whats up people i just scored a turbo coupe rear for 30 bucks disc to disc and advice as to what is involved or is it easier to just put the disc brake parts on my rear and help greatly apprieciated
thanks in advance
jim
thanks in advance
jim
t-bird turbo coupe rear end swap
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Legendary
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Check these links out:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/pit/2740/reartech.html
http://svo73mm.cjb.net/
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/pit/2740/reartech.html
http://svo73mm.cjb.net/
yeah forgot to mention i just had my gears and t loc rebuilt that why i wanna just swap the brake parts what do you guys think ?
Legendary
Founding Member
Well I had a tc rear end and I took the brake stuff off of it and did the swap a couple of weeks ago. I would do that rather than having to swap your gear and unit to the tc rear end. You will need to buy brackets for the capilers if you go this route. I got mines for 150 shipped from northracecars.com . And with these brackets you still use your stock alxes so you don't have to worry about the longer tc alxes. Check the link in my sig for my install.
Been there and done that! With success! 
It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.
Auto trans Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving.
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made. You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.
You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.
You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake. The ebrake handle on 87 and later models must be modified by removing the spring, and tack welding the pawl and ratchet assembly.
Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.
Auto trans Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving.
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made. You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.
You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.
You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.
Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 8 to get the braking performance up to par.
See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake. The ebrake handle on 87 and later models must be modified by removing the spring, and tack welding the pawl and ratchet assembly.
Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.
fyi, for the trouble that you're gonna go through, your braking improvement will be minimal. It's more bling factor than anything else having discs out back, because the rear is only 30% of your stopping power. the t/c rear has anti groan brackets welded on to the axle tubes, which you're gonna have to find a way to weld them or attach them ontoyour current 8.8 rear.
Legendary
Founding Member
v8only said:
So what makes this swap worthwhile?
Just a larger rim selection and 'bling' factor? Suspension options? I'm looking at a complete set of Lincoln equipment needed to do this for a good price and am now having second thoughts. The braking improvement was the main motivation but if it is not that much of an improvement I'll just hold off and spend the $$ in other areas.Similar threads
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