PDXStangDude
Member
FordMuscle said:
Wow!!
That is a good write up... they all are really. Makes me feel like I could actually work on my car without F'ing it up!!
Technical Write up thread. (How To)
- Thread starter gp001
- Start date
Wow!!
That is a good write up... they all are really. Makes me feel like I could actually work on my car without F'ing it up!!
-
Sponsors (?)
Burning MP3 CDs for the Shaker
This has probably been posted in numerous posts over the past year but I took the time to collect all of the information from all of the previous posts, burn my own CDs and then document the procedure in a single document. This worked for me, I hope you find it useful.
http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/ShakerMP3.htm
This has probably been posted in numerous posts over the past year but I took the time to collect all of the information from all of the previous posts, burn my own CDs and then document the procedure in a single document. This worked for me, I hope you find it useful.
http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/ShakerMP3.htm
anthony05gt
Active Member
My Color Retrofit Instructions
A lot of us bought the deluxe model mustangs that come with the 4 gauge package. If you want to upgrade to the 6 gauge cluster with the my color feature here's the information...
First, pop the blank out of the dash over your radio to the left of the traction control switches and power outlet. Behind that blank should be a section of wiring harness that plugs into the blank even though there are no switches on the blank. If you don't have the harness and plug there forget it. You can't do the upgrade. I've heard that cars without traction control do not have the plug. I also heard that the newer your is the less chance you have of the plug being there because Ford stopped producing cars with the extra wiring at some point. If you have the plug in there you're in good shape.
You'll need to go to the Ford parts department and order the new cluster and the switch assy. You must have your vin# and current mileage so they can call the cluster center and order your new cluster. The cluster center will install your mileage into the new cluster before shipping it. The mileage will be a little off if you drive the car for the few days it takes to get the cluster shipped. You will then have to go to the dealer where they have to retrieve the information from your old cluster before it's removed using Ford's WDS computer. The new cluster takes just a few minutes to install, then the Ford tech will load the info into the new cluster. Don't attempt to install the new cluster before the tech retrieves the info out of it.
The my color 6 gauge clusters are specific to GT or V-6 cars. They are not interchangeable. The switch assy part # is 4R3Z*10D889*AAA It lists for about $47.62. The actual cluster will have a different part# depending on which car you own. The cluster will cost anywhere from $250-$350 depending on yor dealer's pricing. Save the old cluster because the cluster center will need it as a core return.
I did my changeover today and all went well.
__________________
A lot of us bought the deluxe model mustangs that come with the 4 gauge package. If you want to upgrade to the 6 gauge cluster with the my color feature here's the information...
First, pop the blank out of the dash over your radio to the left of the traction control switches and power outlet. Behind that blank should be a section of wiring harness that plugs into the blank even though there are no switches on the blank. If you don't have the harness and plug there forget it. You can't do the upgrade. I've heard that cars without traction control do not have the plug. I also heard that the newer your is the less chance you have of the plug being there because Ford stopped producing cars with the extra wiring at some point. If you have the plug in there you're in good shape.
You'll need to go to the Ford parts department and order the new cluster and the switch assy. You must have your vin# and current mileage so they can call the cluster center and order your new cluster. The cluster center will install your mileage into the new cluster before shipping it. The mileage will be a little off if you drive the car for the few days it takes to get the cluster shipped. You will then have to go to the dealer where they have to retrieve the information from your old cluster before it's removed using Ford's WDS computer. The new cluster takes just a few minutes to install, then the Ford tech will load the info into the new cluster. Don't attempt to install the new cluster before the tech retrieves the info out of it.
The my color 6 gauge clusters are specific to GT or V-6 cars. They are not interchangeable. The switch assy part # is 4R3Z*10D889*AAA It lists for about $47.62. The actual cluster will have a different part# depending on which car you own. The cluster will cost anywhere from $250-$350 depending on yor dealer's pricing. Save the old cluster because the cluster center will need it as a core return.
