Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

[a91what]

I know, it's so annoying.. I'll try it out and get a log. What do you mean by "flip the IAC"? Also, could the hunting be because of WUE?

Yes and yes... lol.
Flip the iac meaning take it off the tb and turn it over. They fit both ways.
Next time you start the car cold, turn on wue auto tune. The last box should be 100% or it will affect the entire fuel algorithm. So you want 100% fuel full warm.

 

[BranSVT]

Tried the tune and right away had crazy oscillation issues. I changed some settings in the tune including the VE Table to run a little bit richer in the idle range (when warm) because it was lean, and I set the "Incorporate AFR Target" setting to Off. When warm, it was idling almost perfectly. WUE definitely needs adjustment but I can't do it until I start cold. I uploaded my revised tune, and the log that corresponds to it. Let me know what you think.

 

[a91what]

Tried the tune and right away had crazy oscillation issues. I changed some settings in the tune including the VE Table to run a little bit richer in the idle range (when warm) because it was lean, and I set the "Incorporate AFR Target" setting to Off. When warm, it was idling almost perfectly. WUE definitely needs adjustment but I can't do it until I start cold. I uploaded my revised tune, and the log that corresponds to it. Let me know what you think.

I will review the tune later... the incorporate AFR is important later on... it makes the ve table "real".... so after the ve table is tuned, all you need to do is change the values in the AFR table to change the AFR you will never need to touch the ve table again... this is of course on a perfect tune. So you can get the car dialed in rich then just change the AFR table to whatever your desired AFR is. Makes the tuning process easier.

 

[a91what]

looking at the tune your idle valve is doing very little work. but your oscillations continue.
Try this.... unplug the iac and get the idle set. turn the advanced idle timing control off... this will help rule it out as a problem.

 

[DarrenKK]

All of my grounds are tied together via terminal blocks but I will recheck anyway to make certain I didn't separate any of them from another. My 12v source is from auxillary fuse blocks for both the ECU and wb. Link

Another thing we discussed earlier was my wideband is showing .3-.4 richer than what Tunderstudio shows. I've seen this question a lot on various forums etc. but have never seen a clear answer, is it a pita to adjust?

 

[a91what]

All of my grounds are tied together via terminal blocks but I will recheck anyway to make certain I didn't separate any of them from another. My 12v source is from auxillary fuse blocks for both the ECU and wb. Link

Another thing we discussed earlier was my wideband is showing .3-.4 richer than what Tunderstudio shows. I've seen this question a lot on various forums etc. but have never seen a clear answer, is it a pita to adjust?

No... its usually a grounding issue... almost impossible to fix.
you can use the custom WB option and move the voltage or AFR numbers for the upper/lower ranges to adjust for the offset.
I am still unsure what is causing the richening issue with your tune. its strange for sure and may be worth an email to diy.

 

[BranSVT]

looking at the tune your idle valve is doing very little work. but your oscillations continue.
Try this.... unplug the iac and get the idle set. turn the advanced idle timing control off... this will help rule it out as a problem.

Ill try that and get a log up.

 

[BranSVT]

looking at the tune your idle valve is doing very little work. but your oscillations continue.
Try this.... unplug the iac and get the idle set. turn the advanced idle timing control off... this will help rule it out as a problem.

Should I do that when warm or right away?

 

[a91what]

Should I do that when warm or right away?

Warm. We need to figure out the root cause of the surge.

 

[BranSVT]

So I tweaked my revised tune a little. I smoothed out the VE table a bit. When I first started it there was heavy oscillation (as always), then I let it get warm and it ran somewhat smoothly, still some oscillating. I then turned the car off and unplugged the IAC, turned the car back on, turned off idle timing advance and adjusted the Idle set screw to where it was around 950rpm. After a lilttle while I turned the car off plugged the IAC back in and then started it up. As you can see in the log, the first half is with the IAC unplugged (it idled pretty well), and the second half is with the IAC plugged back in (ran OK until the end where it started oscillating). What are your thoughts?

 

[bird_dog0347]

Hey Steve, just FYI I tagged you in my thread about a ground/WB/MS question.

 

[stangboy]

@a91what I have a quick question about the software for MS. I have a laptop that was barely used since it was new. It has Windows Vista Home on it. Of course that's obsolete now so I'm thinking about loading Chrome OS on it instead of Windows 8 or 10. Can the MS software run on Chrome OS?

 

[a91what]

@a91what I have a quick question about the software for MS. I have a laptop that was barely used since it was new. It has Windows Vista Home on it. Of course that's obsolete now so I'm thinking about loading Chrome OS on it instead of Windows 8 or 10. Can the MS software run on Chrome OS?

not sure but probably. check the diyautotune web page for compatibility.

