SN95 brakes quick question
- Thread starter ryan218
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Heres the link I followed when I did my 5 lug..Very informative....
79-93 5 Lug Ford Fox Body Mustang Conversions
Kelly
79-93 5 Lug Ford Fox Body Mustang Conversions
Kelly
yeah thats what i used when i did it the first time. now ripping the front apart and starting over lol.
i got a fitting on the way now. thanks guy!
i got a fitting on the way now. thanks guy!
You need three spacers for each side. I used two on each side for both my old notchbacks. It could have used three though. Get the gold hardened washers from Lowes, not the regular silver ones.
There is nothing wrong with doing it this way. But, if your ball joints are loose and wiggle all around, buy new SN95 ball joints and replace them. You have a nice car so why not make everything newer?
For the passenger side female end of the brake hose is too small to go around the male end of the hard brake line on the car. You need a union that is 3/8" female end and a 1/4" male end to make it fit. It will only cost you a couple dollars.
There is nothing wrong with doing it this way. But, if your ball joints are loose and wiggle all around, buy new SN95 ball joints and replace them. You have a nice car so why not make everything newer?
For the passenger side female end of the brake hose is too small to go around the male end of the hard brake line on the car. You need a union that is 3/8" female end and a 1/4" male end to make it fit. It will only cost you a couple dollars.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
sorry dude but if you want your car to handle the corners at all your gonna need to upgade ALOT more than the brakes alone, hell the brakes arent gonna keep you from flying off of cliffs in the canyons, only slow you down before you go over the edge.
Corners??? uh-oh. You better get some polyurethane sway bar bushings and end links too. EVERY single fox I had seen has blown out rubber bushings since they are so old now. I replaced them in my black notch and in Hack Job. The black notch I had a before and after to compare and it did handle slightly stiffer. There was almost nothing left on the drivers side bushings...lol
BTW..V8 convertibles have huge factory sway bars. I wouldn't bother wasting my time on an aftermarket one. The V8 convertable bars are solid steel. They are like 1-1/6" or 1-1/8" thick. 50resto had the bushings in stock. I measured it with an open end of a Craftsman wrench. Worked perfectly.
Get some Strange 10ways too.
BTW..V8 convertibles have huge factory sway bars. I wouldn't bother wasting my time on an aftermarket one. The V8 convertable bars are solid steel. They are like 1-1/6" or 1-1/8" thick. 50resto had the bushings in stock. I measured it with an open end of a Craftsman wrench. Worked perfectly.
Get some Strange 10ways too.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
1990Coupe
Founding Member
So wait..
you're getting sn95 spindles too? if you keep the stock fox spindle you don't need new ball joints.
you're getting sn95 spindles too? if you keep the stock fox spindle you don't need new ball joints.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
sure but he wouldnt be able to run SN brake rotors, if he wanted to keep the fox rotors with the SN95 brakes
1990Coupe
Founding Member
I understand that. He has Lincoln rotors on the fox spindles now, i didnt realize he was ditching that 5 lug setup for the sn-95 setup.
its autocross. not road racing. speeds of 50-60mph on the stights. corners 35ish. i got other things planed to do worry. one thing at a time.
already got the new end links on. bushing for sure. any other recomendations?
either way i dont NEED new bal joints. ill do like others have donw with the 5/8's washers stacked .330 high.
1990Coupe
Founding Member
I'll be honest with you Ryan. Do not be afraid to change ball joints. I did in my project and it was not bad at all. If you wanted or considered swapping to the sn95 ball joints let me know and i'll hit you with a PM of how i did it etc.
I'll be honest with you Ryan. Do not be afraid to change ball joints. I did in my project and it was not bad at all. If you wanted or considered swapping to the sn95 ball joints let me know and i'll hit you with a PM of how i did it etc.
i did them on a feinds 95 v6 mustang last week. its just not needed and they dont fit the fox lower arms the best.
Recommendations for suspension?
Front:
Strange struts.
IMO caster/camber plates are not necessary on anything that is not coil over. I wouldn't wast my money. You can get all new upper strut mountings and bushings for 19.99 per side at Mustang Parts & Accessories - 50resto I've had some low Mustangs with big tires and wheels and I have NEVER had uneven wear...so I kept all the stock caster/camber plates. Just get a wheel alignment from a shop that knows what they are doing.
MM steering shaft for sure. The stock rubber rag joint on the stockers are always rotted out and sloppy.
It's prolly too late to swap in new LCA bushings up front. You already did springs, and you don't want to do ball joints, so I wouldn't waste my time taking that all apart then. Your car has low mileage right?
Rear:
UCA and LCA, Strang shocks, SN95 V8 or Cobra rear sway bar.
Front:
Strange struts.
IMO caster/camber plates are not necessary on anything that is not coil over. I wouldn't wast my money. You can get all new upper strut mountings and bushings for 19.99 per side at Mustang Parts & Accessories - 50resto I've had some low Mustangs with big tires and wheels and I have NEVER had uneven wear...so I kept all the stock caster/camber plates. Just get a wheel alignment from a shop that knows what they are doing.
MM steering shaft for sure. The stock rubber rag joint on the stockers are always rotted out and sloppy.
It's prolly too late to swap in new LCA bushings up front. You already did springs, and you don't want to do ball joints, so I wouldn't waste my time taking that all apart then. Your car has low mileage right?
Rear:
UCA and LCA, Strang shocks, SN95 V8 or Cobra rear sway bar.
I'm sorry but this is wrong. Also, I don't understand the thinking. Your gonna change ball joints anyways? Why not get the the upgraded "lower friction" ball joints for 96+ and not have to worry about the spacers(it's like a 5-minute process and they fit fine). It would be different if your not going to change ball joints. Also I would upgrade the worn out a-arm rubber bushings. Your also planning to race this car with this type of attitude. Good luck keeping the car together and the parts stores are gonna love you. Not trying to attack you, you might want to adjust the way you think about things. Most will find it is better to take a little more time, a little more exspense to do it right once and not do it wrong multiple times. jmho.
Beasty306GT
Active Member
Shaolin Crane
Banned
how about doin a tubular k member?
honestly that doesnt do much for handling just weight savings, my suggestions should be a mandatory panhard bar, if your doing 35ish through turns and you have the stock unpredictable rear end setup then your gonna lose the car, but its up to you if you like your car
1990Coupe
Founding Member
I disagree.. Installing the proper ball joints is better all around.. especially if you are auto x'ing it.. And they fit the fox lower arms perfect i just did it in september.
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