Still Running Hot

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ry94stang50, Aug 6, 2013.


  1. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    I would love a 351w but I thought it would be much more money. And yeah a 331 would be better. You get pretty much the same pow er from What I'm hearing. Where could I find a 351w is thag an old old engine or was it produced around the same time as our 302s? I'm not sure if I want to go the stroked riute either I heard they are not god for a dd
  2. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Its 1299 for the short block economy 351w from late model and 2999 for a long block 351w from summit. The long block is 300hp. Thays not a bad price. What would I need to finosh a long block I know it has heads but no intake manifold right. I think a 351w with the trickflow setup would be pretty powerful. Not sure if they make the kit fpr a351 tho?
  3. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    The 351 will end up about the same. Just make sure to get a 94 and newer rebuilt short block because they will be roller blocks. All the things you will need like distributor, headers, lower intake, drop mounts, 28oz flywheel and balancer can be obtained on ebay for very reasonable prices. You will also need to lengthen your fuel rail crossover lines, but that's cheap and easy. You can also get a 95 cobra ECM & injectors on ebay cheap as well, or buy the ECM from autozone (as much as I don't like autozone). All in all the cost will end up about the same if you are looking at a quality stroker.

    If you go stroker get a 331 for longevity. However, you could skip all of that and buy a killer set of aluminum heads for your ride, strap them on, and enjoy with much less headaches. Decisions decisions.
  4. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    What? Too expensive. I can get a late model 351 roller for $775 with 90 day warranty! Mabbco.com
  5. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Update...ok so I bled the cooling system this morning and I think everyrhing went smoothly. I actually pushed a funnel in the rad and it made an air tight seal I think lol so it raised the high point and everything went as it should. For the first timenin all my attempts the fan kicked on and stat opened when it should have. The system took another hallon and a half also no volcano this time. I waited untill the fluid level stayed about an inch from the top for a while. And no bubbles heat worked. I think and I hope I'm all good now. Also tightened all the clamps agian. So I hope I can move onto duming money elsewhere on the vehicle. I need a heat shield for my air filter now where can I find one. My cai goes into the fender but nothing covers the hole back up. Should I just fab something up and screw it to the fender/engine bay? Also I asked this before and its a dumb question. But am I saposed to hear my cai sucking in air when I am on the gas? I can hear it like its sucking air through the passanger side vents inside the car. Normal or not? Sorry guys I'm an idiot lol
  6. Ross12

    Ross12 Member

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    Just sounds like the CAI is working is all............
  7. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    Im glad you got the cooling system straightened out. It sounds like it needed a lot more fluid.

    Yes, the cai makes noise. When you get that hole blocked off it will be a bit quieter.
  8. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    I hope it gets quiter its awfully annoying lol
  9. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    And yeah it def needed more coolant. It would never let me fill it all the way before it would start the volcano. This time it did. Ill findout in the morning on the way to work if everything is good now. I had a 15 min drive
    To my second job today everhthing looked ok. But usually it wouldn't get hot untill about 25 mins of driving.
  10. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    The volcano was from trapped air and not enough incline on the nose.
  11. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Ahhh I wish I woulda known the not enoughincline part lol....everytime that happened I would turn it off and call it a day. Anyway made it to work. And the car ran hot for 1 sec and back down. Did the same when I stoped at a light. Nothing at all like before. When I say a sec it was literaly a seccond. So I guess it Is either still a tiny bit of traped air or my hg has a tiny hole. IDk. Its aggrivating. But its drivable I actually took the 30 min drive to work and immidiatly had tonrun home because my girl locked herself out. So I drove for a total of 1.5 hours and it was fine only got up to between m and a on gauge very briefly. Like a bump. At this point I've attempted burping the vehicle so much my system is atleast 85% water so I have to drain it and throw antifreeze in there before the temps get below freezing. I'm terrifies to do this becaus my luck when I do it ill have another air gremlin
  12. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    No, no. This is actually a good thing because you do not have a good ratio of water/antifreeze in your system. I'm surprised that its working as well as it is. Also, when you empty out your system, it will give you a chance to replace what sounds like a less than optimal thermostat. Do you have a motorcraft stat in it?
  13. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    No I do not. I haven't been able to find one. I even checked amazon. I could of very well overlooked it though. Did you say you have a part number? Thanks joe
  14. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    test any thermostat prior to install by throwing it in a pot of boiling water and see what temperature it opens at. You would be surprised at how many new ones fail to operate properly out of the box.
    joetrainer31 likes this.
  15. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    Like mikestang63 said, test the new stat. However, I have seen that Motorcraft stats are simply higher quality than the rest.

    The part number is RT1139. And, DON'T USE TAP WATER to refill your system. That is, not unless you like corrosion. Just buy 50/50, fill, drive off into the sunset.
  16. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    I tested the last 3 stats from advance auto and none of them worked. NONE! Never even opened and 2 of them were the 11 $ super stants. I went to autozone and got what they carried and it opened at 199º slightly higher openeng temp then it was rated at but it worked atleast that's what I have in my car now. And thanks jie I'm going to order the motorcraft stat today or tomorow.
  17. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    How many jugs of 50/50 should I get 2 or 3? Iknow it takes more then 1 lol
  18. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    Don't buy the pre mixed 50/50. You are paying 2x the amount. Buy a gallon of whatever regular coolant is on sale and two gallons of distilled water. I also throw in a bottle of H2O pump lubricant as insurance. Don't worry if you need to add a little more water than coolant.

    Fill the system with 1/2 a gallon of coolant first, then pour 1/2 gallon of water in. Then take the other 1/2 of the water and pour it in the coolant jug and you have ready made 50/50 mix. Keep filling the system with this mix and then burp the system. I highly recommend getting the Lisle funnel to burp your car- makes is super easy.
  19. joetrainer31

    joetrainer31 Member

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    Mikestang63 has a good point about prices. Check prices on coolant. Where I live the (socialist state of CA) prices are different. I second his idea that if you mix your own, get distilled water. Do not let tap water into your system.

    For what it's worth, I bought 2 balanced stats & 1 rad cap from Autozone that were duds out of the box. Get those kind of items from Motorcraft.
  20. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Thanks guys. Yeah coolant is expensive in my parts if I'm lucky I can get something on sale for 14 $. Lol. The brand doesn't really matter right? And are you talking about that water wetter or wetter water whatever its called. The stuff that saposedly makes you car run about 10º cooler?

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