I did my changeover today and all went well.
__________________
LV51FER
New Member
Raptor Light Install
Here's the link to my guide to installing and hard wiring the raptor light:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2177534/8
Here's the link to my guide to installing and hard wiring the raptor light:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2177534/8
toolttime
New Member
4 Roush Installs
Here are 4 roush installs I have done on my 05 roush
Roush charger S/c
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25020
Roush Suspension
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28554
Roush Front brakes
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30556
Roush trailing arms and BMR Adj.Panhard bar
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30587
Here are 4 roush installs I have done on my 05 roush
Roush charger S/c
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25020
Roush Suspension
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28554
Roush Front brakes
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30556
Roush trailing arms and BMR Adj.Panhard bar
http://www.fnsweet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30587
hurst short throw shifter installation: http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-HURST-Short-Throw-Shifter-Install-061016.html
strange development strut tower brace: http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Strut-Tower-Brace-Install-060920.html
strange development strut tower brace: http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Strut-Tower-Brace-Install-060920.html
Vogtland lowering springs http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Lowering-Spring-Install-061222.html
Roush underdrive pulley install http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Underdrive-Pulley-Install-070211.html
lower control arm install http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Lower-Control-Arm-Install-070323.html
DeMolet CAI install http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Ford-Mustang-Cold-Air-Intake-Install-070503.html
more to follow soon! :SNSign:
more to follow soon! :SNSign:
Adjustable Upper Camber Plate Strut Mounts Install http://www.stangnet.com/Tech-Articles/S197-Camber-Plate-Install-070511.html
partsbill
Member
trunk release button mod
easy mod to do yourself. I used OEM part# 3W7Z 9B242 AA retail $15.58 or you can use a momentary push button switch (McMaster Carr P/N 6915K22 or Radio Shack Cat # 275-646), and solder two leads to it.
Next, Squeeze the sides of the glove box and it flips down. This will give you access to mount the switch. Drill a hole in the glove compartment box. Note there is a metal bar behind the right side of the glove compartment box. There is one spot that has a hole in it. Drill the hole in the plastic to match up with this hole. My button was 1/2" so I used a uni-bit that went up to 1/2"
Remove the retainer nut from the switch and insert the switch and the leads into the hole. Thread the leads through the nut and onto the switch and tighten the nut up. Next, attach one of the leads to ground. I loosened one of the ground bolts all ready in the glove box and attached the lead to it and retightened.
Next pull off the kick panel on the passenger side, just lift up on the cover and pull off the cover. Find the large wire harness and unwrap enough of the tape to reveal the wires. Find the skinny White wire with a pink stripe. This is the one we will be using. Carefully strip a small piece of insulation off this wire without cutting it. Strip a piece of insulation off the remaining lead from the switch and tightly wrap it around the exposed copper on the White/pink wire. Test your switch, You can solder this connection if you’d like or just tape it up really good.
When finished, rewrap the wire bundle with electrical tape and place it back as it was. Replace the cover and the glove compartment box.
Note that if the switch you chose is too big, the trunk might open sometimes if you slam the glove compartment box or if your knee hits the corner of the glove compartment door
easy mod to do yourself. I used OEM part# 3W7Z 9B242 AA retail $15.58 or you can use a momentary push button switch (McMaster Carr P/N 6915K22 or Radio Shack Cat # 275-646), and solder two leads to it.
Next, Squeeze the sides of the glove box and it flips down. This will give you access to mount the switch. Drill a hole in the glove compartment box. Note there is a metal bar behind the right side of the glove compartment box. There is one spot that has a hole in it. Drill the hole in the plastic to match up with this hole. My button was 1/2" so I used a uni-bit that went up to 1/2"
Remove the retainer nut from the switch and insert the switch and the leads into the hole. Thread the leads through the nut and onto the switch and tighten the nut up. Next, attach one of the leads to ground. I loosened one of the ground bolts all ready in the glove box and attached the lead to it and retightened.