 

[a91what]

So I tweaked my revised tune a little. I smoothed out the VE table a bit. When I first started it there was heavy oscillation (as always), then I let it get warm and it ran somewhat smoothly, still some oscillating. I then turned the car off and unplugged the IAC, turned the car back on, turned off idle timing advance and adjusted the Idle set screw to where it was around 950rpm. After a lilttle while I turned the car off plugged the IAC back in and then started it up. As you can see in the log, the first half is with the IAC unplugged (it idled pretty well), and the second half is with the IAC plugged back in (ran OK until the end where it started oscillating). What are your thoughts?

If you are still getting an hunting idle [which you are] with all the idle equipment off [which you do] then the issue can only be fuel and spark if its tune related.

remind me what parts you have? cam intake ect...

with the idle advance off and the iac unplugged the set screw idle needs to be set just below what you want the car to idle at warm with the iac plugged in.... [ just below the last number on the closed loop idle curve]..

to tune a smoother idle adjust timing first. try to remove a degree at a time and see if it helps. [you need to give the car time to respond to changes usually 30 seconds. it may want more timing or less. I set yours to what mine likes... you can advance the ignition timing up pretty high and see if it helps. then fuel.... add more or take some out. see what the car likes. try this then report back.

the iac is only a tool to help control the idle rpm it cannot fix a root problem. just something to keep in mind.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Steve, can you look through my idle setting and fuel? It's pig rich, doesn't want to idle, and difficult to start.

Thanks!

 

[a91what]

Here you go Collin. I changed around a lot of the tables and started you off with a solid ign table. All your tables are now scaled for boost.

I cut your req fuel by 30% and added 20% to the ve table.. this will add resolution to the table and lean it out some.

 

[BranSVT]

If you are still getting an hunting idle [which you are] with all the idle equipment off [which you do] then the issue can only be fuel and spark if its tune related.

remind me what parts you have? cam intake ect...

with the idle advance off and the iac unplugged the set screw idle needs to be set just below what you want the car to idle at warm with the iac plugged in.... [ just below the last number on the closed loop idle curve]..

to tune a smoother idle adjust timing first. try to remove a degree at a time and see if it helps. [you need to give the car time to respond to changes usually 30 seconds. it may want more timing or less. I set yours to what mine likes... you can advance the ignition timing up pretty high and see if it helps. then fuel.... add more or take some out. see what the car likes. try this then report back.

the iac is only a tool to help control the idle rpm it cannot fix a root problem. just something to keep in mind.

I have a BBK Cold Air intake, not sure about the cam, it's definitely not stock though, stock cobra #24 Injectors.. Shorty headers, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster 44 mufflers.. I started the car up on the attached tune, and as you can see in the latest log there were terrible oscillations until warmed up. I adjusted the timing to 19/20 in idle range and its much smoother than it was before. When the fan came on it put a little more load which then led to some short oscillation. But as the time went on the car started idling leaner 14.20 AFR to 14.50 AFR even though it was at 13.80 AFR earlier.... What do you think?

 

[a91what]

I have a BBK Cold Air intake, not sure about the cam, it's definitely not stock though, stock cobra #24 Injectors.. Shorty headers, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster 44 mufflers.. I started the car up on the attached tune, and as you can see in the latest log there were terrible oscillations until warmed up. I adjusted the timing to 19/20 in idle range and its much smoother than it was before. When the fan came on it put a little more load which then led to some short oscillation. But as the time went on the car started idling leaner 14.20 AFR to 14.50 AFR even though it was at 13.80 AFR earlier.... What do you think?

I will look at the tune file shortly. It's difficult to get an accurate wideband reading at idle especially if the cam has any amount of duration to it with a larger cam the wide Band is going to give false lean readings. For instance my car I run an e303 at first I'll get a reading around 14 as time progresses the idle will lean out 14.8 - 15.3 this has nothing to do with any changes with timing or fuel it just has to do with the Lambada sensor delay. Keep this in mind if you're tuning with a larger cam you're going to have to manually tune the idle range I suggest doing this with any kind of Cam auto-tune as good as it is cannot deal with the Lambada sensor delay. When you set auto tune up always set it to only tune above 1000 RPM never let your ego settings adjust air fuel ratio at idle as well. I hope this clears things up

 

[BranSVT]

I will look at the tune file shortly. It's difficult to get an accurate wideband reading at idle especially if the cam has any amount of duration to it with a larger cam the wide Band is going to give false lean readings. For instance my car I run an e303 at first I'll get a reading around 14 as time progresses the idle will lean out 14.8 - 15.3 this has nothing to do with any changes with timing or fuel it just has to do with the Lambada sensor delay. Keep this in mind if you're tuning with a larger cam you're going to have to manually tune the idle range I suggest doing this with any kind of Cam auto-tune as good as it is cannot deal with the Lambada sensor delay. When you set auto tune up always set it to only tune above 1000 RPM never let your ego settings adjust air fuel ratio at idle as well. I hope this clears things up

I see.. I'll get a video of the idle soon and post it up..

 

[TOOLOW91]

So what size crank trigger wheel are you EDIS guys using ? 6 3/4 ? And what are you doing for a bracket to mount a sensor ?

Looking to do this with my fast so I can take advantage of the sequential vs being stuck bank to bank .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate