joetrainer31
15 Year Member
Still Running Hot
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88stang88
5 Year Member
The point is if you have a blown head gasket or even just a small hole in the radiator letting air in you WILL NOT be able to get your infamous air pocket out.
I am not disagreeing that you need to remove it, I would just perform the steps to ensure you have a good set of gaskets and your radiator doesn't have a hole in it somewhere.
I am not disagreeing that you need to remove it, I would just perform the steps to ensure you have a good set of gaskets and your radiator doesn't have a hole in it somewhere.
joetrainer31
15 Year Member
I agree 100% with you. That's why, in the beginning of this thread, I suggested those exact things several times over.
I know I know...the cars parked untill I have time to get my crap together and get it done...tomorow is the day I figure this out I'm going to hunt down what I need atleast get the air pocket out. Then get all the test I need compression and what ever else I need. I started my "car funds account" and hopefully get moving on a lot of things I really want this rebuild and some gt40 heads and possibly a trickflow manifold they are all over ebay for a decent price. What supporting mods would I need for it to run good? I should probably start a new thread..
Also I just want to add that I went back and read this whole thread and it comes off like I don't know what I'm doing lol I do know what I'm doimg but to an extent. .. I've replace the entire cooling systems on two vehicles I've owned in the past. My jeep was rad, fans, all main hoses like upper lower and some smaller hoses and the water pump plus the basic stat. I also completly swaped out everything under the jeep and jacked it up 6 inches with big tires on heavy offroad rims...therefore since I used the rebuilt stock front differentials and axle assembly I blew out the wheel hubs left and right...those things are expensive lol. The camaro wound up being the fans and both sensors. Plus working on some of ignition on the camaro
Thisbis just my first engine that I want to diginto but its all new to me. And honestly the first engine or car I want to completly rebuild over time.. it needs a ton of work lol
joetrainer31
15 Year Member
It doesn't sound like you don't know what you are doing to me. It sounds to me like you are a guy who could use some help with a specific problem. That's why a lot of us are here. I have another thread where guys are helping me think through some questions.
Anyhow, your Mustang and your Jeep are two different animals, and the burping/bleeding process on these Mustangs are known to be pains. Feel free to let me know if you need help with the process.
Thanks joe the mustang def is a whole different animal. I can wait to fix it up I mean the few mechanical problems arent that bad(I hope) so this car has a ton of potential! I love the way it looks not sure if its because I own one but its easily my new favorite lol ontop of the looks it has the 5.0. Wich in my mind is better whether its betteror worse then the 4.6 I ddon't care I like it because it is a 5.0.
So does this "hole" come pre-drilled in? I just literally a couple weeks ago put a Stant - SuperStat Thermostat 180 Degree one in mine and dont recall any hole being their should I have drilled it out and positioned it so its at the top side of the water neck? I am pretty sure I have all the air out but I did notice in traffic the other day I was hitting around 210 degree's but once driving it came back down to a 190
joetrainer31
15 Year Member
k00ksta,
In the Motorcraft stats there is a predrilled hole just like the one in the picture I posted. I'm not sure about the Stant. Some after market stats have a tiny lip/half hole, but it is inadequate. As stated earlier, even if you get a Motorcraft stat, which comes with a predrilled hole, I would drill a 2nd hole of the same circumfrence right next to it in order to speed up the process.
And, yes, you need to have at least one hole in the stat and have it positioned at the 12 o'clock position. Remember, air bubbles float up. Thus, you want the opening/escape for the air to be positioned where the air is going to be. I hope this helps. Hit me back if you need anything else.
What size bit you think? I got some time to pull it and try it out hah I usually dont have any issues getting the air out but I am all for trying it to see if the temps stay lower in traffic.
joetrainer31
15 Year Member
I do not remember the size, but on page 4 of this post (near the bottom), there is a picture of my holding the Motorcraft stat. The pic shows the predrilled hole and you can guess the approx bit size using my hand, or the stat, or the writing on the stat. Just get the hole as close as possible in size. The position will be at the 12 o'clock position. If you drill a secondary hole just offset it a little from the original hole.
Also, make sure you observe where Ford has drilled their hole in relation to the overall structure of the stat. Does that make sense?
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
I've used the parked on an incline method while squeezing the top left radiator hose lots of times to encourage the movement of the air pocket.
A little trick I use, is I drain a little bit out of the radiator into a container so i can reuse the coolant (or if you already have low coolant)
It basically lowers the top level of the burp to the inside part (upper part of the radiator hole) instead of it spewing everywhere. As soon as it comes up and then starts going down it's being purged.
Turn the heat on full blast and have ALL your containers ready to fill it up as the fluid starts going down.
It's the easiest way, ...real easy
A little trick I use, is I drain a little bit out of the radiator into a container so i can reuse the coolant (or if you already have low coolant)
It basically lowers the top level of the burp to the inside part (upper part of the radiator hole) instead of it spewing everywhere. As soon as it comes up and then starts going down it's being purged.
Turn the heat on full blast and have ALL your containers ready to fill it up as the fluid starts going down.
It's the easiest way, ...real easy
Yeah I guess soo lol...well here is an update ...I parked the car because I got a low coolant light that came on but everything is full.....my bypass hose from the water pump was shot...got a replacement throwing it on tomorow ....the car is still running hot and I can not get the pocket out....evertime I try it shoots out the uncapped rad. So I am taking it to my buddys shop this week and he's hopefully gonna figure it out....there's no oil in the water or water in the oil so my hg os still good hopefully...he's going to run the pressure test and see what's up....but he wants to charhe me 50 $ and I saw I can buy my own tester for cheaper then that lol is that a rip off? I'm prob gonna let him do the test anyway because I assume he has a real pressure tester other then the chePo I can buy...I rwally hope he figures this out so I know if I have to rebuild or not...if uts the hg I'm not paying 2200 $ to just replace that wen I can get my entire engine revuilt for less then that...
joetrainer31
15 Year Member
Two things: 1) you can rent a pressure tester from pep boys or autozone for free if you bring it back in working conditions.
