StangNet '11 5.0 Notch Project

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by MRaburn, Jan 27, 2010.


  1. MRaburn

    MRaburn Founder
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    Good luck with the 302 build, looks very interesting!

    I hope to do some more work on her in the early spring and take her over to JMS Chips for tuning.
     
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  2. MRaburn

    MRaburn Founder
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  3. d98gt

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    MRaburn I appreciate the updates.
     
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  4. MRaburn

    MRaburn Founder
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  5. DirtyD916

    DirtyD916 Active Member

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  6. MRaburn

    MRaburn Founder
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    I wanted to post our Swaybar setup for those that are still pondering fitment of such.

    Parts:
    Stock FOX Swaybar (diameter being stock is critical, ie; oversize is not going to work)
    SN95 Sway Bar Mounts - These are the ones that lower the swaybar and are 2pc contruction
    FOX Swaybar Bushings and Endlinks
    Maximum Motorsport Swaybar Lowering Kit

    Setup:
    Our engine setup has the Alternator in the Coyote stock position (driver side lower)
    Power Steering Pump in the Coyote Stock A/C location (I imagine if the A/C Compressor was here this would still work)

    Mount the MM Swaybar Lowering/Movement kit so that you are moving the swaybar rearward 1/2". It has bolt holes where you can configure/manipulate for this to work. This will also lower the swaybar by 1" and move it back 1/2" for clearance.

    Mount the swaybar SN95 Brackets and the stock FOX Swaybar to the MM Mounts.

    On the Endlinks, you are going to need to shorten the spacer tube because the swaybar is now lower by 3 1/2" - 4" (I can't exactly remember). We also had to obtain some 3/8" Grade 8 bolts 6" long, as the stock or aftermarket Fox endlink setup is too long. Make you get the correct thread pattern for the endlink nuts, I think it was x24

    I can't remember off the top of my head... BUT measure from the bottom of the FOX frame to the top of the bushing (the top facing flat side) in the brackets once they are mounted to the car. This is HOW MUCH you have lowered the swaybar, so you need to cut that much off of the spacer tube that goes over the bolt for the endlink setup. I think I took 1/2" less off the computed number, as I would start longer then go shorter if needed but it seemed to work well as is.

    Hope this helps anyone out there looking for a solution.
     
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  7. Vaz88GT

    Vaz88GT Active Member

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    Any info on the Paint? Is it a single stage or a satin?

    I see you listed the color code as Sterling Gray Mattalic.

    Could you possibly link the seller you bought it from?
     
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  8. MRaburn

    MRaburn Founder
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    We used PPG paint. So basically a normal base coat of Sterling. Then 2 coats of PPG Flex and Clear Satin... but you can only do 2 coats of clear, as it will then become to foggy... mix ratio of 4:1:1. Warning though, for a daily driver I would not suggest this paint. It will (anything like paper, clean too hard, etc) make shiny spots and then any scratches cannot be buffed out. Looks good though if taken care of. ;)

    Mike
     
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  9. Vaz88GT

    Vaz88GT Active Member

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    Hmm. Thanks for the info, oh and another thing, those door speakers, are they from kicker? And did you have to cut the hole bigger?
     
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  10. MRaburn

    MRaburn Founder
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    Those are kicker speakers, we made the panels and did not have to modify the speaker holes, those are 6" components.
     
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  11. Vaz88GT

    Vaz88GT Active Member

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    Thanks for the quick replies!
     
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