if it is worth the cash outlay

 

[Gailahan]

The pictures don't work. You would think if they wanted to sell you something they would show you how it looked... We can't judge something we can't see.

 

[mcode]

i don't know why the pictures are not working

 

[mcode]

More pictures

 

[mcode]

More pictures

 

[Rusty67]

After looking at the pics I'd say to stay away from this kit. I'm not a fan of bolt in 4 links. I think if you are going to do all that work you might as well do it right and weld it in place. Plus I only saw 2 bolts holding the center section of the axle to the 4 link. I don't think thats enough.

What are you going to be using the car for ?

 

[bnickel]

the satchell link is basically a triangulated 4 link with some adjustability, but with the mounting positions of the upper and lower bars reversed. this makes more room for packaging, in a car with really limited space it's a very good option. it also has the benefit of having a lower roll center tha most other options.


is it worth $4 grand? well i gues that would up the buyer and what he wants out of the car. you can similar performance fomr other systems. the hedits rear 4 link is a good option as is the TCP G-Bar rear system. a modified stock style leaf spring setup can work rather respectable as well but the ride quality won't be the same.

probably the best of all worlds would be a 3 link with a watts link or panhard bar setup, the RRS 3 link is also a viable option now that they've redesigned the front torque arm mount too. Evolution motorsports should have their 3 link system ready to go in the next couple of months, they said they will have them for sale before Christmas this year. there is also the option of the TCP pushrod coilover system and it works well but costs more than the satchell link you posted. finally, Martz has a new 4 link with panhard bar available as well. there are ton's of rear suspensions options for our cars now where only a few years ago there was none and i believe we have TCP to thank for that as their pushrod coilover system was the first bolt in rear suspension option that i'm aware of.


i think the satchell link is a good system but it may be a bit over priced. my money is going to go to the TCP G-Bar triangulated 4 bar, personally, mainly because it's available for my 69 cougar, plus it's about half the cost of the satchell link.

http://totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html

 

[68EFIvert]

the satchell link is basically a triangulated 4 link with some adjustability, but with the mounting positions of the upper and lower bars reversed. this makes more room for packaging, in a car with really limited space it's a very good option. it also has the benefit of having a lower roll center tha most other options.


is it worth $4 grand? well i gues that would up the buyer and what he wants out of the car. you can similar performance fomr other systems. the hedits rear 4 link is a good option as is the TCP G-Bar rear system. a modified stock style leaf spring setup can work rather respectable as well but the ride quality won't be the same.

probably the best of all worlds would be a 3 link with a watts link or panhard bar setup, the RRS 3 link is also a viable option now that they've redesigned the front torque arm mount too. Evolution motorsports should have their 3 link system ready to go in the next couple of months, they said they will have them for sale before Christmas this year. there is also the option of the TCP pushrod coilover system and it works well but costs more than the satchell link you posted. finally, Martz has a new 4 link with panhard bar available as well. there are ton's of rear suspensions options for our cars now where only a few years ago there was none and i believe we have TCP to thank for that as their pushrod coilover system was the first bolt in rear suspension option that i'm aware of.


i think the satchell link is a good system but it may be a bit over priced. my money is going to go to the TCP G-Bar triangulated 4 bar, personally, mainly because it's available for my 69 cougar, plus it's about half the cost of the satchell link.

http://totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html

I agree 100%. The G Bar will be on my car within the next year.

 

[mcode]

Thanks everyone for the input

I would like to know if i had the choice between the RRS And the Satchel link --For ease of installation and keeping my exhaust (up to the rear Axle) what would you pick (as they are roughly the same price)
--I would like a bolt in

 

[CochinoFilipino]

Is the HDR kit for Mustangs available yet?. Those pics are from the 2nd gen Camaro kit. It seems that Mr. Satchell himself is actually involved with it's design. It will probably be a great option when it's ready.

Today, I'd go with a kit that's been in use for a while allowing the maker to find any weaknesses or just refine the system.

