strut tower braces?

I was looking for the best deal on a strut tower brace, hopefully with free shipping. the maximum motorsports chrome brace looks really nice, but I love steeda's parts and dont mind getting the cheaper product, because I really trust steeda's design. anyways the question I am getting at is how difficult of an install are we looking at here? I cant imagine it being too hard, but I want to know what I am getting into. so to review.. best price? free shipping? and install complications? thanks guys, I dont know what I would do without this site.:SNSign:
 
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mity2 said:
i have FRPP one. they look nice and all. But nakes it hard to do few thing on engine, because they gets in the way
yeah, but it's really easy to take off when you need to. When i did my TB+Plenum i took it off np, only thing is it wouldn't fit on there after i was done cuz the intake is stacked, make sure if you have TB+Plenum you buy one thats tall enough to then go over the intake tube if yours is aftermarket. I have a roush strut tower brace.
 
squares98 said:
Quality aftermarket STB's are a PITA to install and re-install. The factory brace is easy, I believe the bolts have their own threads,

Yea only 94-97 gt and cobras have holes drilled. Must be pain in the ass to drill holes and mount that bracket under wheel well. :p
 
i bought a steeda mild steel. they are discontinued, but you can still find them at various places. i got mine for $110. great mod, really helps the front end. install is a PITA though, especially if your car is lowered. you have to drill 8 holes if i remember correctly. then reach your hand through the wheel well to thread the nut onto the bolts. the cowl has to come off and be cut as well. i havent had to remove mine yet, but i know i will once i start doing some engine work. im not looking formward to it.
 
Roger_4.6_96 said:
Yea only 94-97 gt and cobras have holes drilled. Must be pain in the ass to drill holes and mount that bracket under wheel well. :p

I found it quite an easy install.:shrug: Once you mark the holes where the brace was going, drill and bolt it down with the supplied hardware. I could have chosen to tap the holes, but felt it was easy enough with the bolts. I had the front jacked up under the k-member allowing the wheels to drop and could reach behind fairly easy. I also took my time on the rear firewall and cut the plastic so it fit nice around the STB for a cleaner look.

BTW, I installed a Steeda chrome moly version for it's lightweight but still strong, powder coated black and clearance for CAIs.

Here's a pic.
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Here is mine from STEEDA. Although I put that "steeda" lettering on the center of the brace. I have access to a vinyl sign shop :)

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View attachment 432546

It was a little pain in the A$$ to get the strut tower brace installed around those C/C plats
 

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Hey steeda GT, that looks good with the vinyl on there and Mity2, yeah I forgot about those bolts, the one on the driver's side was a PITA to get to even with the cowl cover out of the way. Mind must have been blocking those out.

Point is, if we can do it, almost anyone should be able to install it. Yeah, it's kind of a pain to initially install and remove/reinstall, but it should need to come off that often - if it does it means either bad planning or bad luck. Steeda directions are good to follow.
 
san~man said:
twothousandgt,

A STB on a coupe does little. The front is stiff enough for now, so I'd recommend you invest in a good set of LCA's instead.
i beg to differ. it doesnt do little, i think what you should have said is there is a bigger need elsewhere, like the rear. when i did my STB, there was a very noticeable difference. its just the rear needs a lot more work than the front, although, by comparison, the front is nowhere near the stiffness of some family coupes on the road.