2) what was the outcome? It sounds like a stat issue to me if the fan comes on at the "R," yet it gushes out. Sounds like the stat is failing to open.
joetrainer31
15 Year Member
Maybe this will revive the thread. A mystery always does. Especially when its solution was so simple. Here goes...
I had recently rebuilt the top half of my engine and replaced the cooling system with quality parts, and properly refilled the coolant system as I described in this thread. The car ran like a champ evenin this hot SoCal sun for about a month. Then, it happened. The car began failing to maintain a proper operating temperature while driving with the air on. If I switched the air off the temp would return to normal: R or M.
I thought that maybe the condenser fins were filled with debris. I inspected it,but saw nothing. I went ahead and sprayed the condenser with water just incase. However, the problem persisted. I checked for leaks, but could detect none. Also, the water pump displayed no signs of failure, plus it must be working if the car ran fine w/o the air on. I even checked the coolant level once the car had been sitting for several hours. The rad and overflow were full. I was stumped.
At this point I called my friend who is master Ford engine builder for advise. He said, from 3000 miles away, its your hose clamps causing the problem. I thought he was nuts, but I've known him for 15 years and trust his unseen diagnosis.
Today, I went and checked all my hose clamps (most are brand new), and saw that every single one was loose! They were not loose enough to allow fluid loss, but apparently they were loose enough to allow air to enter the system. Once I tightened the hoses I allowed my car's cooling system to cycle as I described in this post and it worked flawlessly. Upon the first cycle, after the fan kicked on and just before the stat achieved full open, I saw 2 big air bubbles come up through the rad filler neck. After that the system held rock steady on "R" with the A/C off and slightly cooler than the middle of "R" with the A/C on.
The moral of the story, and I hope this is helpful to someone, check ALL your hose clamps. If they are loose your system will draw air in from the outside and you will be chasing overheating issues if you fail to check the clamps! I hope this saves yall some headaches, blown gaskets, and $$$.
I had recently rebuilt the top half of my engine and replaced the cooling system with quality parts, and properly refilled the coolant system as I described in this thread. The car ran like a champ evenin this hot SoCal sun for about a month. Then, it happened. The car began failing to maintain a proper operating temperature while driving with the air on. If I switched the air off the temp would return to normal: R or M.
I thought that maybe the condenser fins were filled with debris. I inspected it,but saw nothing. I went ahead and sprayed the condenser with water just incase. However, the problem persisted. I checked for leaks, but could detect none. Also, the water pump displayed no signs of failure, plus it must be working if the car ran fine w/o the air on. I even checked the coolant level once the car had been sitting for several hours. The rad and overflow were full. I was stumped.
At this point I called my friend who is master Ford engine builder for advise. He said, from 3000 miles away, its your hose clamps causing the problem. I thought he was nuts, but I've known him for 15 years and trust his unseen diagnosis.
Today, I went and checked all my hose clamps (most are brand new), and saw that every single one was loose! They were not loose enough to allow fluid loss, but apparently they were loose enough to allow air to enter the system. Once I tightened the hoses I allowed my car's cooling system to cycle as I described in this post and it worked flawlessly. Upon the first cycle, after the fan kicked on and just before the stat achieved full open, I saw 2 big air bubbles come up through the rad filler neck. After that the system held rock steady on "R" with the A/C off and slightly cooler than the middle of "R" with the A/C on.
The moral of the story, and I hope this is helpful to someone, check ALL your hose clamps. If they are loose your system will draw air in from the outside and you will be chasing overheating issues if you fail to check the clamps! I hope this saves yall some headaches, blown gaskets, and $$$.
Well first off I would like to thank everyone who chimed in on my thread... it was a big help. The outcome was human error aka me being an idiot. First thing I did was replace all hoses. Except one. That damn little bypass hose. It looked and felt fine. Wrong at the bend there was a crack in the hose that went unnoticed by my hawk like eyes...lol and also turns out like joe mentu oned above all my hose clamps were crap. Still the original clamps from the factory I bought replacements but thought the old ones were fine. I changed the bypass hose put my 4th stat in there. All the previos 3 were duds. I checked them in boiling water and nothing. Went to a difgeremt store also like joe mentioned...lol got a good working stat put it in filled the rad this time it took atleats triple the amount of fluid my previous attempts did. Burped the system and it ran fine for a week or so then the problem came back not nearly as bad but still there. I made it to work and noticed the system was so pressureized the hose was gonna blow again. So I popped the red lever on my cap released the pressure. This apperantly pushed any air out of my system and the cars fine now. Its now 3 weeks later and my temp stays at the r and sometimes whwn I stop it will bump up to the m but will not get any hotter then that no matter how long I drive it. So I'm thinking the pronlem is now fixed.
So basicly the morale of the story is allways listen to joe lol. Thanks joe . I do however think therw is a tiny little air pocket in my system as my gauge will very briefly bump to the a but imediatly the stat opens and it goes back down to the r. That happenda like once in three weeks. Should I just leave it be or try and get that little tiny air pocket out? I kindof don't want to touch it because this is the firat time since I bought the car 3 months agao I can actually drive it anywherw I want to go. That makes me happy. Now I feel like I can move onto another of the many problems my heap of 
mustang has. I still love the car nonetheless
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