Next pull off the kick panel on the passenger side, just lift up on the cover and pull off the cover. Find the large wire harness and unwrap enough of the tape to reveal the wires. Find the skinny White wire with a pink stripe. This is the one we will be using. Carefully strip a small piece of insulation off this wire without cutting it. Strip a piece of insulation off the remaining lead from the switch and tightly wrap it around the exposed copper on the White/pink wire. Test your switch, You can solder this connection if you’d like or just tape it up really good.
When finished, rewrap the wire bundle with electrical tape and place it back as it was. Replace the cover and the glove compartment box.
Note that if the switch you chose is too big, the trunk might open sometimes if you slam the glove compartment box or if your knee hits the corner of the glove compartment door
I tightened the jam nuts when i had it the "stock" length. I drove it for a week to let everything settle.
To center it you measure the distance between the edge of the wheel lip and the tire on each side. Then you loosen the jam nuts and turn the adjuster to shorten or lengthen the bar as necessary. Lengthening the bar will shift the body toward the passenger side, shortening the bar will shift the body toward the drivers side. Make small adjustments and measure to see where you are.
To center it you measure the distance between the edge of the wheel lip and the tire on each side. Then you loosen the jam nuts and turn the adjuster to shorten or lengthen the bar as necessary. Lengthening the bar will shift the body toward the passenger side, shortening the bar will shift the body toward the drivers side. Make small adjustments and measure to see where you are.
easy mod to do yourself. I used OEM part# 3W7Z 9B242 AA retail $15.58 or you can use a momentary push button switch (McMaster Carr P/N 6915K22 or Radio Shack Cat # 275-646), and solder two leads to it.
Next, Squeeze the sides of the glove box and it flips down. This will give you access to mount the switch. Drill a hole in the glove compartment box. Note there is a metal bar behind the right side of the glove compartment box. There is one spot that has a hole in it. Drill the hole in the plastic to match up with this hole. My button was 1/2" so I used a uni-bit that went up to 1/2"
Remove the retainer nut from the switch and insert the switch and the leads into the hole. Thread the leads through the nut and onto the switch and tighten the nut up. Next, attach one of the leads to ground. I loosened one of the ground bolts all ready in the glove box and attached the lead to it and retightened.
Next pull off the kick panel on the passenger side, just lift up on the cover and pull off the cover. Find the large wire harness and unwrap enough of the tape to reveal the wires. Find the skinny White wire with a pink stripe. This is the one we will be using. Carefully strip a small piece of insulation off this wire without cutting it. Strip a piece of insulation off the remaining lead from the switch and tightly wrap it around the exposed copper on the White/pink wire. Test your switch, You can solder this connection if you’d like or just tape it up really good.
When finished, rewrap the wire bundle with electrical tape and place it back as it was. Replace the cover and the glove compartment box.
Next, Squeeze the sides of the glove box and it flips down. This will give you access to mount the switch. Drill a hole in the glove compartment box. Note there is a metal bar behind the right side of the glove compartment box. There is one spot that has a hole in it. Drill the hole in the plastic to match up with this hole. My button was 1/2" so I used a uni-bit that went up to 1/2"
Remove the retainer nut from the switch and insert the switch and the leads into the hole. Thread the leads through the nut and onto the switch and tighten the nut up. Next, attach one of the leads to ground. I loosened one of the ground bolts all ready in the glove box and attached the lead to it and retightened.
Next pull off the kick panel on the passenger side, just lift up on the cover and pull off the cover. Find the large wire harness and unwrap enough of the tape to reveal the wires. Find the skinny White wire with a pink stripe. This is the one we will be using. Carefully strip a small piece of insulation off this wire without cutting it. Strip a piece of insulation off the remaining lead from the switch and tightly wrap it around the exposed copper on the White/pink wire. Test your switch, You can solder this connection if you’d like or just tape it up really good.
When finished, rewrap the wire bundle with electrical tape and place it back as it was. Replace the cover and the glove compartment box.