 

[CochinoFilipino]

After looking at the pics I'd say to stay away from this kit. I'm not a fan of bolt in 4 links. I think if you are going to do all that work you might as well do it right and weld it in place. Plus I only saw 2 bolts holding the center section of the axle to the 4 link. I don't think thats enough.,,,

They do recomend some welding.

The entire system has been designed to be a bolt-on installation with minor points to be drilled. HDR does recommend a few minor welds for the permanent or long term installations, and definitely for race applications. The idea is that the enthusiast can install the system at home, then drive the car to a local shop to finalize some minor welds and possibly some exhaust work.

That brace looks like it has 3 bolts and is only used to mount the coilovers. Will be interesting to see the Mustang version when it comes out.

 

[bnickel]

I would like to know if i had the choice between the RRS And the Satchel link --For ease of installation and keeping my exhaust (up to the rear Axle) what would you pick (as they are roughly the same price)
--I would like a bolt in

is there a particular reason it has to be one of these two? i honestly think the TCP G-Bar is probably about the best option for the money right now, and they have 3 different versions of it, plus other options as well and if you count the Air Ride versions you have 6 different versions plus several options.

there is the base G-Bar with poly bushings, the G-Link with spherical bearing type rod ends and the Billet G-Link with billet aluminum lower link bars and the same spherical bearing type rod ends. plus two different sway bar options if you want a sway bar, you can get it with their fabricated 9 inch housing or use your stock housing, you can also get it with single or double adjustable shocks.


http://totalcontrolproducts.com/gBar.html

my opinion is that it would be really hard to beat this system with anything else on the market right now except maybe the EVM Tri-Link system which isn't available just yet.

another thing i like about the TCP G-Bar system is that it looks like it would be possible to convert it to a 3 link/torque arm style system at some point if you so choose and you can probably do it with all TCP parts. i've been seriously thinking about doing away with the upper link bars and adding one of their torque arms and subframe connector kits with the X-brace to mount the torque arm then add either a Fays 2 watt's link or some type of panhard bar as well. that would give you a really nice torque arm setup with an extremely nice watt's link too.

i'll have to do some measuring once i get ready to start in on the 69 cougar project but it will be several months at least before i can even think about doing that, i have to get the Mustang sold and we're looking to buy a house and using some of the money from the sale of the stang towards a down payment. only then will i be able to get started on the cougar. it would be really nice if it all works out as i think it will.

 

[mcode]

Tcp G-Bar still needs welding

Why i do not like the Tcp- G-Bar

it is still a 4 link and it needs welding to the rear end.

Secondly if you install a fabricated fab 9" rear from Tcp the cost ends up being the same and more .

Why because the rear end is for large bearing late model torino ends.

As far as i know every mustang had small bearing rear end.

thus one must change axles and even rear 3rd member inner bearings???

Thus cost of unit 2000 add 1000 for rear add for the axles etc.

So what is better. ???

So the question is the Satchell a superior design if cost are eaqual or more for the tcp G-Bar.

 

[mcode]

oh i fergot i need to change addittional items

I also have to change the rear end SSBC brake kit that is made for small bearing rear ends.

 

[CochinoFilipino]

So what is better. ???

So the question is the Satchell a superior design if cost are eaqual or more for the tcp G-Bar.

No one will know until HDRs satchell for Mustangs is complete, and it is known what compromises were made to make it fit and meet customers 'no-cut', 'no-weld' demands.

 

[bnickel]

I also have to change the rear end SSBC brake kit that is made for small bearing rear ends.

you only have to weld 2 small brackets to the rearend housing if you use the stock rearend, you don't have to buy the fab 9 housing. i guess what you're trying to say is that you want a 100% complete bolt in kit that requires no welding at all?

 

[mcode]

welding options

Yes --i am a good welder but i still trust a professional on a load bearing bracket.

even if i weld it you would still have to remove the rear end and weld on the brackets . and then reinstall . A bolt on in my opinion negatates this step.

if i bring it to a professional you would have to remove the 3rd member to attach the jig from Tcp remove the axles remove the rear disc brakes disconnect the brake lines etc. In my opinion a big job not to mention the weight of the rear end . I am in good shape but i am not looking forward to this. (new gaskets etc.