STARTING PROBLEMS

[rideapony]

Hi all, I just finished installing a brand new rebuilt 306, everrything is plugged and all the fluids loaded ready to run BUT IT WON'T START!!!!! so far I checked these:
Spark from coil (good)
Spark from wires (good)
Wires resistance (good)
Firing order (correct 13726548)
Cylinder #1 at TDC (rotor points to #1 wire and timing pointer at 0 degrees)

What else I'm missing!!!!!!!!?????

Could it be the way I did the lifters/valve pre-load? Extending on this, I followed a friend's advice:

1.- Divide the harmonic balancer's circunference in four segments starting from the 0 degrees mark.
2.- Cylinder #1 at TDC adjust intake/exhaust valves (zero lash plus 1/2 turn)
3.- Rotate the crank 90 degrees and adjust int/exh valves for cylinder #3. rotate another 90 degrees and adjust valves for the next firing cylinder. Repeat the same step for all the subsequent cylinders after turning 90 degrees. WHAT I'M I DOING WRONG!!!???

Please guys give all the help you can, it will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!

Here are the engine combination:

-Roller block 0.030" over-bored
-Flat top Speed pro forged flat top pistons with molly rings.
-TFS stage 1 cam
-TFS Twisted wedge heads
-Trick flow upper/lower intakes
-TFS pushrods
-TRW 1.6 ratio SST roller rocker arms
-BBK ceramic shorty headers
-65mm ford motorsports throttle body.

Please guys need help soon!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you all for the help,
Nick

 

[rideapony]

To all of you The engine finally started but I had to shut it down immediatelly because the headers started getting red hot!!!!!!

Does this means the valves are improperly adjusted??? I believe that is an indication of valves staying open because of too much pre-load. Can any of you verify this for me? please.

Thank you, Nick

 

[jrichker]

To all of you The engine finally started but I had to shut it down immediatelly because the headers started getting red hot!!!!!!

Does this means the valves are improperly adjusted??? I believe that is an indication of valves staying open because of too much pre-load. Can any of you verify this for me? please.

Thank you, Nick

That's not a problem with the valves, but a air/fuel mixture problem. Check the fuel pressure, dump the codes, and look for vacuum leaks.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[rideapony]

My car is a 1990 GT
I have the scanner with the three digits LCD read out and ran the codes, it shows three codes 11, 10, and 95.

I know that codes 11 and 10 mean system is OK,
Code 95 is FUEL PUMP SECONDARY CIRCUIT FAULT.

Could this code be the cause of lean conditions? and how can I fix it?

By the way Thank you for your ideas and hope some more very welcome come up because I don't know where to go from here

Nick

 

[rideapony]

Hi, here is another thing I just checked; the fuel pressure is at 40 psi.

The timing I'm sure is right on because when I installed the cam I made sure I aligned the 0 marks on bothe sprockets correctly, that is:

Cam sprocket's "0" mark at 6:00 o'clock
Piston #1 at TDC
and Crank keyway and sprocket's "0" mark at 12:00 o'clock.

So the only thing left as troubleshooting by elimination should be a massive vacuum leak and the only possible place will be the lower intake manifold. Please let me know if I'm on the right track based on my findings.

I also have to add that the plug I removed (#1) shows black staining and white ground tab. What this indicates. and again trouble code #95 will contribute to this problem, and How to fix it?

Is any vacuum measurable just by rotating the engine with the starter without running it? I check this but there was no vacuum on the vacuum gauge, just curious. Don't know what else to check and I'm hitting my head againts a wall HEEEELP!!!!!!!!!

Nick