SN95 brakes quick question

Ryan I just helped my buddy do the sn95 ball joints on his fox last night. It took alot of effort.

After we got the old BJ out we put the new one in place and put the floor jack under it to push it in and beat the arm down untill the BJ was in position. Took about 15mins perside to install them.
 
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The ball joints take about 15 seconds per side to install with the ball joint press.

This is the kit we have at work. It's from Harbor Freight, but we did 99+ Mustang balljoints with ease and I just did my 97 F150 4X4 ball joints with this same tool last fall. Worked perfect.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Much cheaper than this one!!!!
BJP1, Set, Master, Ball Joint/Universal Joint Press, 22 pcs.


The Harbor Freight one does most cars, the Snap-On is a master set for any car which obviously you do not need.
 
Ryan I just helped my buddy do the sn95 ball joints on his fox last night. It took alot of effort.

After we got the old BJ out we put the new one in place and put the floor jack under it to push it in and beat the arm down untill the BJ was in position. Took about 15mins perside to install them.


:nonono:Please step away from the car and put the tools down. j/k Seriously though, you make anything take longer and make it harder when you do it the wrong way!
 
SVT - You can rent the ball joint install tool from your local advanced auto. Thats what i did :nice:

Oh yeah, for sure. That kit we have though is so cheap, $32.95 you can't go wrong. I figured we'd use it once, and we have used it quite a few times. It even works on U-joints too. It's good to have. Not worth buying the 600+ Snap-on one unless you do it daily to ALL types of vehicles.
 
1990coupe i did want to ask you do your tires rub real bad up front? cause im running 17x9's up front and those things rub like peewee herman in the movie theatre

They only rub at full lock, so I avoid going full lock. Other then that i have no rubbing issues at all. I don't have a bump steer kit either and i'm lowered on steeda springs :nice:

Can you change the ball joints with the arm still on the car while the cars supported by jack stands?

yep. thats how i did it :nice:
 
They only rub at full lock, so I avoid going full lock. Other then that i have no rubbing issues at all. I don't have a bump steer kit either and i'm lowered on steeda springs :nice:



yep. thats how i did it :nice:

well i kinda cant stay away from full lock, drifting and all, and im on lowered coil overs and i dont have my bumpsteer kit installed either, but i dont want to ruin the shiny new paint job either
 
They only rub at full lock, so I avoid going full lock. Other then that i have no rubbing issues at all. I don't have a bump steer kit either and i'm lowered on steeda springs :nice:



yep. thats how i did it :nice:

Cool,thanks man,my father in law is a machinest and actually made really nice spacers for me,but i dont want to take everything off and find the ball joint is shot,so a 94-95 ball joint or 96+ would be better?
 
Cool,thanks man,my father in law is a machinest and actually made really nice spacers for me,but i dont want to take everything off and find the ball joint is shot,so a 94-95 ball joint or 96+ would be better?

I'm sorry i don't remember what spindle you said you were using. I believe the 94-04 ball joints will work BUT i could be terribly wrong. I'd say if you are using the 94-95 stuff get a ball joint specific to that, like i did.

Support the lower a-arm with a jack, take the spindle off, beat out the ball joint with a mini sledge, then get that tool that presses in the new ball joint. Like i said, i rented it for free, just had to leave a deposit that i got back. It was really easy :nice:
 
If I'm not mistaken in 96 Ford upgraded the ball joints to the lower friction joints. If you are just getting replacements from AutoZone and such they are all the same part number 94-04. It really doesn't matter the year of the spindle. As I am sure most know the difference in the 94-95 spindles, the 96-98 and the 99-04, however those differences have nothing to do with the ball joint diameter that fits in the a-arm or the spindle. Another option would be the upgraded ball joints that steeda sells. I haven't done much research on them and or haven't heard many peoples opinions.
 
dude dont be lazy/cheap do it right the first time

how is it being lazy and or cheap? ive been told my many that they dont fit right. then my many who have said they fit perfect? so whats the head here?

its not going to see the track or better called parking lot till for bout 4 months i believe. i have plenty of time to get things in order. rear already has poly bushing all out back. need to get shocks next.
 
i was just talking about the washers in place of the ball joints regardless if you get the grade 8 washers there still gonna wear and flatten and thats just not safe, but if you want to go down to the junkyard you could just buy a whole set of a arms off a sn95 the should fit the same but with a little bit of forward offset